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Thompson Center Muzzle Loader Kit

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Joined
Jan 2, 2007
Messages
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Location
Tupelo, MS
I was gifted a Thompson Center 50 caliber Hawken kit last week. It appears that someone has completed most of the stock work except for the finish. It is walnut. The barrel is still in the white. All of the brass furniture except for the trigger guard has been polished. I think I have all the parts to finish it short of the ramrod dowel. It did come with a set of instructions which includes the parts list, but they are a little vague. I was thinking there may be more instructions than what I currently have. Has anyone had any experience putting one of these kits together? I may have some questions as I get started.
 
Yep, me, you have an older kit if the barrel isn't blued. Mine was much rougher than the later kits but made a nice gun with some work. I took a lot of wood off the stock to slenderize it, particularly the cheek piece.

TC kit box.JPG



TC hawken start 003.JPG


TC cheek side.JPG


TC lock side.JPG
 
Great. I see you are also not to far from me. I live in Tupelo and work in Fulton. Once I get started on working on it, I will send you some photos with my questions. It will probably be in January since December will be a busy month. Thank you for your reply.
 
There is almost always more wood to take off!

My first ML was a TC kit. My FiL helped me assemble it, he is quite the machinist and wood worker.

I used the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown on the barrel after I draw filed it, and would never use it again. Laurel Mtn Forge or equiv cold brown is nicer, and since you live in a place with humidity you will have no problem getting a nice brown.

To me, the one feature I like least is the nosecap. You might want to look into pouring a pewter cap if you feel brave. But you can do that later.

Back to my first sentence - gently blending the forearm and nosecap to the barrel improves the looks (those flats along the barrel just ain't right) and is a simple step. The wrist can almost always be reduced some.

But most important is don't stress on it, take your time and enjoy the process. Take it out and shoot it and have fun! Pretty soon, you'll be saving for a Kibler, and after that you'll be scratch building! Enjoy it every single bit!

David
NM
 
Another thing I did was to inlet the brass parts flush with the wood instead of standing proud. I inletted the trigger guard down some but not flush. I rounded the wrist and forearm some and lowered the wood alongside the barrel to half a flat and with a 1/16" edge along the barrel. I defined the lock and side plate moldings as well.

Because TCs are factory guns I blued the barrel instead of browning it, in my opinion TCs are just too far from being historically correct to brown the barrel and have it look good with a TC lock plate and sights.

Here is the lock molding when I finished shaping it.

lock panels 003.JPG
 
My first muzzler was a Renegade kit and like david58, I will never use BC plumb brown ever again. And like Eric I rounded the fore-arm, filed down & fully inlet the wedge escutcheons, And though my lock moulding didn't come out quite as nice as his I removed quite a bit of wood around it & block sanded it & the flat panel opposite to keep the edges nice & crisp. Stained the stock with alternate coats of Birchwood Casey walnut & colonial maple stains. Not because it needed it but, just because I like darker, redder walnut wood.
 
I have used birchwood casey plum brown on two barrels with good results and just wondering why you would not use it again what went wrong
 
I plum browned my TC Hawkin kit back in the 80's and it came out really well. Heating the barrel to proper temperature for the browning was the most nerve wracking part. Polishing the barrel was important to get done too. I still have the rifle.
 
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