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joeinnh9

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Hi,newbie on the site,but I have been lurking in the inky shadows for along time.I have piece of steel 5.25"h.x4.50 dia.[recipe unknown].No lathe work ,just a piece of steel with a hole drilled for the bore and fuse.This will be for NOISE only no projectile.Anyone have any idea what the bore should be and how deep.I'm thinking a7/8" bore and 3" deep.Anyone see a problem with this? I am open to all suggestions.
Thank you for your help
 
if it is a good steel for stuff that goes boom (1018, 4140 etc.) you could go to 1.5" bore that is 3.75" deep and keep to the bore=1/3 of the total dia.
 
With unknown steel, hold it to a grinder and look at the sparks . If they're long and straight, it's probably mild steel. If you have a flashy spark (like fourth of July sparklers) it's some kind of high carbon steel. BEWARE, high carbon steel is potentially brittle, think hand grenade. Mild steel is probably 1018 or similar, MAYBE ok. One inch of bore diameter will rattle the ears off a wooden jackass, trust me. Safety first. Good luck with your thunder mug, they are awesome. Treestalker.
 
If the material can be easily cut with a file it probably isn't brittle even if it is high carbon steel.

As for keeping a sufficient wall thickness, I'm in total agreement.

When building something that is going to fire a black powder charge it's a good idea to lean towards a safe design that could launch a projectile.

I say this, even if it is only designed as a noise maker because years from now the person that has it won't know it was only good for making noise.

We don't want them to learn this after they have tried to fire something downrange.
 
freekforge said:
if it is a good steel for stuff that goes boom (1018, 4140 etc.) you could go to 1.5" bore that is 3.75" deep and keep to the bore=1/3 of the total dia.

You forget 12L14?
 
Here's some advice from my own experience. Don't make the hole too big. 7/8 or even 3/4 X 3" deep is plenty to go boom. Any bigger and you will need to use a LOT of powder everytime you fire that mutha' up. I/we use 4F. It really doesn't take a lot to make the ground shake. Also worth mentioning: Have a piece of plywood or other type of covering over the powder/muzzle while lighting the fuse. Fire the fuse then remove the cover then stand back a good distance and watch for the curious bystanders too.
 
In researching german thunder mugs (standboller) i see that they predominantly use a lock mechanism and long pull cord. some of the locks use 209 primers. I am going to fit such ignition devises to mine.
 
what you can do is use a slap hammer(like what Dixie has). then cut and thread for a musket nipple that way you can use musket caps. I se alot of mt. howitzers use them. My soon to be swivel gun will be operated that way.
 
My 1999 catalog from South Bend Replicas (formerly Barney's Cannons) show two models he offered. One has a 1 1/4" bore, the other a 2 1/4". I'm sure both are capable of waking up the neighboring county. :shocked2: Of course, his most popular model was aluminum and holds a beer can. :grin:
 
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