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the combo rifle/smooth bore

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Joined
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On the Border in Idaho looking at BC
finally have the gun in my trembling hands! i got it about noon yesterday and had it completely disassembled by three Oclock. the lock was so gummed up it wouldn't hold on cock, but would on half cock.
took the lock apart and cleaned it. gently. then i polished off the rust only on the actual bearing/rubbing areas. cleaned a spoonfull of crud out of the full cock notch and got the fly working.
i may make a new tumbler or i may make a insert for the axel as there is considerable wear there. i may just splash coat the axel with babbit and use it as it is.
anyway i built what i envisioned was what what was needed to fire the smooth bore/lower barrel. works like it was meant to!
there is much evidence of past repairs or sloppy techniques as far as soldiering goes. lots of soldier where it is hidden by the ramrod.
here is a picture of the hammer extension i made. i think there was a flat spring on the back side of the hammer to push the nose out to align it with the bottom nipple. with both nipples capped, it fires the top cap, then with the top fired cap removed it will fire the bottom cap. slick setup.
the cotter pin is temporary, i need to make a pin with a flared head tomorrow to replace the cotter. both # 11 and # 10 caps fit the nipples.
the rifled bore has good rifling in it but plenty of rust. doesn't appear to have any real pits though. the smooth bore has lots of rust and a couple suspected pits.
the rifle bore is .335 and the smooth bore is .532.
of course both barrels are 30 inches long.
the rifled barrel is .910 at the breech and reverse tapers to .921 at the muzzle!
the smooth bore barrel is .948 at the breech, octagonal, tapers to .875 10 1/2 inches long with a wedding ring, then round with a diameter of .854 at the wedding ring, tapering to .785 at the muzzle.
i also straightened the ram rod . it is hickory with a bugle on the muzzle end and a brass pinned ball screw covered by a threaded extension at the breech end. breech end. will be posting more pictures as this progresses.
 

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This is a really cool piece and I’ve been waiting for you to get it in hand and give us a review. I have a question about the firing mechanism for the bottom barrel. If I understand correctly you’re telling us that if both nipples are capped it’ll always fire the top barrel first. Since the firing stud for the bottom barrel has a swivel in it wouldn’t it be likely that it should be slightly longer so that you can cap both nipples and use the swivel as a selector for which barrel to fire? You know, folded out shoots the top and folded down shoots the bottom?
 
Stykbow, it is very possible that is the way it worked. on the breech side of the hammer is a slot running down to the swiveled part. don't know exactly what to call that piece. either doohickey or barrel selector!:D
in the slot is the remains of what looks like a flat spring. possibly it was to drop a tab into the top of the doohickey or into the side, therby holding it either in the fire position or in the no fire position. it took me all of 15 minutes to make the current doohickey, so i can make one with the notches in no time too. just have to work up the nerve to try driving the little remains of the flat spring out, then trying to visualize its configuration. i have to work on my fowler too and this gun has set a hook in me.
i have a friend that has a machine shop with a cnc thingy and i am going to have him make up a couple breech blocks and plugs. this configuration would be a wonderful combo in say .40 over .410. or even .54 over .54.
tomorrow i will post a bunch of pictures of all the metal in a broke down view.
 
scrubbed both barrels until i had dishpan hands today.
have about 1/3 of the top barrel down to metal and good exposure of lands the rest of the way. have to fight the urge to fire it. cleaning with it in current condition would be a nightmare.
bottom barrel is about half way cleaned up.
i discovered that the first part of the barrel, the octagonal part is rifled! it appears as if the octagonal and round parts were welded at the wedding ring! i can barely see the joint inside the barrel.
my bore scope is a pos but i will try to get some pictures with it.
 
Have you tried Numrich Arms or Midway USA for your replacement parts ? Maybe the Log Cabin shop or Dixie gun works ? Just a thought...
gunpartscorp doesn't have anything like this. Midway doesn't either. this gun is such a one off any parts will be hand made.
i haven't done much with it lately, up to my ears in a couple builds.
i need to refresh my assessment of it and shoot the thing.
 
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