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Superfine powder difference?
- Thread starter OB One
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hanshi
Cannon
I really wouldn't claim any knowledge one way or the other concerning the #Fs that are safe or not safe, that's an individual decision. I DO agree on the superiority of the Delaware produced powder; I lost eyebrows to that superiority as a kid. 
William Lincoln
54 Cal.
I have used 4f as main charge for years- no issues. You will find the powder
is more available --and it does not clump up more than other granulations.
Not recommending to others, but that is what I use for consistent power.
is more available --and it does not clump up more than other granulations.
Not recommending to others, but that is what I use for consistent power.
Put 50 grains in barrle n shoot it...if it dunt kick like mule.. increase it, lord this bs aint rocket science....
If u dont trust it... dont shoot it?
Everyone got to make it hard n ' scientific"
Pretty simple, use light load n build up, the gun will tell you when its had " enough" its tougher than you...
Pretty simple, use light load n build up, the gun will tell you when its had " enough" its tougher than you...
Sorry im cranky, carry on by all means...lol
Brokennock
Cannon
Um,,,,, actually, historically speaking,,, it kind of is. Lol.
But, I agree with you.
I tried to suggest starting 10% below the current 3f charge, but that got drowned out with all the squaking...
William Lincoln
54 Cal.
There is a powder can museum of the DuPont family. Many cans from
1843 to 1913. I do not doubt that the f grades existed--but not on cans
back then. Looked at many cans. Now I did find an "F" accross the can is a
"G" which I think is Graphite coated -non clumping.
1843 to 1913. I do not doubt that the f grades existed--but not on cans
back then. Looked at many cans. Now I did find an "F" accross the can is a
"G" which I think is Graphite coated -non clumping.
William Lincoln
54 Cal.
Early in this thread I stated that in the Period they used F &C,, might have meant
F & G. Powder came in Fine & Course(cannon). In any case as I said both sides
might be correct--and probably are. This is an example from the powder trade
of the day. As for 4f there is huge evidence that it was a pistol powder back in the day
but was sold as "Fine Pistol Powder" which I recall being recommended for Colt
revolvers in the period of their manufacture by Colt.
F & G. Powder came in Fine & Course(cannon). In any case as I said both sides
might be correct--and probably are. This is an example from the powder trade
of the day. As for 4f there is huge evidence that it was a pistol powder back in the day
but was sold as "Fine Pistol Powder" which I recall being recommended for Colt
revolvers in the period of their manufacture by Colt.
Brokennock
Cannon
Wow, Thanks, I had no idea powder was made nearby.
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The cans should have an ink stamp on them. Was probably wiped off. I have a few cans of these and the powder shoots excellent still.
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- Joined
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Shelf life
Brokennock
Cannon
Replica as in not real black powder. I've heard that it's shelf life is limited as well maybe feed it to your garden or lawn?
William Lincoln
54 Cal.
Well that is pyrodex--so yes test some out first. Use Real Black if
hunting to be sure of killing power. Pyrodex was weaker after
several years of storage for me,--but it had been opened.
hunting to be sure of killing power. Pyrodex was weaker after
several years of storage for me,--but it had been opened.
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I'm not going to open it anytime soon, but I am curious just how weak it will be after 50 years. Was told it was from the early 70's.
William Lincoln
54 Cal.
When you do try it, record and make photos. It may be of
interest to Hodgdon too ,because they still make it.
Powder stability is an issue as many people are looking to
stock up with items that will sore well.
interest to Hodgdon too ,because they still make it.
Powder stability is an issue as many people are looking to
stock up with items that will sore well.
Pyrodex replicates the performance of black powder and is intended to be a volumetric equivalent of black powder. I would only use Pyrodex in an original firearm in a volumetric measure and reduced at least 10% from a black powder load. Be very aware that the fouling from Pyrodex is far more corrosive than black powder fouling so a very thorough cleaning is required. And Pyrodex that is that old could have a reduced performance. Be prepared by using magnum caps and don't even try using Pyrodex that old in a flint lock.
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I don't use Pyrodex in any of my old percussion guns. Only black powder. One of my friends called me a couple months ago, one that I had asked to keep a look out for some BP. He travels all over hunting. He called me and asked if I would take 4 lbs at 25$ each. He was buying bulk to get a better price. Told him sounds great to me, I will take 4 or even 10 at that price. The store he was buying from limited 10 per day, so 4 it was. I was pretty excited about the score. I should have asked a few more questions but he seemed in a hurry and I was busy when he called. I was very disappointed when he dropped it off at the house and it was RS Pyrodex. He shoots inlines and was referring to it as Black Powder. I explained to him the difference and his comment was "I have never heard that" . So counting that Original can from the 70's I now have 5 lbs in storage. I guess one day in an extreme shortage I will be forced to use it.
