T/C Hawken Percussion Misfires

[BillRob]

I'm having recent trouble with an older (early 80s) T/C Hawken .54 percussion rifle - all original. When I pull the trigger, the hammer has started catching on the set trigger notch, resulting in a misfire. I have taken the trigger and hammer assemblies off, cleaned and oiled them well, but no change. When I removed the hammer assembly, the two small screws on the inside were a tiny bit loose. I tightened them a bit, and the hammer seemed to work outside of the gun, but the same problem still presented itself once the gun was assembled. Sometimes the hammer will fall all the way to the nipple if I really pull the trigger hard and fast, but that is certainly not the answer! I have tried adjusting the set screw for the hair-trigger in every possible setting. I have two questions: Do you recommend a custom part for a permanent fix? Can you recommend an adjustment that might allow me to salvage the last week in the season? Thank you! Bill

 

[deerstalkert]

not sure what you mean " the hammer has started catching on the set trigger notch "
i think you maybe mean it catches on the half cock notch. if so your fly has either gone walk about or broken.
your best long term option is to replace that lock with a L&R rpl lock.
can you take the lock off and post some pictures of the inside? clear shots with the hammer down and cocked.

 

[brawny man]

I'm having recent trouble with an older (early 80s) T/C Hawken .54 percussion rifle - all original. When I pull the trigger, the hammer has started catching on the set trigger notch, resulting in a misfire. I have taken the trigger and hammer assemblies off, cleaned and oiled them well, but no change. When I removed the hammer assembly, the two small screws on the inside were a tiny bit loose. I tightened them a bit, and the hammer seemed to work outside of the gun, but the same problem still presented itself once the gun was assembled. Sometimes the hammer will fall all the way to the nipple if I really pull the trigger hard and fast, but that is certainly not the answer! I have tried adjusting the set screw for the hair-trigger in every possible setting. I have two questions: Do you recommend a custom part for a permanent fix? Can you recommend an adjustment that might allow me to salvage the last week in the season? Thank you! Bill

Bill
Cleaning and oiling the lock is a good start. My question is how does the lock fly look? Is it present? Is it whole and undamaged? The fly should move freely. It helps the lock sear to skip over the half cock notch. Good luck.

 

[BillRob]

First - thank you to Deerstalkert for the clarification. Of course it was the half-cock notch - not a "hair-trigger notch." (I shouldn't be posting after starting the day at 4am and looking for deer all day. And then there was that gin and tonic after the gun was cleaned and put away...) Anyway - here is a pic of the hammer assembly. B-man asked about the lock fly: I took the gun apart to take the pic and I think the lock fly looks okay - but when I looked at it earlier - I don't remember seeing the lock fly at all! I think it might have been hung up in the mechanism and then released into the proper position after I soaked the whole thing and oiled it well. Does that sound possible? The gun seems to work now but it definitely did not work when I was aiming at a doe mulie at about 45 yards this afternoon! Thanks for your input guys - and any more thoughts might really help!! I'd really like to get one more opportunity at a mulie this year! Bill
d

 

[William Lincoln]

Lock looks good. Lube a little. In the cold metal expands
and can work tight. Also check clearances. Mulies have
huge meat compared to our skimpy-twiggy whitetails.
Good luck!

 

[BillRob]

Lock looks good. Lube a little. In the cold metal expands
and can work tight. Also check clearances. Mulies have
huge meat compared to our skimpy-twiggy whitetails.
Good luck!

Thanks William! Where are you in Florida? My brother is in Stuart - he takes his Hawken out for pigs from time to time! No feral hogs up here - at least not yet! Thanks again! Bill

 

[Grenadier1758]

Lock looks good. Lube a little. In the cold metal expands
and can work tight. Also check clearances. Mulies have
huge meat compared to our skimpy-twiggy whitetails.
Good luck!

Actually, metal contracts in the cold. Grease solidifies and will likely keep the fly from moving as it should. Only use a light oil for cold weather on the fly. Between the cleaning and the tightening of the two loose screws, you probably fixed your problem.

 

[mooman76]

Your lock whrn placed in the stock does not need to be torqued down. Only snug. If you over tighten the screws that hold the lock in place, it cab cause binding.

 

[Flintlock]

Are the springs and lock making contact with the stock, sounds like some releaving could be done.

 

[BillRob]

Are the springs and lock making contact with the stock, sounds like some releaving could be done.

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I was pretty sure you guys would put me in the right direction. The lock is soaking in oil right now. When I get home from work I'll get out some lipstick and check the relief against the stock. Thanks again! Bill

 

[William Lincoln]

BillRob, on the State Line N Central Panhandle Area--Many Wild Hogs. Also New Mex
but now great danger due to illegals flowing across the ranch. also
correction: Heat expands metal- cold contracts, it was late but the point
is cold distorts things.

 

[rafterob]

First off, I appreciate your choice of adult beverage. Flies can be touchy when it comes to cleanliness and lubrication. In cold weather your oil should not thicken, you may need to look at that.

 

[deerstalkert]

wow! that is an old TC lock! haven't seen that one for years.
looking at the pic i'd venture that gook is your gremlin. a good cleaning and some lite oil should help.

 

[ord sgt]

Don't over tighten the two screws that hold the tumbler and sear bar. Too tight will cause the parts to bind. Plus a light application of oil does wonders for moving parts.

 

[Mark Herman]

It almost sounds like your fly may be broken or gone. Could have fallen out or dislodged when the internal screws were loose and you removed the lock.

 

[BillRob]

wow! that is an old TC lock! haven't seen that one for years.
looking at the pic i'd venture that gook is your gremlin. a good cleaning and some lite oil should help.

I guess it is getting old. My wife bought that gun for me 40 years ago and I've never really done anything to modify it. Up until this week it has worked great. As you guys have suggested, I cleaned and did my best to degunk the lock. It seems to work now. I'm not much of a would-be gunsmith, as you can tell. Do you think I would be making a mistake to take out these two screws and clean under the plate? (i.e. - would I be able to get it back together?) btw - We are also from Idaho - 20 years in Pocatello and 10 in Boise. I used to take all my ML problems to Davey Crockett gunsmith in Pocatello - but that was a few years back! Thanks again! Bill

 

[deerstalkert]

you have done the important part.
another thing you can look at is how deep the trigger group recesses into its mortice. over time as the screws are tightened it can compress the wood. changes the interface with the trigger and lock. easy to shim out the trigger if needed.

 

[nit wit]

maybe the lock plate screw is too tight.
Nit Wit

 

[longcruise]

Don't over tighten the two screws that hold the tumbler and sear bar. Too tight will cause the parts to bind. Plus a light application of oil does wonders for moving parts.

And, also make sure those screws are not loose. I've had two incidents that were like yours and in both cases it was loose screws on the bridle. I'm sorta leaning toward gunk.

I remove the lock with every cleaning and clean it as well. Oil very sparingly with light oil. It needs a little oil which in turn holds dirt and grime so regular cleaning prevents wear and gunk build up.

 

[BruceHH]

When the two bridle screws loosen, the bridle plate will raise and cause the fly to work up and out of place. The fly will also cease to function correctly. Clean it like you have already done, lube it well, especially under and around the bridle plate. When you get a chance, take one of the bridle screws out at a time - place a drop of red locktight into the screw hole and reinsert and tighten the screw. Repeat for the other one. Check those two screws every so often and you should be good. If that does not work, you have a fly problem and it needs to be replaced.

P.S. make sure you oil the sear plunger and spring at the rear.