Thoughts on removal of stamping on traditions barrels?

[Eric Krewson]

I took the logo off a GM barrel, the punch method, it took about 10 minutes before draw filing. Looks like burnishing is a lost cause.

Here is the finished result, the logo was an inch or so forward of the touchhole liner. I struggled to fit the breechplug, when I finally got it perfect the logo was on the side flat, I didn't want to advance the tang two more flats so I stopped where I was and removed the logo.

 

[jonathan butcher]

What grit emory paper did you use to smooth it all out ?

I took the logo off a GM barrel, the punch method, it took about 10 minutes before draw filing. Looks like burnishing is a lost cause.

Here is the finished result, the logo was an inch or so forward of the touchhole liner. I struggled to fit the breechplug, when I finally got it perfect the logo was on the side flat, I didn't want to advance the tang two more flats so I stopped where I was and removed the logo.
View attachment 66446

 

[gustrolland]

They are stamped or rolled in, displacing the metal. You can very carefully pean the metal down and file it smooth. In all likelihood it will leave some thin lines where the gap isn't completely filled. At least it did for me.
Good luck!
Robby

Peening is what I was taught by a master builder, and he had a tool he made just to do that job.

 

[jonathan butcher]

I ordered an 80z ball peen hammer from Amazon yesterday, hopefully it'll arrive today, will try the peening method on the other side of the barrel.

Peening is what I was taught by a master builder, and he had a tool he made just to do that job.

 

[Are. M.]

It wasn't difficult to draw file the lettering off this newer model trapper pistol. It took a little bit of work, but it was manageable. No need to peen the letters down because they looked more laser etched than rolled or stamped.

RM

 

[tallpine]

I draw filed the lettering off of two Traditions barrels, peening was not necessary. I used a new single cut file, it went fast, after rust bluing there was no trace of it ever being stamped. I used an electro- pencil and wrote the serial number on the bottom of the barrel.To me all that lettering was an eyesore, it had to go.

 

[jerrywh]

I am a professional engraver and sometimes have to remove stamping such as this.
Draw filing is one way but often it is not the best way because on a nice gun people can detect the difference in the barrel profile. Tig welding is another method but most of you don't have a tig welder or the ability. Another method I often use is to fill the letters with iron inlays. This would not be possible for most muzzleloading builders because you almost need a microscope to do that and the knowledge. Most muzzleloading guns are not worth the expense of hiring it done so you are left with draw filing. Hold the file at an angle to the work and don't apply too much pressure. Too much pressure will cause the file to load up and scratch the barrel. Filing with light pressure on the return stroke will help reduce the loading of the teeth. I don't recommend chalk. One more option, Replace the barrel.

 

[jonathan butcher]

After a 6hr trial run I finally got both sides of the barrel clear and ready for final polishing tomorrow before a vinegar dunking followed by a cold blue/ brown finish. This was a lot harder than I anticipated, due no doubt to my inexperience. I started with just burnishing the panel with a ball peen hammer (right side) and that took 4hrs and two cramped hands!

The opposite side you see below ( saftey warning) I decided to combine burnishing, draw filing ( sort of) and a low grit sandpaper. This actually worked very well and only took 2hrs. I think one of the things which made it so difficult was the 3" barrel; three inches does not allow much maneuvering for draw fuiling so instead I used several small files to accomplish the same thing. I'll fine polish both sides tomorrow with emory paper tomorrow and post progress pics.

 

[S.Kenton]

Make sure before you do a vinegar dunking that you protect the bore of the barrel... you don’t want vinegar to get into the bore.

 

[jonathan butcher]

Absolutely. And the cylinder chambers too for that matter. That part of the operation I have experience with, I use earplugs with bore butter inside the bore.

Make sure before you do a vinegar dunking that you protect the bore of the barrel... you don’t want vinegar to get into the bore.

 

[GregCSarver]

Like polishing a turd.

 

[jonathan butcher]

?

Like polishing a turd.

 

[Whitworth]

One of the reasons I like the older repo guns, they weren't so stamp crazy. Passed on a new Pocket Remington because all the stampings on that little barrel were nothing short of defacement. Every time I tried to look by them they just stood out worse. YMMV

 

[Zonie]

After a 6hr trial run I finally got both sides of the barrel clear and ready for final polishing tomorrow before a vinegar dunking followed by a cold blue/ brown finish. This was a lot harder than I anticipated, due no doubt to my inexperience. I started with just burnishing the panel with a ball peen hammer (right side) and that took 4hrs and two cramped hands!

The opposite side you see below ( saftey warning) I decided to combine burnishing, draw filing ( sort of) and a low grit sandpaper. This actually worked very well and only took 2hrs. I think one of the things which made it so difficult was the 3" barrel; three inches does not allow much maneuvering for draw fuiling so instead I used several small files to accomplish the same thing. I'll fine polish both sides tomorrow with emory paper tomorrow and post progress pics.

All of those little scratches and gouges will stick out like a sore thumb if you don't remove them before you polish the side of the barrel shown in this picture I borrowed from your earlier post. Even a hairline scratch will show so, IMO, your work is far from ready for final bluing

 

[jonathan butcher]

Yes. It took another 2hrs of wet/ dry sand paper and fine steel wool to arrive at the blue removal stage, which I may do tomorrow or the next day. Then a final check and only then, re-blue. All rough scratches and marks are now gone.

All of those little scratches and gouges will stick out like a sore thumb if you don't remove them before you polish the side of the barrel shown in this picture I borrowed from your earlier post. Even a hairline scratch will show so, IMO, your work is far from ready for final bluing

View attachment 66675

 

[Eric Krewson]

In the barrel I posted above I only went as far as 220 grit because I browned the barrel.

 

[Pittranger]

Thanks for all the input! great ideas. My thught was to draw file might head down that path again Thanks!!

 

[Eutycus]

I'll have to re-read this thread later, but I would think any kind of filing would mean removing metal.

 

[FishDFly]

Yep, when you file, you are removing metal. Think they are called file shavings.

 

[Dave Dworshak]

600 grit and a sander. I took it down in a couple minutes. smooth as glass. Just left enough to read the numbers and letters.