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T/C and RPL locks

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My experience has been that they fit Hawkens and Renegades. Direct replacement is a no they do not. All have required some wood removal and others a more. My guess is it probably depends on when that particular model was manufactured by TC. Eric Krewson will probably pipe in as if I recall he had to do quite a bit of work on one he got. Your mileage may vary....

Dave
 
What 58 caliber said is true. The locks are not a drop in replacement. The lock mortise has to have quite a bit of wood removed to accommodate the leaf spring which replaces the coil spring on the T/C locks. And as stated, depending on the production year of the gun there could be more issues that have to be delt with in order to get a functioning lock.
 
OK, Here goes; first place, TCs are not the cookie cutter duplicates one my think, they vary a good bit, not all but some.

I had a TC percussion Renegade stock and a flint barrel and decided to make a flint Renegade with an L&R RPL lock. I bought the lock,the first one had a casting flaw in the nose of the lock plate so it went back, the second one had a incorrectly fitted tumbler shaft. The cock only hit the edge of the lock plate at the cock stop so it went back. When it came back they had reground the shaft but forced it through the lock plate burr and all, the tumbler wouldn't even rotate. I knocked the tumbler out of the lock plate, filed off the burr, polished everything up an moved on. (no more L&R locks for me)

The L&R wasn't close to fitting the mortise, I had made two plank builds and a precarve before I attempted this so I wasn't a rookie. First, the barrel touchhole and the pan center were 1/4" off, I moved the barrel and tang back to center things up, this required cutting some of the under rib off, the TC lock bolt didn't come close to hitting the fixture on the L&R bridal so I plugged the old hole and drilled a new one, I figured out a way to drill a blind hole and actually hit the tiny socket on the bridal.

Well, the lock bolt was now hitting the back of the barrel so I ground that off to get bolt clearance.

The L&R lockplate was smaller than the TC inlet so I had to glue in shims to fill the gap.

Of course I had to do a complete lock inlet job to accommodate the L&R internals, no big deal as I had done the same a bunch of times before.

The first picture is before I blued everything, you can see the offset lock bolt hole and where I ground the back of the barrel off to let the bolt pass by.

The second picture is the finished gun with a few shims glued in at the tail of the lock. The lock sparks well, I sold the gun to a guy who will never shoot it so it is an unfired gun safe queen.

Some people who use the L&R RPL locks run into some of the same things I did, for some it goes relatively easily, your mileage may vary.
renegade mock-up 005.JPG

finished Renegads 001.JPG
 
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One time I purchased an L&R lock to put on a TC percussion Hawken. I did have to do a little wood removal to clear the spring, but other than that it functioned as it was supposed to. I could tell no difference in performance from the factory lock, and have never tried another L&R replacement as it seemed to me a lot of money for nothing...
 
About the only time replacing a lock on a T/C is when the lock is one of the older flintlock locks which had poor geometry in it's design. Stony Broke summed it up nicely.
 
I did find the L&R flintlock was superior to a TC flintlock, I had $220 in it after shipping it back twice. I don't know it it was worth $220, a couple weeks work and pulling almost all my hair out getting it to work properly, opposed to to a TC lock.
 
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