TC Hawken barrel build

[sparkshooter308]

I'm getting ready to replace the barrel on my TC Hawken and seek advise from those who have done this. I have a barrel, patent breech, sights, and under rib. I want to reuse the TC underlug and the stock rod pipes. I plan to make rivets to hold the under rib to the barrel. My question is, are there any pitfalls I should be aware of as far as fitting the hook breech and fitting around the lock.

 

[Grimord]

What is your ultimate goal with barrel replacement? Larger bore? If so I would send the barrel to Bobby Hoyt to be re-bored, he does excellent work.

 

[sparkshooter308]

My end goal is to replace an abused barrel (by me in my younger years) with one of the same caliber but with a rb twist. I have built several Track of the Wolf long rifle kits but have never dealt with a barrel rib or a hook breech.

 

[Grimord]

You still might send it to Bobby Hoyt to have him re-bore the barrel and line it with a 50 caliber liner with the twist rate you want.

 

[Scota@4570]

Advice?... Solder the under rib. Use new thimbles that properly nestle the ramrod close to the rib. You may have to modify the nose cap so the ramrod slips in easily. Better, If you want to get fancy use a real entry pipe and Hawken style nose cap.

Screws and rivets invite disaster. The TC system for attaching the thimbles is extremely "hokie" and was not used on originals. The holes look bad too.

I see no reason to save the TC barrel. They are too short, go 32 to 36".

 

[Hylander]

I also am getting ready to replace a T/C Hawken barrel.
50 Cal., 30", 1:66, .012 grooves.
I have had longer barrels on the T/C's and they just don't balance as well.
I am going with a Rice barrel, Jason will fit my T/C replacement plug that I got from TOW for me.
After that My local smith is going to install the under lug and the rib just as T/C did the original.
Personally I see no reason not to do it the way T/C did, also GM does it the same way as well.

 

[billraby]

I would probably buy a few more parts and build a new rifle.

 

[Pete G]

Personally I see no reason not to do it the way T/C did, also GM does it the same way as well.

Because it is a really hokey way of doing it...right above duct tape.

 

[rafterob]

If you are building up the barrel, I would definitely have the under rib soldered on. Trouble free after that. You will be glad you did.

 

[Hylander]

Because it is a really hokey way of doing it...right above duct tape.

I know it is not the original old school.
However, how is it hokey?
Nothing about a T/C is authentic.
Small screws hold it on that you don't really see and holds it secure. Never seen one come off.

 

[Nameless Hunter]

I know it is not the original old school.
However, how is it hokey?
Nothing about a T/C is authentic.
Small screws hold it on that you don't really see and holds it secure. Never seen one come off.

I'm with you.
The T/C "Hawken" was a marketing creation, and would be almost impossible to make it look "authentic".
If you just want to make your T/C shoot better with an upgraded/replaced barrel, then you have a made the right choice, IMO:

Options are:

1) Have Bobby Hoyt rebore to a larger cal., or reline/rebore your existing barrel for the existing cal.

2) Get a 32" GM drop-in barrel from TOTW (usually out of stock)

3) Get a custom "drop-in" barrel from The Gun Works (my 1st choice) for not much more than a standard drop-in
http://www.thegunworks.com/custprod...n Rifle&SubCat2ID=69&do=list&Cat1Name=BarrelsIn fact, I'm looking to get a fast twist from then later this year for my T/C Hawken.

 

[Scota@4570]

Using screws on the rib required high precision drilling tapping and chamfering. The only way I would attempt it is to super glue the rib in place then drill and tap using a milling machine. It is far more work than soldering. Also there is a gap between the rib and the barrel that invites rust.

Screwing the thimbles to the rib is just an ugly hot mess. The ramrod should ride on a smooth surface all the way down the rib, that includes the thimbles. . TC just slapped the thimbles on top of the rib and screwed them in place. IT is the ugliest possible way to attach the thimbles. IT also invites disaster in a misplaced tapped hole, if you try to do it that way. IF one thimble is slightly off the ramrod will not fit smoothly. I'm pretty sure TC used 5-40 NS screws. You will have to buy a tap and make a chamfer tool. Todo a good job requires a milling machine for precision.

TC did it that way as a cost savings measure on a production basis. It is not a good way to do one at a time in a small shop.

It is just so much easier and better to solder the rib and new thimbles as traditionally done. File notches in the rib for the thimbles. Flat off the thimbles. Tin the rib, barrel, and thimbles. Use 3/8" all thread to align the thimbles. Wire and wedge it all. Heat, add solder, done. It will be perfect with no special measurements. It will ring like a fine double barrel shotgun.