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That funny forearm thingy?

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longcruise

70 Cal.
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I'm going to do a cva Kentucky rifle kit this winter. It's the same as the Traditions Kentucky rifle. This is the one that has the brass divider in the forearm where two pieces of the stock are joined.

What are the thoughts on how to join the two pieces? There are two steel pins that pass through the brass separator and into each of the two stock pieces. I'm leaning toward a permanent epoxied joint since a takedown stock has no appeal.
 
When joining gunstock wood pieces, I like to make some sawdust from the wood under the butt plate, then mix the sawdust into the joining epoxy, so the joint is virtually invisible when finished.

I would further use the steel pins in the epoxied joint (the pin holes may need to be deepened to allow for the lack of the brass divider).
 
If a person uses epoxy to fill the joint they should remember, epoxy does not take a stain.
Unless the blond wood these guns are made from is what the builder wants to end up with when he's finished, there is no way to get an epoxied joint to blend in with the wood around it.

Speaking of stain, the stock is made out of Beech wood. It is notorious for not "taking" oil based stains so, something like Minwax or other oil base stains should never be used on it.
A water based or alcohol based stain usually works quite well on Beech wood. For instance, the stock on this CVA double barrel shotgun was stained with Birchwood Casey "Walnut" stain.
CVA-SHOTGUN-003web.jpg


As for the brass shim between the two pieces of stock on the OP's gun goes, there's an old rule about hiding things on a project. You can try to hide it by making it as small as possible and hope it blends in or you can celebrate it by making it seem to be intentional. CVA chose to try to celebrate it.

Before someone jumps in and says, "No gun in the old days looked like that", they should take a look at "Old Sally". That was one of mountain man, Joe Meek's favorite guns.
OLD-SALLY-web.jpg
 
FYI: If you remove the brass filler on the CVA Kentucky, you will cause a misalignment on the nosecap attachment screw. The nosecap screw hole will have to be slotted. Not a big deal. Just look before you leap.
 
@EC121 I see what you mean. FWIW, I don't plan to delete the plate. Mostly wondering about the joining process. I think they designed it with the two piece to make packaging and shipping simpler and cheaper.
 
I'm going to do a cva Kentucky rifle kit this winter. It's the same as the Traditions Kentucky rifle. This is the one that has the brass divider in the forearm where two pieces of the stock are joined.

What are the thoughts on how to join the two pieces? There are two steel pins that pass through the brass separator and into each of the two stock pieces. I'm leaning toward a permanent epoxied joint since a takedown stock has no appeal.
I have extended stocks on 100+ year old MILSUP rifles that have been sporterized by an unknown Bubba, but the joint was always hidden under a band of steel. Threaded rods and epoxy. With a CVA two piece you can hide the joint/plate under a faux repair, but everyone knows the CVA is a two piece stock. Enjoy enjoy it for what it is. Or replace the stock. Then you may as well replace the lock and the trigger...... the barrels have typically shot very well.
 
You might be able to sort of hide the joint by using another piece of wood to fill the gap from the brass spacer. Just get something close to the color you hope to achieve when you stain the stock.
 
I did one once by removing spacer and cast brass nosecap and installing a mailorder sheet metal cap nosecap. I used the rods to epoxy the pieces together. Then I shaped the wood to match the cap. BUT I got the kit for $25, and assembled it just for the fun of it. Sold it for $50 6mos. later. If it was designed that way to save money, why didn't they just leave the brass out and use dowels and glue to align things. I never saw the purpose of the brass. Maybe some spaniard saw the original Zonie shows.
 
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Here are photos of original raw hide repairs. The sights on the CVA are pretty tall and can easily see over a wrap on your fore stock.
Dog bone rawhide sold in pet sections make great raw hide wraps this can cover up your joint real well.
4D345B5A-3E3F-4255-9B6C-B099765EAA0E.jpeg
 
Brown epoxie dye is available from Brownell's gunsmithing Supply. It dyes all clear epoxie's from any source. Take out the brass whatchamacallit joining the forearm to the rest of the stock and cut a piece of hardwood the same thickness of the brass thing . Use the brass piece as a template , so the piece of filler wood will fit the octagon of the barrel . You can use two cut off thin drywall screws or ribbed paneling nails for your permanent glue joint. Remove the forearm piece for later. Pop out the wedge loose and slide a 5" by 5" piece of cling wrap or better , a same size sheet of grocery bag so the epoxie doesn't adhere to the barrel when gluing the hardwood inset in place . Reinstall the wedge in the butt stock to trap the plastic sheet in place. Glue the inset is in place. Next day once the epoxie is hard , drill the holes for the pins , and loosely install the pins into mating holes in the forearm piece. Clean up the excess glue so the pieces fit properly . Replace the shopping bag plastic if it gets soiled w/ the glue and changes the fit of the wood pieces. Glue and clamp the forearm in place ,the front forearm brass piece should fit if the wood was well well fitted . Careful filing , sanding , stain and finish is up to you.........good luck .............oldwood
 
years ago people used to PUKE on CVA. SHOTGUNS. now they are bringing north of $ 600.00. with out a problem. they even sell on GUN BROKER. who would ever think that?
 
CVA locks not so great, authenticity no way, but CVA barrels are of good, tough steel. Rumor has it they are also accurate.
When something goes wrong (what could ever happen whilst pouring whatever down the muzzle & pushing it down somewhere with a stick?) CVA barrels bulge, eventually part opens up.

Most American made barrels are of free machining steel which shatters rather than bulge. I know, I know, no one wants to hear this.

I've glued the two-piece stock together on my CVA, hoping to hide the joint with rawhide & scattered brass tacks.
 
There are two steel pins that pass through the brass separator and into each of the two stock pieces. I'm leaning toward a permanent epoxied joint
I don't know what the brass separator/connector looks like, only going by your description. Epoxy is a good adhesive for both metal to metal and metal to wood. I would suggest that the pins be roughed up or have some perpendicular grooves cut in so the epoxy has something to grab. Since I do not know if the pins insert into wood or metal I will add: If metal, the female for the pins also should be roughed up for better epoxy adhesion.

Flintlocklar 🇺🇲
 
@Larry (Omaha) That's seems like the best way forward. I have epoxy on hand that I use in bow building and it will definitely keep it all together. The pins are a good fit to the separator so it should go together easily.

Here's what the parts and diagram look like. Shoulda put these on from the beginning.

IMG_6104.JPG
IMG_6105.JPG
 
If it is of any help the images show how it was done on an original English 1760 flintlock fowler a wedge was situated two inches either end of the brass join which was fixed at a angle . This join was not a solid fix but could be removed when
P1010009.JPG
100_0412.JPG
100_0417.JPG
100_0418.JPG
a wedge was with drawn .
Feltwad
 
I am confused? I thought we were discussing CVA, DBL'S. not the non doubles, ones with a two piece stock??
 

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