Tips on making buckskin leggings

[SgtErv]

Hello all. I apologize for the long winded post

So I ordered Mocs from Mr. Morain of Kootenai River Traders. If planned on ordering leggings, but he did me a solid favor and said, "Well, leggings aren't too hard if you can see halfway decently. It'd save you a lot of money." I thought that was nice of him

Read through clothing and craftsman and found some decent info on making a pair of deerskin leggings, but still had some questions. Here's what I think I know...

-German tanned is the best alternative to brain tan (and Crazy Crow has good quality and prices on this.

-Use waxed linen thread

-make a pattern with a more forgiving cloth

-practice sewing leather (I have sewn a buckskin bullet bag and a couple of suede leather items. Also redid the seams on a JAS Townsend short for more authenticity)

Use an awl and a glovers needle, maybe a stich liner wheel.

Questions:

What weight skin should I look for? It gets mighty hot and humid in the Appalachians come summertime.

-do you gents prefer the seam on the inside or out?

Any other tips would be helpful too. Going slow and researching, and asking questions because In haste I already made one mistake that cost me a little bit. (Different topic)

 

[Artificer]

I don't believe German Tan skins come in different thicknesses, other than larger skins come from older animals and would be a bit thicker.
http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?

I would suggest calling/contacting Crazy Crow to see if you can send them a paper pattern to make it easier to choose the hides for you. Not sure if they will do that, but it is worth asking about.

Stitching should go on the outside to be more historically accurate and somewhat to prevent chafing.

Forget about using an overstitch or spacing tool. There is no need to make exact distance between the holes and they did it by eye, anyway. Of course a more experienced leather worker's stitches by eye would look very even.

One thing you SHOULD do is lay the sides together so they are even along their length. Then every four or five inches, awl pierce the leather along the line you are going to stitch. Tie a single loop in these holes that tie both ends together. That way it will hold the sides together and even as you sew along and so you don't have one side longer at the end of your stitching. You just pierce and sew till you get close to the loop, then cut the loop and sew through that hole and pierce and sew towards the next loop until you finish sewing.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

Oh when measuring the distance around your thighs and ankles, make sure you are wearing the breeches and stockings when you take the measurements. Measurements from a bare leg may be too tight. You add 1 1/2 to 2 inches to the measurements when you make the pattern so you can get them on and off your legs.

Not everybody does this on their leggings or trousers, but I always left some extra material to go over the tops of the moccasins, sort of like a spatterdasher or the bottom ends of period Military Leggings or Military overalls, though I never used the strap that went around the bottom of the moccasin or shoe. This helps keep "stuff" out of your moccasins.

Here is a link showing what I mean from Military Overalls. http://www.amazon.com/18th-Century-Military-Overalls-Pattern/dp/B002O7DN2E

This video also shows a similar style of the bottoms of the leggings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSK5tu8q-NM


Gus

 

[George]

Most people make side seam leggings, and leave about 2" beyond the stitching line.

I made mine with front, center seams, and they have worked very well for 16 years.



If you wind up with leather which has a flesh and skin side, it will work better if you put the slick, smooth skin side inside. They will be easier to get off and on, and they will slip and slide as you move, not bind and tighten.

Mine were made of plain buckskin, not brain tanned, works well.

Mid-thigh is a good length if you are going to actually use them in the woods.

With my center seam type, I could cut the lower edge so it fits out over the moccasin just a bit.

Spence

 

[LRB]

Rather than sew loops every so often, you can wrap the leather around your leg, hold it where you want it, and have someone using a clinch type stapler, staple a seam with the staples about every inch. When you have them like you want, leave the staples in and sew them. Remove staples and trim to your liking.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Leggings are very easy to make. First off make sure the style you want to make are HC to the period and tribe you want to replicate.

Most eastern tribes (my area) favored center seam leggings along with side seams. Buckskin should wear tightly to the leg, not overly tight but comfortable.

Your seam should be no more than 1/2" of loose material if you decide to make side seam leggings.

They should not extend anymore than a hand length past your knee and will stop length wise at your ankle.

Lastly use a good waxed linen thread or sinew and you should be good to go!

I personally make and sell leggings, which has left me with approximately a dozen pairs I wear. Constructed properly and worn correctly they are super comfortable and will give you years of good service!

 

[SgtErv]

This is great! Awesome. It definitely feels like a project I can manage. The fort itself has some great resources im sifting through next week. What's available online is pretty general stuff.

I will be getting my linen knee breeches in a couple of weeks, during which time I can practice and perhaps make some rough patterns.

Your all's experience is valuable to me and much appreciated!

 

[tiswell]

I brushed through the other posts so if I missed this I apologize, but make your patterns from the legs of old jeans. Rip out the seams and make a pattern to fit your leg properly and get the length right and the area around your mocs the way that you want. Keep in mind though that jean cloth may have a little more stretch so don't pull it tight when making the pattern. I sewed mine with backstrap sinew and it they are holding up well. Good Luck

 

[George]

Not all NA leggings were made of leather.

Isaac Weld, Travels Through the States Of North America, 1799.
"Above the moccasin all the Indians wear what are called leggings, which reach from the instep to the middle of the thigh. They are commonly made of blue or scarlet cloth, and are formed so as to sit close to the limbs, like the modern pantaloons; but the edges of the cloth annexed to the seam, instead of being turned in, are left on the outside, and are ornamented with beads, ribands [sic], &C., when the leggings are intended for dress. Many of the young warriors are so desirous that their leggings should fit them neatly, that they make the squaws, who are the tailors, and really very good ones, sow [sic] them tight on their limbs, so that they cannot be taken off, and they continue to wear them constantly till they are reduced to rags. The leggings are kept up by means of two strings, one on the outside of each thigh, which are fastened to a third, that is tied around the waist."

Neither were those worn by white men.

Nicholas Cresswell's journal... "Must wear leggings. These are pieces of coarse woollen cloth wrapped round the leg and tied below the knee with a string to prevent the snakes biting you."

John Cuppy, Lyman Draper manuscript”¦ "Spy dress- a handkerchief around the spies head of any color... and thick loose woolen leggings reaching above the knee, so thick that a rattlesnake could not penetrate through with their fangs."

J.F.D Smyth, Tour in the United States of America, 1784, discussing Carolina backwoodsmen..."On their legs they have Indian boots, or leggings, made of coarse woolen cloth, that either are wrapped around loosely and tied with garters, or are laced upon the outside, and always come better than half way up the thigh: these are a great defence and preservative, not only against the bite of serpents and poisonous insects, but likewise against the scratches of thorns, briars, scrubby bushes and underwood, with which this whole country is infested and overspread."
Essay by Moore, Francis, in A Voyage to Georgia, Begun in the Year 1735. London: Jacob Robinson, 1744....“They are not so nimble as some Snakes are, therefore do not remove out of the Way, which is generally the Occasion of Bites when they happen; for they naturally in their own Defence snap at what treads near them.  To prevent this, those who walk the Woods much, wear what they call Indian Boots, which are made of coarse woolen Cloths, much too large for the Legs, tied upon their Thighs and hang loose to their Shoes.”

I've collected references to many different types of leggings, mostly from runaway accounts, mostly cloth.

1738 stocking leggings
1739 old brown leggings and Raggs wrapp’d round ”˜em
1751 brown yarn
1753 white
1756 yarn
1761 blanket
1762 check
1762 check leggings gathered round the knees
1764 dark gray
1764 white
1765 Leather Breeches, Indian leggings, new Boots
1766 old stockings with leggings over them
1766 blue
1766 cotton
1768 blue
1769 check linen
1770 light coloured
1772 old blue ribbed
1772 blue cloth
1772 blackish ribbed
1772 red
1772 blanket
1772 pair of old leggings made of stockings
1772 brown
1773 grey
1775 white cotton
1775 green
1775 linsey
1775 whitish Indian leggings
1775 swanskin leggings over his stockings
1775 cross barred cloth leggings
1776 tow
1776 shirt, drawers and leggings of coarse country linen
1776 hunting shirt and leggings of a light lye colour
1776 linen
1777 white cloth leggings bound with blue tape
1778 linen leggings over his breeches
1780 cloth cloured leggings half way up his thigh
1786 green clothes and red leggings

Spence

 

[Artificer]

I brushed through the other posts so if I missed this I apologize, but make your patterns from the legs of old jeans. Rip out the seams and make a pattern to fit your leg properly and get the length right and the area around your mocs the way that you want. Keep in mind though that jean cloth may have a little more stretch so don't pull it tight when making the pattern. I sewed mine with backstrap sinew and it they are holding up well. Good Luck

The other thing is how tight are the legs of the jeans? The reason I ask is because he plans on wearing these over breeches. The strap and buckle or button/s on each leg might to probably will cause a too tight spot when using jeans as a pattern - unless they are loose fit legs. That's why I suggested measuring over the breeches and stockings he will be wearing under them. Oh, I guess he could try pulling the jeans over his breeches and stockings to see if it would work for a pattern.

Gus

 

[Crewdawg445]

Absolutely correct, I make the majority of mine from wool which I personally prefer more than buckskin.

Very cool reference as well, thanks for sharing.

 

[SgtErv]

I should clarify that My impression is of a mid 1770s frontier Virginia (Monongahela River area). I'll be "stationed" at Prickett's Fort State Park.

Folks at the fort have relied heavily on Doddridge, Smyth, and David Zeisberger. The cheapness and availability of deerskin in the time and place I'm working on guided me to that material.

Is wool a bit cooler in summer? I'd imagine it breathes better. The availability and expense has flip flopped in modern times haha.

Hey a big thank you to everyone. This is very enlightening

 

[Crewdawg445]

For summer... buckskin hands down. Wool does "breath" however it insults far better, it also retains its insulating qualities when wet which is a plus.

For cooler nights, fall and winter I always wear my wool leggings.

Obviously buckskin is more durable and wears better in thick brush. IMO, go with the bucks as you won't be disappointed.

 

[Artificer]

Spence,

Your center seam leggings look VERY nice. I like the way the center seam design of the mocassins flows into the center seam of the leggings.

Gus

 

[SgtErv]

Ok. I was wondering how hot the wool would get. I had heat exhaustion once in the Army and besides keeping well hydrated, I have to take measures to stay cool. Even if an article doesn't breathe much, as long as it's light and somewhat loose I'll be ok.

Most of my time in persona will be April-October. I want to make them a little looser for wool stockings underneath, also sent my foot tracing with socks on. Mark Morain walked me through that.

And yes, Spence, those look awesome! Exactly the look Im going for.

While at the fort part of my volunteering as a historical interpreter is working on things like mending clothes and such. If I were to make some wool leggings for fall use that'd be great with the director.

You guys are great. I've learned so much here!

 

[George]

Most eastern tribes (my area) favored center seam leggings along with side seams.

I don't remember that opinion having been expressed before. In fact, I think there is considerable opinion that side seams were the usual way. I decided that was the case in at least some tribes, based on a drawing I found of Cherokees. These are three Cherokees who visited London 1762:





Do you have additional documentation for this idea?

Spence

 

[Silky921]

How much square feet do you need total or per leg of buckskin?

 

[tenngun]

We see this in paintings and drawing of Indians at the same time. Cloth and often different colored cloth for each leg was common....Why?
Economics would sugest that buckskin would be cheaper and wear better. on the other hand you could sell a deer skin for more then the cost of the cloth(?).
Wealth display? 'I am such a good hunter or warrior I can afford cloth"(?)
Comfort, even the best buckskin aint as nice as cloth
Looks nice...(young girl talking to young warrior...'Oh Black Knife, you look soooo good in red leggings")

 

[Artificer]

I am not an expert on 18th century wool cloth, but I do know it came in MANY more thicknesses, naps, textures, etc., than we are familiar with today. This because wool was so much tougher and longer lasting than most other commonly available cloths, right up to and through the UnCivil War.

Here is a link that shows just some of the different types of wool broadcloth, worsted and flannels available in the 18th century, though there were more than even he carries: http://www.wmboothdraper.com/

I have a thin woolen weskit that I can wear for all but June through August in the heat and humidity of Virginia. Sorry, I forgot what the correct name was for the cloth.

People back then also got used to wearing acclimatizing to wearing wool cloth, because it was so tough.

Now of course I do not want to set anyone up for heat exhaustion or stroke, but it often is not as bad as one might think except in the three main summer months.

Gus

 

[tenngun]

Near east and far east are full of folks that wear woolens all summer long and in hot summers. Insulators that keep heat in also keep heat out.