I use a Original T/C lock with a lyman Frizzen. Works very well. Will use it till its worn out and then part out whats usable. Late Model Cabelas Hawkins locks can also be used in a T/C stock with a minimal amount of work
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TC vs L&R rpl lock
- Thread starter torpedo
- Start date
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I wrapped sandpaper around various files to get in the nooks, I sanded to 220 then went over the metal with a scotch bright pad, It probably took me all day to polish the metal. I used cold blue to darken the metal and sanded it back to gray.
I would plug with carbon steel to keep the plug invisible. Counter sink the outside ever so slightly, cut off your plug 1/16" high and peen the extra into the countersink then file it smooth. Be sure you don't run the plug into the barrel.
The plug should look like this after peening and filing smooth. the plugged hole is to left of the bolster screw.
I would plug with carbon steel to keep the plug invisible. Counter sink the outside ever so slightly, cut off your plug 1/16" high and peen the extra into the countersink then file it smooth. Be sure you don't run the plug into the barrel.
The plug should look like this after peening and filing smooth. the plugged hole is to left of the bolster screw.
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On your lock picture it appears the hammer stop is hitting the edge of the lock plate and upsetting the metal. That was the major flaw on my lock, the hammer stop barely hit the corner of the lock plate. I sent the lock back to have them grind the square place back some on the tumbler so the hammer would sit closer to the lock plate and the hammer stop would hit the top of the lock plate firmly. They sent the lock back in worse shape than when I sent it off but that is another story.
Toneloc
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I noticed the same exact thing. I got it at little further on with some gentle filing. As it came from the factory it was barely touching.
I got her finished up today...nowhere near the level of finishing you did....but hopefully will be a reliable hunter.
My bit wandered a tiny bit so my position of the touch hole came back a tiny bit...but overall a lot better. Pan covers up the hole now.
My little usb bore scope tool was invaluable for plugging, drilling and tapping new touch. Could see exactly what was going on inside.
I got her finished up today...nowhere near the level of finishing you did....but hopefully will be a reliable hunter.
My bit wandered a tiny bit so my position of the touch hole came back a tiny bit...but overall a lot better. Pan covers up the hole now.
My little usb bore scope tool was invaluable for plugging, drilling and tapping new touch. Could see exactly what was going on inside.
Toneloc
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Quick question....someone in this thread mentioned the TC upgraded hammers are still available? I've searched high and low on the net and haven't turned anything up.
I've got a .54 TC renegade that I use (handed down from Dad who bought it in the 70s). Right now I've added extra leather under the flint to raise it up and got decent results, but would be interested in a taller hammer if they are available.
I've got a .54 TC renegade that I use (handed down from Dad who bought it in the 70s). Right now I've added extra leather under the flint to raise it up and got decent results, but would be interested in a taller hammer if they are available.
These issues make me want to avoid L&R locks... I'm a bit shocked at the level of rework required to get a properly functioning lock. Saw photos of a rifle for sale with a L&R lock, and it had the same high location for the touchhole.
Toneloc
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58 Caliber...thanks for the lead. Gunworks had the hammer. Ordered up just now. Also had a screw as well...I broke mine a few years back and was using a cobbled replacement...Hopefully I'll have things in order for late season in PA.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Great they have not failed me yet.
Dave
Dave
