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TDM

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Get some Plum Brown or Laurel Mountain Browning solution. Follow the directions and use a Qtip to apply. Don’t let it get inside the barrel. It will look fine. Glad you got that fixed. It’s good to eliminate the uncertainties.

Kinda surprised he didn’t remove all the dent but I doubt what’s left will hurt.
 

ElkStalker

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Get some Plum Brown or Laurel Mountain Browning solution. Follow the directions and use a Qtip to apply. Don’t let it get inside the barrel. It will look fine. Glad you got that fixed. It’s good to eliminate the uncertainties.
Thank you TDM. I have BC Plum brown, that’s what I used to treat the whole barrel. I also have some Browning Reagent from TOW that had great reviews, but it didn’t work well for me (maybe didn’t get it hot enough). I’ll try them and see what happens. I remember the plum brown required to be placed in the oven and heated up beforehand. Worst case, I have a winter project and will just strip it down
 

TDM

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Thank you TDM. I have BC Plum brown, that’s what I used to treat the whole barrel. I also have some Browning Reagent from TOW that had great reviews, but it didn’t work well for me (maybe didn’t get it hot enough). I’ll try them and see what happens. I remember the plum brown required to be placed in the oven and heated up beforehand. Worst case, I have a winter project and will just strip it down
A heat gun will do fine for that small an area.
 

ElkStalker

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Your renegade should shoot 1"at 50 yards RB & Conical.
1/48"
That ding is nothing. You're shooting a muzzleloader not a bench rest suppository rifle.



Is the muzzle that the bore counter board a lot of renegades were?
Try 75 to 80 grains of 2f. 3F has a faster power Spike than 2f.
If you're using triple seven back that powder charge down 10 grains.
Also check to see if your front rear sight are tight.
Shoot from a good solid rest.
And the nipple & clean bore Like was mentioned earlier.

Don't over grease.
I've owned several renegades and that's where the Sweet spot was with mine.
This one has the rifling all the way to the crown. I’ve read enough negative issues about those “QLR” barrels to not want to mess with those.
 

ElkStalker

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A heat gun will do fine for that small an area.
Great idea. I will give that a shot. I do have a heat gun so I may try it this evening. I tried the heat gun on the entire barrel and it wasn’t hot enough throughout, but I bet you’re correct with it being that small area. Good thinking!
Thank you!
 
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Hopefully this does the trick. Gunsmith removed .003” off the face and recut the crown at 45°. Sadly lost my nice browning job, but if it shoots, I can deal with that later. Anybody know a trick for a quick browning job? I don’t really want to strip it down to go in the oven for a full refinish.
Personally, if the barrel was in my lathe I would have cleaned up the damage and then gone about .010” more. Belts and suspenders approach proven to work. Without or without a lathe, I would have used the ball bearing process I have posted about here a number of times.

Using a series of ball bearings, from about one and half times the bore diameter, to right around bore diameter, and using sandpaper of different grits from 120/180 up to 320 or finer (I take it up to 1000 grit for a mirror finish). A couple of turns of the muzzle over each ball bearing with progressively finer sandpaper over them gives a smooth barrel crown to bore transition.

Basic idea is to hold the sandpaper over the ball bearing (you can place ball on the floor and hold paper with your feet, maybe on a pad or thin carpet if you don’t have a lathe to chuck up the barrel in) and rotate the barrel bore on the bearing with the sandpaper on it. Easy to keep barrel square with the floor. I’ll start with the larger diameter bearing and roughest grit paper and end with a smaller ball bearing near bore diameter, repeating with progressively finer grit sandpaper. I stop when I have a slight chamfer on bore and rifling lands that is highly polished.
1599165147312.jpeg


I use Dykem (or a Sharpie) to mark the inside the bore so I can easily see when I starting to clean up everything without going too far. Note the 60° chamfer in the photograph was cut on a lathe, I just use the ball bearings to break up the lumps and sharp edges and polish the crown.
1599165342148.jpeg


Just note with either method. If your barrel is already finished, you are going to remove finish from the face of the bore if you don’t protect it. I’ve used ‘masking’ tape with a hole punched through it (use a wad punch), but only on other people’s gun’s, not worrying about the finish on mine.
 

ElkStalker

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Personally, if the barrel was in my lathe I would have cleaned up the damage and then gone about .010” more. Belts and suspenders approach proven to work. Without or without a lathe, I would have used the ball bearing process I have posted about here a number of times.

Using a series of ball bearings, from about one and half times the bore diameter, to right around bore diameter, and using sandpaper of different grits from 120/180 up to 320 or finer (I take it up to 1000 grit for a mirror finish). A couple of turns of the muzzle over each ball bearing with progressively finer sandpaper over them gives a smooth barrel crown to bore transition.

Basic idea is to hold the sandpaper over the ball bearing (you can place ball on the floor and hold paper with your feet, maybe on a pad or thin carpet if you don’t have a lathe to chuck up the barrel in) and rotate the barrel bore on the bearing with the sandpaper on it. Easy to keep barrel square with the floor. I’ll start with the larger diameter bearing and roughest grit paper and end with a smaller ball bearing near bore diameter, repeating with progressively finer grit sandpaper. I stop when I have a slight chamfer on bore and rifling lands that is highly polished.
1599165147312.jpeg


I use Dykem (or a Sharpie) to mark the inside the bore so I can easily see when I starting to clean up everything without going too far. Note the 60° chamfer in the photograph was cut on a lathe, I just use the ball bearings to break up the lumps and sharp edges and polish the crown.
1599165342148.jpeg


Just note with either method. If your barrel is already finished, you are going to remove finish from the face of the bore if you don’t protect it. I’ve used ‘masking’ tape with a hole punched through it (use a wad punch), but only on other people’s gun’s, not worrying about the finish on mine.
That is a neat trick! I wish I had done this myself with the damage I am now going to have to address. I thought taking it to a “gunsmith” was the wise decision. I had not put a ding or a scratch in this rifle yet in the year that it’s been finished and I have been shooting it. I took it out to the shop to address the bare muzzle face and was pretty heated with what I found. The wedge pin was driven in from the wrong side and was stuck, the wedge carriage was driven completely off center to one side and ding up pretty bad, the barrel was under extreme cam pressure and popped like a spring when I got the wedge pin out, marks all up and down the barrel that broke through the browning to clean metal, dings in the stock, front sight buggered up, and he broke several screws and charged me to drill them out and replace. None of the damage in the photos existed until I brought the rifle to him. I’ve had every single screw removed and reinstalled on this rifle a dozen times and never once had an issue, or a scratch. I’m pretty upset and having to watch my tongue here. Shop lighting and iPhone make it look pretty dark, but it is actually a beautiful plum brown. I just hope the darn thing shoots straight at this point. So much for the pretty rifle I had so much pride in.
Anyway, I appreciate your advice and thorough explanation of that process. I will make note of it if I have to deal with this issue again in the future.
 

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TDM

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That is a neat trick! I wish I had done this myself with the damage I am now going to have to address. I thought taking it to a “gunsmith” was the wise decision. I had not put a ding or a scratch in this rifle yet in the year that it’s been finished and I have been shooting it. I took it out to the shop to address the bare muzzle face and was pretty heated with what I found. The wedge pin was driven in from the wrong side and was stuck, the wedge carriage was driven completely off center to one side and ding up pretty bad, the barrel was under extreme cam pressure and popped like a spring when I got the wedge pin out, marks all up and down the barrel that broke through the browning to clean metal, dings in the stock, front sight buggered up, and he broke several screws and charged me to drill them out and replace. None of the damage in the photos existed until I brought the rifle to him. I’ve had every single screw removed and reinstalled on this rifle a dozen times and never once had an issue, or a scratch. I’m pretty upset and having to watch my tongue here. Shop lighting and iPhone make it look pretty dark, but it is actually a beautiful plum brown. I just hope the darn thing shoots straight at this point. So much for the pretty rifle I had so much pride in.
Anyway, I appreciate your advice and thorough explanation of that process. I will make note of it if I have to deal with this issue again in the future.
Just keep moving ahead a step at a time. This is a learning experience, I still have them everyday. You’ll get it fixed up. Maybe try another gunsmith next time.
 

Muddly

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Required twist rate is determined by length in relation to diameter. Example, a 250 grain .45 caliber needs a 1-49 ( according to Greenhill) a 300 grain needs a 1-39 and a 500 grain needs a 1-20.
Bearing surface is irrelevant.
 

stikshooter

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I built this TC Tenegade 50cal from a kit. The reason I bought it was to shoot conicals for elk hunting. I have not been able to get this thing to group with any conical. I’ve tried Hornady GP 385, TC Maxi-balls, TC Maxi Hunters, Maxi Balls bought from October country, Lee R.E.A.L. Bullet sold locally for a while until the gentleman passed away last year. The REAL showed the most promise, but I can’t get them any more.
Today at the range I shot a group at 50yds using 80gr Goex FFg, leather over powder wad, and Hornady GP 385
This was my 50yrd group in the photo.
I did shoot round ball from it just to compare accuracy (first time in this rifle). I used a .490 cast ball, 70gr FFFg and an .018” patch lubed with TOW Mink. This was better at 3 inches and was tight, but I didn’t need a hammer to load it. I think that with some actual work up, patched round ball would do well in this rifle. Conicals, on the other hand, may be a lost cause. I’m getting frustrated because it isn’t doing what I need it to and really didn’t need another 50cal PRB rifle. Anybody have some suggestions for getting better accuracy with a conical? Unfortunately, elk season is upon me and I’ll be hunting again with my Lyman GPR 50cal (should have just bought a 54).
Sent PM
 

ElkStalker

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Please post who you trusted with such a fine gun you have, could save one of us in the future if we possibly live in your area. That smith should loose there license for sure!!!
He’s in Pinehurst Idaho, and I’ll just leave it at that.
I am pretty upset. I think he also dropped it on the hook because I really have to fiddle with it now to get the barrel to seat in the breach and stock.
The good news is, it shoots now so he did the crown right.
 

ElkStalker

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Now for the good news. I just got home from the range. Hornady Great Plains bullet was a 3” group at 50yrds using 80gr Scheutzen and a leather over powder wad that I punched out. I think this group will shrink once I get a proper oversized felt wad and experiment with powder charge. This rifle really likes 3F powder, so I may try that.
Shooting a patched round ball was excellent when I figured out what it likes. If I deviated from the following, my groups opened up. But this recipe produced the group in the photo. 3 touching with a flyer because I did not bounce the ramrod off the ball for the first shot.
80gr Goex 3F
Hornady .490 swageed ball
.018” pillow ticking lubed lightly, and only on the smooth side, with mink oil, textured side against the ball.
Ball firmly seated on powder and bounced the ramrod off the ball.
Swabbed with a spit patch and a dry patch between shots. If I cleaned it with T17, the groups opened up.

50yrds - 4 shots - 1 flyer
So this supports that the crown was the issue. Best I could get previously with PRB was over 16 inches. Thank you all for your help and suggestions.
 

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Jayhawkdan

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I built this TC Tenegade 50cal from a kit. The reason I bought it was to shoot conicals for elk hunting. I have not been able to get this thing to group with any conical. I’ve tried Hornady GP 385, TC Maxi-balls, TC Maxi Hunters, Maxi Balls bought from October country, Lee R.E.A.L. Bullet sold locally for a while until the gentleman passed away last year. The REAL showed the most promise, but I can’t get them any more.
Today at the range I shot a group at 50yds using 80gr Goex FFg, leather over powder wad, and Hornady GP 385
This was my 50yrd group in the photo.
I did shoot round ball from it just to compare accuracy (first time in this rifle). I used a .490 cast ball, 70gr FFFg and an .018” patch lubed with TOW Mink. This was better at 3 inches and was tight, but I didn’t need a hammer to load it. I think that with some actual work up, patched round ball would do well in this rifle. Conicals, on the other hand, may be a lost cause. I’m getting frustrated because it isn’t doing what I need it to and really didn’t need another 50cal PRB rifle. Anybody have some suggestions for getting better accuracy with a conical? Unfortunately, elk season is upon me and I’ll be hunting again with my Lyman GPR 50cal (should have just bought a 54).
Hi Elk Stalker. I have a bunch (about 200) of .50 cal. R.E.A.L. 320 grain bullets I’d sell ya if yer interested. A feller made these for me for my .50 cal. T/C Hawken, but I no longer need them. About half of ‘em are lubed with 50:50 bee’s wax and lard. I think they’ll all fit in a small size USPS Priority Mail box for shipping. Let me know by PM if your interested.
JayhawkDan
 
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