• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

This may sound stupid!

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
For my first scratch build I got all the parts together and the touchhole drilled a little ahead of the breach plug. With parts in hand I laid them all together and from measuring and "figgerin" I was able to draw a full scale drawing on a piece of meat wrapping paper. I was told that if I could draw it I could build it. It came out very well and after over 40 years the rifle still fits. It's too heavy for me to hold up anymore but that has nothing to do with your question. Find the length of pull, drop at comb and heal, length of grip area, etc. by trying different rifles and go from there. If you can't draw it you may run into problems.
 
Last edited:
I got my copy of, The Hawken Rifle - Its Evolution from 1822-1870 from the NMLRA site yesterday in the mail. That is going to be a great help with this upcoming build. It is hardbound approximately 3/4" thick. With good color photos and loaded with information! Well worth the money! So begins all of my research in earnest to develop my rifle!
 
As I see it, @EC121, has provided the basis for setting you, @50cal.cliff, up for a good build. As I recall, the order of build is presented in your book. The simple steps have been laid out. We haven't talked bout differences is assembly due to the type of breech and method of ignition. These details make subtle changes.

What rifle are you planning to build? It sounds like a Hawken Rifle. There are subtleties in the installation of the barrel, hooked breech, lock and triggers that differ from that process in a Pennsylvania rifle. You might want to try to contact the members of Escambia River Muzzle Loaders to see if you can get some local help.
 
For my first scratch build I got all the parts together and the touchhole drilled a little ahead of the breach plug. With parts in hand I laid them all together and from measuring and "figgerin" I was able to draw a full scale drawing on a piece of meat wrapping paper. I was told that if I could draw it I could build it. It came out very well and after over 40 years the rifle still fits. It's too heavy for me to hold up anymore but that has nothing to do with your question. Find the length of pull, drop at comb and heal, length of grip area, etc. by trying different rifles and go from there. If you can't draw it you may run into problems.
Well I am in trouble! Only thing I can draw is flies and trouble!
Maybe I can find someone to finish mine before I die!:ghostly:
 
I doubt that you're in trouble. It was actually fun to lay out all the parts on paper and then trace the outlines. If you give it a try you'll probably find that it will save a lot of time, frustration, and hair pulling when you get to the real build. I started with the barrel and touchhole laid out on paper. From there the lock could be located correctly in relation to the touchhole, followed by the trigger and then the length of pull, drop, ramrod clearance for pin locations and so on. Then you can draw the final shape of the wood. After the drawing is done you can hang it on the wall and stare at it for a few days. It's a lot better to find something you don't like about the way it looks then than when the final product is hanging on the wall. It's best not to drill the touchhole until the lock is in the wood just to allow for any small differences. I should mention that when I did all this there was no such thing as the internet and no forums like this to help out.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top