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Taking a Blacksmithing class

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Specifically he stated that "packing" of chisels and other items were unnecessary and outdated.

JCKelly, I read your treatise on metal work and really enjoyed it.
Do you think the my book is worthwhile?
Eterry - maybe I'll buy a copy & see for myself. I just went around with the credit card Co., now getting a new card. Old one canceled as I tried to use a site that claimed I could download a PDF of this book by Bealer. Scam. Still wanna see what Bealer has to say, like what is meant by "packing". Time now for some peanuts & Netfliks exciting movie
 
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Most in the class have or want a gas forge, me, im staying old school and using coal fired forge.
Yup most in class want fast n easy, kina defeats the purpose now dont it...
If leanardo devinci had photoshop... just damn?
 
To all concerned about my cinder block anvil support. It is just temporary, and already have huge log sections for an anvil, and the swage block to rest on. No way would I hammer on my Peter Wright 430lb anvil resting like that. I will be doing similar to this

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now that is the right way.
 
Definitely. Also, Weygers' The Modern Blacksmith.
Hay-Budden was and is considered the Dusenberg of anvils. Please don't grind or otherwise "clean up" your gem. The slight edge chipping is normal for these. Applying a grinder to the face will halve the value of what many smiths would consider a national treasure. They can be dated using the serial number, mine is from 1911.

Thanks for the kind words about the anvil.
It has a fair coating of rust from sitting outside a dozen years. And the lower parts have some grey paint on it.
I plan on using a wire wheel to remove the rust and paint. Otherwise plain on leaving it alone.
 
Another one bites the dust.

I don't think the rust on the face will help me forge iron, and certainly won't help when i try to lap weld steel.

I haven't seen any Smith using an anvil with a rusty face and horn.

If im wrong please let me know.

I bought it to USE IT, not Admire it.
 
JCKELLY,.. a direct quote from the book on page 127 says "Packing is hammering iron or carbon steel at a low heat usually Sunrise read to pack the fibers of the metal together."

My instructor doesn't think it is a worthwhile endeavor.

I earlier called it parking, I blame it on autocorrect
 
Admire all the expert opinions here and wish I were started hammering, hoping to this winter. I have anvil and post vise, still looking for the coal forge tho! A random question, assuming I do get the fire lit: Is my collection of old lawn tractor blades a good source of steel to start practicing shaping, hardening, annealing, etc? Asked a real blacksmith and he wasn't sure what kind of steel, said just try it and see.
 
I'm certainly not the most qualified person to answer your question. My instructor said most modern steels are decent for tool making and to practice on.

It really matters what you plan on making? A candle holder or decorative item about any metal that'll get red hot should do. If you wanna make a samurai sword you'll need specialized metal for that project. But i would think a mower blade would be pretty decent high carbon steel, as it's designed to take some abuse.

Me, i'm gonna get my practice in making simple tools, turn screws, bottle openers, meat forks, etc. Most low carbon metals should work for my projects, if i'm understanding what i'm hearing correctly.

As to the forge, there's a neat video on YouTube about a guy making and using a JABOD forge. That's a Just A Box Of Dirt forge with a vacuum cleaner for a blower (you reverse the hose to make it blow). He built a wooden box, filled it with dirt and rocks and was getting metal to forging heat in no time.

Then he broke it down and packed it away just as fast. Some of the coal turned to coke and he saved that for future use.

I hope that helps.
 
most of us in the 76++year old age, were broken in on coal forges, and gas forges just don't cut it!! A COAL FIRED FORGES RULLES FOR US!!
 
Oh, by the way, after talking to the instructor, he said a wire brush wasn't needed. just a little rubbing of the face with steel wool then oiling it down should do. He said when I start hammering steel it will clean up nicely.
I wont however mention what he thought i should do with the rolled edges of the face, I dont want anyone to go into cardiac arrest or convulsions. :eek:
 
Most in the class have or want a gas forge, me, im staying old school and using coal fired forge.
Yup most in class want fast n easy, kina defeats the purpose now dont it...
If leanardo devinci had photoshop... just damn?
I live in coal country but we do not use it for forging. Wyoming coal is of low BTU and doesn't get hot enough even when coked. So gas is the way to go.
 
I will end up getting this one, as I have been told by the owner. He is my friend, and getting on up in the years. It is a super nice Hay Budden, that was going to be thrown in the trash, luckily he was around to save it. It is nearly the same size as mine, over 350 lbs. He is helping me now with materials to build my blacksmith shop

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Coal forge can get much hotter than gas. Gas won't burn delicate work as readily, though. I use a wheel drum forge. Not elegant nor as deep, but quite effective. Btuminous or soft coal is best. The hard, shiney anthracite used in furnaces is hard to keep burning and is apt to burn your work. Any steel for practice is good. Mower blades should be fine for chisles or knives if not a bit tough to work. Have fun and wear earmuffs.
 
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