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54mountain

45 Cal.
Joined
Sep 26, 2006
Messages
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Hi. I'm new here just thought I'd post a pic of my toy to see what you all thought.
myswivelgun.jpg
 
I built it, it's a 1" bore and 18" from breech to muzzle I turned it out of three inch cold roll steel. the yoke is made from a solid piece of 3"x5" cold roll. I've been shootin' 300gr ffg and a 15/16 prb that I made the mold for also.
 
Since you showd me yours, I'll show you mine! :grin:

vebruggen.jpg


3-pdr 40" long tube weighing 200 lbs by South Bend Replicas. Ain't they fun? :thumbsup:
 
Sorry - wasn't thinking - HERE's my swivel. 1-1/4" bore and 29" in length. Had it since 1970 - my first black powder gun! :thumbsup:

mounted.jpg
 
Nice!! Your's is a bit more p/c than mine, do you shoot projectiles or is it just for makin' noise?
 
Welcome to the board 54mountain I really like that handle on your swivel its awesome ! I am now stealing idea's !!! Also Welcome to the board grapeshot .,That mount of yours is pretty unique., thats giving me other ideas., nice to see these swivels.,we dont see enough of them. Outstanding. :thumbsup:
 
glad ya' like it copy all you want, don,t they say imitaiton is the best form of flattery :grin: :grin: :grin: by the way here's my baby in action
JSML_Rende_Pics_041600x450.jpg
 
54,

I just fire blanks from my swivel - 2 ounces makes a really good blast. I have fired grapeshot from my 3-pdr. I named her "Retribution" and use her frequently reenacting. 6 ounces gets a good bark from Retribution and if she's on hard, smooth ground, she recoils 2 -3 feet.


HarborMaster,

The wine barrel works quite well with the 2 oak boards glued and screwed down to reinforce the swivel mount. I also learned the hard way to add screws into the top and bottom bands - I was doing demos at Claude Moore Park up in Reston when, on the last shot the top band sprang upward causing the sideboards to spread outward and then the end fell into the barrel and the gun went with it! :rotf: The gun was fine, but the barrel was finished! The one you see in the picture laying on its side had to take its place. Thank God the guy at Hartwood Winery gave me two! :grin:

R/s,
Charlie
 
54mountain said:
by the way here's my baby in action

Sweet! Try using a linstock and slowmatch - it's even more of a rush when you light 'er off by hand! :grin:

BTW, nice work on her!
 
grapeshot said:
54mountain said:
by the way here's my baby in action

Sweet! Try using a linstock and slowmatch - it's even more of a rush when you light 'er off by hand! :grin:

BTW, nice work on her!
Thats 300g FFg and a 1200g rb a friend shot the pic at the Ks. state rondie. I've been wantin' to try the slowmatch but you will have to explain the prosess to me :grin: :grin:
 
Go to G. Gedney Godwin's and on this page you'll see a linstock and slowmatch.

The slowmatch is rope that has been soaked in saltpeter so that it will smolder at an even rate and not flame up. This is wrapped around the shaft of the linstock and one end protrudes out of the holder of the linstock.

It was originally used to keep a source of heat handy so that they could ignite the portfires. A portfire is much like a modern road flare in that it spits flame and sparks and was used to instantaneously light a cannon, but only lasts about 3 - 4 minutes. However, portfires are considered dangerous and not allowed at any modern reenactment or range that I'm aware of. Slowmatches were used not only to light portfires, but they were also used as a backup to the portfire, and in modern times we use a slowmatch at all times.

If you go to the Friends of Fort Frederick website you'll see my buddy Tad firing the 6-pdr.

R/s,
Charlie
 
Grapeshot, thanks for the info i've seen people use a slowmatch on matchlock guns but didn't know where to find it or how it was made, do you just fill the touch hole with ffffg after you prick the charge?
 
rsblack said:
Hi,this is my French Naval Swivel gun,1" bore and 35"in total lenght.
Nice gun, I've always liked the smaller hand held swivles, :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
54,

I always use primers - they're safer, more reliable and more convenient. I'm going ot be making up a batch this coming weekend for Yorktown and I'll snap some photos so you can see how I make them.


R/s,
Charlie
 
grapeshot said:
54,

I always use primers - they're safer, more reliable and more convenient. I'm going ot be making up a batch this coming weekend for Yorktown and I'll snap some photos so you can see how I make them.


R/s,
Charlie
That would be cool! As my local supply of fuse just went out of business :(
 
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