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TC White Mountain Carbine

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Joined
Dec 31, 2019
Messages
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Good afternoon. I just returned home from an auction with a new to me White Mountain in .50. Almost perfect condition, i’ll check later but i’m not sure it was ever fired. I paid $350, which was my limit - my opponent’s limit was apparently $325.

I’ve always wanted one of these and i’m very pleased with it. The wood is very nice with no cracks behind the tang. Serial # is 115XX. Can anyone date this?

All the reviews on this arm are good. I’m a little concerned about the stories about stocks cracking. I’ll be asking about load recommendation but i have no wish to try to turn this into a .45-70. I like to baby my tools a little.

Also got a few accessories with it (photos).

So, how’d we do, gang? Thanks!

don
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You won't turn your rifle into a "45-70" unless you trade the round balls for conicals. It looks as if you have everything to start shooting. You might want a capper and I don't see any cleaning jags, patch puller or ball puller and the working rod to use them. The prelubed patches may have to go if there's any age to the package. Lubricant will cause cloth patches to deteriorate and with the deterioration goes accuracy.
 
Most of the .50 white mountain carbines are fast twist the .54 is 1-48. I own a 54 and my 50 will be here next week. I'm going with the great plains 385 bullet with a wonder wad over powder.
 
I love them! Lost 2 in the house fire, .50 & .54 :(. Just put a real nice clean .50 cal on layaway last week. I always shot 100 grns. FF & PRB in all my T/C rifles whether they were .50 or .54 (except a cut down .54 cal. Renegade that I shot 120 grns of FF with a Maxi Ball.)

Nice score though! :thumb:
 
All the reviews on this arm are good. I’m a little concerned about the stories about stocks cracking.
After seeing a few that cracked I started replacing the two wood screws in the tang with machine screws by drilling through to and tapping holes in the trigger housing, although some curmudgeons claim it weakens the stock by drilling through it. Clamps the wrist area between the tang and the trigger assembly.
 
After seeing a few that cracked I started replacing the two wood screws in the tang with machine screws by drilling through to and tapping holes in the trigger housing, although some curmudgeons claim it weakens the stock by drilling through it. Clamps the wrist area between the tang and the trigger assembly.


TC did that with their later stocks but only through the upper tang screw.
 
I have one and love it. Short and handy. I also use it when I'm instructing in muzzleloading cause smaller size folks can handle it, think kids. I didn't pay anything near what you did, but I also didn't get any swag with it and the bore is a bit rough but it still shoots well enough for instruction purposes.
 
Um, the part abt price, i can’t find anything much abt current prices, etc. i’d buy this again tomorrow, but how bad did i get roughed-up here? Asking for a friend. 😃

So what are these going for currently? I can take it.

don
 
Oh yeah, abt the serial number... i know TC had a fire so no accurate records are available. So any production date has to be done by comparison to other carbines with known or estimated dates of purchase.

The only other number i’ve seen is in the range of 3XXXX, making mine pretty early. I think she’s an old safe queen. Any thoughts?

My wife has apparently forgotten about an old and pristine .45 TC Hawken i bought her for Christmas which i figured she’d use for deer next Oct. Nope, she wants to take her new White Mountain. Yes, i said “her”.

Reminds me of when she claimed my KLR after she rode it. Opened her helmet and smiled sweetly and said, “I like this bike. This is now my bike!”

Yes, dear.
 
Um, the part abt price, i can’t find anything much abt current prices, etc. i’d buy this again tomorrow, but how bad did i get roughed-up here? Asking for a friend. 😃

So what are these going for currently? I can take it.

don


When you see these listed they’re usually in the 250 to 400 dollar price range and seem to actually sell unlike some models that just keep being relisted. Plus, you got swag with it. So, though yyou didn’t exactly steal it, seems you did okay.

my opinion and you’re welcome to it.
 
SDMLF,
When drilling for the machine screws, how did you drill into the old style trigger plate? There is only about 3/16' to the end of the trigger plate and even if you use a No. 8 screw there is very little metal left til the end of the plate. I have a late model stock that is drilled for the machine screw from the front tang location and the way I understand it these late model rifles used a different trigger plate with obviously a shorter spring. I am trying to figure out some way to get a trigger assembly into this stock to make it useable and the late style trigger plates seem to be rare at this point. Any help would be appreciated and I hope it will help the OP if he should decide to modify his White Mountain.
Thanks,
ThreeCrows
 
SDMLF,
When drilling for the machine screws, how did you drill into the old style trigger plate? There is only about 3/16' to the end of the trigger plate and even if you use a No. 8 screw there is very little metal left til the end of the plate. I have a late model stock that is drilled for the machine screw from the front tang location and the way I understand it these late model rifles used a different trigger plate with obviously a shorter spring. I am trying to figure out some way to get a trigger assembly into this stock to make it useable and the late style trigger plates seem to be rare at this point. Any help would be appreciated and I hope it will help the OP if he should decide to modify his White Mountain.
Thanks,
ThreeCrows
The WMC trigger is totally different than the TC Hawken or Renegade, which is what I believe you are referring to. First the WMC trigger assembly, the pictures should explain it. Drill straight through to the trigger assembly, tap and replace the wood screws with machine screws.
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With a Hawken or Renegade, you can replace the trigger with a RE Davis Deerslayer for $50. It has the clearance hole so you can run a machine screw through it and into the trigger guard. If you want to use the ‘old’ trigger, you can put thread inserts in the stock in the trigger mortise. Recommend replacement of both wood screws for maximum strength This is what I did to fix some older TCs with nice wood (TC would replace the cracked stock, typical not with nice wood). Repaired and/or reinforced dozens of stocks this way.
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