Thoughts on removal of stamping on traditions barrels?

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Pittranger

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Received a traditions flint pistol kit and was amazed at the amount of lettering on the barrel. Anyone have experience removing these? or is it not recommended? My other builds were with individual components and not a "kit" so never encountered this issue. Thanks
 

gunnyr

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Received a traditions flint pistol kit and was amazed at the amount of lettering on the barrel. Anyone have experience removing these? or is it not recommended? My other builds were with individual components and not a "kit" so never encountered this issue. Thanks
Pittranger , I believe I would leave all markings on the barrel, who knows down the road you or someone if
You sell it may need parts. It would be easier to ID the correct parts. Just my view point.
Gunnyr
 

rafterob

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The tradition's stampings are pretty deep so it is best not to try to remove them. It would take a lot of filing. I have done a couple older import barrels from the '70's but the stampings were just barely in the metal. Draw filing is how you remove it, then refinish the barrel.
 

Spikebuck

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The tradition's stampings are pretty deep so it is best not to try to remove them.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
To me, this would be the key.

I rebuilt a Pedersoli and all the legalize and identification stamping was not very deep. I draw filed it off then simply stamped the caliber on the bottom flat for any future reference needed.
 

Robby

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They are stamped or rolled in, displacing the metal. You can very carefully pean the metal down and file it smooth. In all likelihood it will leave some thin lines where the gap isn't completely filled. At least it did for me.
Good luck!
Robby
 

S.Kenton

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I’ve done lots of defarbing. Now, when I defarb, im not trying to make this rifle or pistol somthing it’s not, rather I’m trying to make it somthing that I like. I simply, but carefully grab a large punch and tap the lettering and around the lettering to displace the metal. Then I file a little bit and am done. My thoughts are; do what makes you happy and looks good to your eye.
 

toot

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it is still going to be a reproduction no matter what you do to it? don't like the stamping pass on it, get a real deal one?
 

toot

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I must admit that on MILL. SURP GUNS, that the importer's stamping is excessive, it is called, BILL BOARD STAMPING. I wonder if that will be next on our BP. weapons? now that would make me get the file out! so I have to agree with the dilemma.
 

jonathan butcher

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I just ordered an 8oz ball peen hammer for the same purpose. I tried burnishing ( a hard steel bar, harder than the barrel metal to try to rub it out) but after 6hrs I think that approach would take a year.
Any insights you care to share would be greatly appreciated, I'm in the same spot as the OP and I can't stand the BILLBOARD-ing.

I’ve done lots of defarbing. Now, when I defarb, im not trying to make this rifle or pistol somthing it’s not, rather I’m trying to make it somthing that I like. I simply, but carefully grab a large punch and tap the lettering and around the lettering to displace the metal. Then I file a little bit and am done. My thoughts are; do what makes you happy and looks good to your eye.
 

EC121

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Lay the mill file on the barrel flat and "draw" it toward you or push it away. I do better drawing. Lift the file on the return stroke. When you get the stroke right, you can feel the file cut. Keep the cut metal out of the file teeth or it will scratch the barrel. Practice on t he bottom flat first.
 
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jonathan butcher

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I found this vid which is pretty clear, though on a small barrel area like the one above which file would you use ? The same size as he's using in the vid ?


Lay the mill file on the barrel flat and "draw" it toward you or push it away. I do better drawing. Lift the file on the return stroke. When you get the stroke right, you can feel the file cut. Keep the cut metal out of the file teeth or it will scratch the barrel. Prctice on t he bottom flat first.
 

S.Kenton

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I would simply find a medium sized punch, using the flat area of the punch, cover the letter or as much of it as possible and gently tap with a small hammer. You’ll notice the lettering start to “ smash” keep doing that around the letter and on the lettering. I would support the barrel from under neath, as to stop the rocking motion while being tapped. Then after that, Lightly use a metal To smooth it out. I’ve done this a lot, it works. I’ve never done it it on a revolver, yet. I say. “Yet” because I just got an 1860 colt army and will be “ aging” it lighty
 

RAEDWALD

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Just a brief reminder to non USA readers that these stamping include the Spanish proof marks and removal in some countries render the arm illegal or require reproofing before resale at least.
 

jonathan butcher

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Thught I'd post a picture of my progress, this represents about 4+ hours of burnishing, done in 20min installments. Any more than that and your hand cramps.. As you can see the barrel warning is beginning to fade but the process is extremely slow, I calculate about 5-6hrs per side using the burnishing technique. I may try the ball peen hammer method for the other side.

 

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