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Swap barrel rifle/smoothie?

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Woody Morgan

62 Cal.
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I really like my Traditions Deerhunter. It's reliable, carries well and is easy to deal with both in shooting and cleaning with a hooked breech and single barrel wedge. I also want a 20 gauge smoothie and versatility is one of my main "things".
My idea right or wrong is to procure another barrel for it and have the second barrel reamed out to .620 by someone like Bobby Hoyt and I'd have a nice swap-barrel setup on the same action/stock.
Thoughts? I can take it.

wm
 
I really like my Traditions Deerhunter. It's reliable, carries well and is easy to deal with both in shooting and cleaning with a hooked breech and single barrel wedge. I also want a 20 gauge smoothie and versatility is one of my main "things".
My idea right or wrong is to procure another barrel for it and have the second barrel reamed out to .620 by someone like Bobby Hoyt and I'd have a nice swap-barrel setup on the same action/stock.
Thoughts? I can take it.

wm
You will have to call bobby Hoyt to ask him, but I believe he does not work on CVA or Traditions guns due to the type of breech pug they use. I may be wrong, but I suggest you check with him first.
 
A Deerhunter at .62 bore would put my comfort zone in jeopardy.
And yeah me too, I like 'em.
Why is that? As long as the barrel still has enough "meat" left on the diameter, what would be the issue with a carbine-length .62?

wm
 
Last edited:
Why is that? As long as the barrel still has enough "meat" left on the diameter, what would be the issue with a carbine-length .62?
Grimord said it,,
It's about the method of "breech" the Spanish made barrels use. They "impact drive" the breech to the barrel, then "cross drill" the breech thread to install the drum/flash channel after. There is no way to remove and replace the breech to those barrels that will maintain integrity enough for after market modification that can be insured by the technique used during manufacture.
It could probably be done in a home made shop, (not recommended), but there is no current professional that can do the work with enough reliable integrity for the consumer market.
(period)
 
Grimord said it,,
It's about the method of "breech" the Spanish made barrels use. They "impact drive" the breech to the barrel, then "cross drill" the breech thread to install the drum/flash channel after. There is no way to remove and replace the breech to those barrels that will maintain integrity enough for after market modification that can be insured by the technique used during manufacture.
It could probably be done in a home made shop, (not recommended), but there is no current professional that can do the work with enough reliable integrity for the consumer market.
(period)
Or, its a swine to line everything back up after!
 
Who said anything about removing the breech to do the job? Is that a requirement for machining?
Forgive me. I'm an electrician.

wm

Yes, removing the breech is required. unless you want to stop every 1/4 inch or so to blow metal chips out of the barrel. And if you did that I can't even imagine what the final results would be.
 
To the OP : you'd be better off to start with a Renegade or somethin' similar for your project. Or mybe a New Englander.
 
I appreciate the comments so far but adding the "why" would be even more helpful.

wm

A large volume of Mr. Hoyt's work is boring, rifling and lining TC barrels because they're strong and easy to work on. And as for the New Englander, they were available with an optional 12ga barrel so ya might luck up on the combo. The Tree Hawk was also available in 12ga.
 
Well, shoot. Talked to Traditions this morning and a fresh barrel is $200 plus shipping after a 4-5 month wait for a special order. Add shipping to a smith and boring and I have spent the amount for a whole new dedicated smoothie. As I have a Pedersoli 20 gauge SxS on the way anyway this idea is now moot.
Thanks for the replies!

wm
 
For those considering this approach, I did it with a T/C Renegade 50 caliber. I replaced the stock barrel with a GM drop in. Sent the original to Hoyt to be bored out to a true 20 ga, which it is. A .610 ball does the job. Cost about 100 bucks back then. Works great. Never tried it with a Spanish made barrel.

If a Spanish made barrel is a problem to work on, I would look for a used Renegade and a spare barrel. They are out there, pretty cheap.

Jeff
 
I agree with what's been said previously about getting a rifle that CAN be worked on and bored out. One that has a rusted bore and isn't worth much would be a good choice for a re-bore.
 
I agree with what's been said previously about getting a rifle that CAN be worked on and bored out. One that has a rusted bore and isn't worth much would be a good choice for a re-bore.
What are the differences between a gun that can be worked on vs one that can't? Primarily breech issues? Admittedly, finding a gun with a rust bucket barrel and otherwise decent lockwork, etc may be a better way to go.

wm
 
For those considering this approach, I did it with a T/C Renegade 50 caliber. I replaced the stock barrel with a GM drop in. Sent the original to Hoyt to be bored out to a true 20 ga, which it is. A .610 ball does the job. Cost about 100 bucks back then. Works great. Never tried it with a Spanish made barrel.

If a Spanish made barrel is a problem to work on, I would look for a used Renegade and a spare barrel. They are out there, pretty cheap.

Jeff
Used Renegade barrels have really jumped up in price in the past 6 months. Plan to spend at least $225 or more for one.
 
The why;

1- to machine a barrel, it must be a un-plugged barrel ... breech plug removed.
2- the Spanish plugs have a way they install their plug that deny's replacement.
3- the plug on your barrel is installed THEN the side drilling and tapping is performed ... through both barrel threads AND plug threads making this a once installed barrel plug impossible to re-align so these threads re-align for reinstalling the drum.
 
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