• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

This isn't supposed to happen, right?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Had a brush come loose in a fast twist forty bore round about 2008-2009 or so.
3/8" brass tubing fixed it.

While good quality brushes were part of the standard kit for target shooters in the 1800's, in the 2000's we have modern brushes, the kind that come apart two and a half feet away from day light. Because lead will try to streak in the corners of rifling grooves in target rifles such as "Volunteers" and combustion products will be retained beneath the lead and cause corrosion, brushes are good to have. If you find good quality brushes that won't come apart and are the right size for your piece, best buy the lifetime supply while you can.
 
I use only NYLON bore brushes. they will allays reverse when you pull them out! brass will jam and pull out very hard with a lot of resistance when you try to reverse it.
 
A very high percentage of the N-SSA shooters use brushes and incidents of stuck brushes are extremely rare. The usual procedure when coming off the line is to take the cleaning rod and brush and run it down the barrel. Invert the piece, muzzle down, and run the brush in and out. The fouling falls to the ground and it can be surprising how much will come out. This leaves some fouling behind so you don't start the next event with a clean bore and need a fouling shot and removes enough to eliminate loading and accuracy problems. Of course a good lube is very important too. The same procedure is used for rifle-musket, smoothbore and carbines.
 
Had this to happen......once. Luckily l had a patch around the brush that sealed the bore good enough for the grease gun to push it out. Now if l need to deep clean l use an undersize jag and steel wool or scotchbrite.
 
I occasionally use a brush and never get it stuck. All I do is twist the rod clockwise a little to release the bristles and it pulls right out with no problem. Using a looped brush instead of a crimped one is a great idea.
 
Would fine steel wool or copper wool be safe for rifling? Read of it's use in smoothbores.
I know folks use copper wool or chore boy to remove lead from the rifling in modern guns. My only concern would be some of it coming off and getting stuck near the breech but then again it would probably just shoot out with your next load.
 
Take the zerk out, put a cleaning patch on a jag and slowly run it down the bore. The grease will push back out. Repeat with a solvent soaked patch a few times then clean as per normal.
Walk
 
I know folks use copper wool or chore boy to remove lead from the rifling in modern guns. My only concern would be some of it coming off and getting stuck near the breech but then again it would probably just shoot out with your next load.
Patch puller. Been there.....
 
It's rare that I ever use a brush, and they're nylon too. More likely I use a piece of ScotchBright which works fine.
 
Dont think Ive ever put a wire brush down the pipe.
We use nothing but TC 1000+ products and a jag with swabs.
I bought a Ruger 3 screw that had sat behind a toilet for 25 years. It had a cleaning brush stick in the cylinder and barrel. A single action to boot.
That was a fun job.
 
Had a brush come loose in a fast twist forty bore round about 2008-2009 or so.
3/8" brass tubing fixed it.

While good quality brushes were part of the standard kit for target shooters in the 1800's, in the 2000's we have modern brushes, the kind that come apart two and a half feet away from day light. Because lead will try to streak in the corners of rifling grooves in target rifles such as "Volunteers" and combustion products will be retained beneath the lead and cause corrosion, brushes are good to have. If you find good quality brushes that won't come apart and are the right size for your piece, best buy the lifetime supply while you can.
I’m testing a new (to me) lube for bullets. It’s the standard SPG lube with one small container of Stihl HP synthetic chainsaw oil added. So far I have seen no leading from 420 grain bullets in .50 caliber at velocities up to 1370 fps. I’ve only fired 20 such loads but it’s encouraging.
 
Last edited:
Never saw the need for putting a brush down the barrel of a muzzleloader. I was told when I made my first rifle, don't use a brush. The guy that was helping me knew I was from a shooting background and shot a lot of competition. I have never used a brush on any of them in 46 years. A good jag and some cleaning patches with the Moose Milk cleaner/patch lube I make has always cleaned my barrels . I did make a scraper for the breech plug end on one barrel/ rifle I made because there was a very small amount of room behind the touch hole to the breech face and I would scrap it usually after a 3 or 4 day match where I might shoot 200 or so rounds.
Don't use a Brush!

Mike
 

Latest posts

Back
Top