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the set trigger

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All my BP rifles have set triggers except one. I've found that Iike the single trigger best. What would be the best way to negate the set trigger. I don't like pulling two triggers and with some arthritis and loss of feeling in the fingers I have trouble feeling the trigger when it is set. Had a couple of unwanted discharges for lack of feeling. I like about a four pound trigger.
 
You didn’t say what type of set triggers you have but if they’re double set then just use the front trigger and disregard the rear trigger.
 
Have you considered an adjustable set trigger as a replacement for the current set trigger, and then adjusting the new trigger assembly to give you a nice, crisp pull of 4 lbs. ??

LD
I don't think I've ever seen a adjustable double set trigger that could be adjusted to get a 4 pound let off. Any clues as to where I could find one?

All of the double set triggers I've used when building muzzleloaders do have an adjustment screw between the triggers but that screw only adjusts the amount of engagement between the front triggers catch and the rear triggers latch. In other words, it changes the distance the front trigger has to move before the rear trigger is released but the actual amount of force to move the front trigger the extra distance is only maybe 1 ounce or two.

If the triggers are double set, double lever triggers like most are, the gun can be cocked and fired without setting the triggers by just using the front trigger. The problem with these is, the pivot for the front trigger is almost always too far forward when they are installed. That results in a fairly heavy trigger pull to get the front trigger to fire the gun.

Sometimes it is possible to move a double set double lever trigger rearward to move the front trigger pivot closer to the sear but when this is done to a finished gun it usually leaves a large gap between the front of the trigger plate and the front of the old mortise.
Same gap problem with removing the double set trigger and installing a new single trigger. The mortise for a set trigger is usually much longer than a single trigger mortise.
 
Yes and the trigger guard for double triggers is longer too. A single simple trigger (mounted to a base plate) could be installed easily enough (it would take a while), but it would look sort of goofy in that trigger guard all by itself. DADST's are going to be your solution and you can ignore the set trigger function by just installing and setting the distance for use as a simple trigger. That may or may not involve having to move the trigger guard.

It depends on the trigger blade set up for how it's going to affect things (set and simple). If both the set trigger blade and simple trigger blade are hinged on the same point moving the sear bar forward may not give you enough force to trip it with the set trigger. If it's a scissors set up then it will work even better. Just set your vertical distance to be right at the point that the spring is fully unloaded so as to have maximum force with it. You could even add some mass to the blade with soldering on some additional metal.

My last build I put in a double action single set trigger. That was a real chore and the Davis unit was not a very good one. (The trigger was very wobbly and rattly, and I hate that. I wouldn't buy one of those ever again,) Anyhoo, I set the distance for the blades so that I had 100% reliability with the set trigger when used, and as far forward as possible so as to make the un-set pull to be as light as possible. I made a sort of a Rueb Goldberg jig with my vices to do the experiments.
trigger jig.jpg
 
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To get a little more vertical clearance (make the stock less deep) I filed the simple trigger blade as thin as possible (being careful not to get it thinner than the set trigger blade) and heated and put an upwards bend in the sear bar too. You have to be careful doing this heating or else you can destroy the temper where it engages the tumbler.
sear bar bend.jpg
 
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