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T/C .50 cal Flintlock question

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Bought a used T/C that needed some attention. Did a total take down, stock refinish, cleaning things and inspecting to see what parts will be needed. I ordered a new frizzen from RMC and a new style cock from The Gun Works. Frizzen fitted up well,the new style cock not so well. The new style cock is loose on the original tumbler approximately 1/4 in. front and back play. The old style cock is tight, but does not strike frizzen square, and is off center, would need heated and twisted which I really would rather not. Any good suggestions. I do realize a new lock would cure the problem but then my sort of good deal goes south.
 
Using a flat punch, slightly larger than the hole in the cock that goes on the tumbler, peen the hole SLIGHTLY to compress the metal around the hole for a tighter fit to the tumbler.
 
I would ask the gun works if this is common, I have never heard of such in a TC lock.

You could get a new tumbler to match the cock.

I made a random parts TC Renegade and found out that TCs aren't the cookie cutter duplicates we might think they are, there is a lot of variation depending on who put them together.
 
I would ask the gun works if this is common, I have never heard of such in a TC lock.

You could get a new tumbler to match the cock.

I made a random parts TC Renegade and found out that TCs aren't the cookie cutter duplicates we might think they are, there is a lot of variation depending on who put them together.

Yes , I agree very much. I am going to call Gunworks and see if this is common. Actually the original cock could have been fitted better than what it was. Fitting parts on a production gun has long,long departed
 
Have talked to a man named Dave at Gunworks and was told to send new style cock back that I bought from them along with my locks tumbler and they would try to find a new style cock to snugly fit my tumbler.

Also have another question, I am no expert on this but as I examine the lock it looks like the tumbler has a stop, and that stop looks like it is not letting the cock come fully forward, my question is how far forward can the cock be made to come.
 
Post a photo to show what you’re concerned about. A lock needs to stop the hammer by some means and where is generally decided by the maker.
 
Post a photo to show what you’re concerned about. A lock needs to stop the hammer by some means and where is generally decided by the maker.

I will try and do that as soon as I get the cock back from GunWorks , they are trying to get one to fit my tumbler tighter I hope. Across the flats on the tumbler were .216 in and inside the cock was .228 in gave about 5/8 in movement front and back. From what I am seeing on these T/C production guns I wonder if they really cared. The original cock was offset vertically and twisted horizontally, no way you could have set up a flint in that thing, can hardly believe it worked from new, probably why it was getting sold.
 
Ok got my tumbler back from The Gunworks, sent it to them to match up my tumbler and new style cock for my T/C. They did a terrific job and mated me up with one that is dead on, no play at all :). This company is great to work with.
Now on to the question of if my cock is far enough forward on the fired position, my perspective and observation say no, any opinions?
 

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With the combination of the upgraded TC cock and RMC frizzen, that is exactly the alignment position you will get every time. It will work. If you got any closer in the fired position, you would not have room for the flint.
 
In the fired position with the recommended 5/8x3/4 in flint the flint just barely strikes, (maybe by a 1x16 in) the frizzen. At 1/2 cock the flint is 3/8 in to 1/2 in from touching the frizzen. any body have any measurements for me to go by. Iam still in the thinking that the geometry on this lock is really wrong. The original frizzen that was on the gun sure points in that direction it had one of those cut flints that came along with those guns. This picture is of the original frizzen. assuming the original flint was installed correctly
 

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Put the flint in the jaw (loose), move the cock to half cock, close your frizzen. Then move your flint out to it nearly touches the frizzen - tighten the flint down. You will then hit the frizzen face about two thirds up. I shoot the same set up and it works every time. If you are worried about the flint moving back - don't. If it does, you did not tighten it enough. If you are still worried, put a small piece of something behind the flint.
 
After looking over the T/C lock,and getting an understanding how it all comes together to make sparks, I decided to do my attempt at tuning a lock. I figured if I fail, then here comes an L&R lock, If it works than I will be a happy camper. My first goal was to take out as much play as possible, after receiving the fitted new style cock from Gunworks to match my tumbler, I made a new bridle with closer tolerance holes for the tumbler and sear pins, big improvement. After removing a few thousandths from the cock stop, and sear for engagement to the tumbler it gave me the configuration of the cock to the frissen I thought I needed. Strikes exactly 2/3rds from top of frissen all the way to the bottom finally some polishing hear and there, and application of a high pressure grease and it is real smooth to cock. The flint I bought that was recommended seemed a little short so I just used a little thicker leather and that worked out fine. Throws a nice shower of sparks. :) Now on to the vent and the vent hole liner, looks like what is in there needs some easy out work or some fine machine work. The one that is in it looks like it was filed flat to the barrel with a slot for a screwdriver and .063 hole, the hole is open.
 
I think you have made some good upgrades that resulted in good sparks to the pan. I'm not sure you need to work on your vent liner. You have the desired 1/16" touch hole that most of us recommend. There should be no problem with the liner filed flat to the barrel. Before you get the easy out and start working on the vent liner, a few test firings would be in order. The vent liner really doesn't need to be regularly removed until the touch hole burns through and accuracy is affected. Many liners do not have a slot or other removal option.
 
With a little heat and quick chill the vent hole liner came out, threads ok just needed a little cleaning. the area around breech plug and bottom of barrel seem clean of any gunk or major rust. One question I have on this barrel is, 1inch from face of breech plug up the barrel, or 27 1/2 inch down from the muzzle there seems to be a restriction. Cleaning rod for gun or a 50cal round ball does not go past. Smaller cleaning rod will go past to bottom. With the bore scope it does not appear to be powder crud, but still not shiny like steel. Is this what they mean when talking about T/C patent breech, or do I have some serious brushing of the bore to look forward to.
 
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