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Bluing DOES INDEED work on brass. I have it used on brass for many years for aging. Where did you get the idea that bluing won't work on brass? 44-40 is nearly instant.
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Super Blue on brass...not working?
- Thread starter Birddog1911
- Start date
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Dirty cleaning patches
hanshi
Cannon
You have to degrease the brass first if you want to successfully darken it. I blackened the brass on two rifles with cold blue or maybe it was aluminum black, just can't recall which one offhand.
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William Lincoln
54 Cal.
Remember true bluing is a type of oxidation similar to rust.
Some "speed bluing" is actually a metal dye akin to a
paint or coating. Fast blue coatings should work. But will
also rub off pretty easy. I think the vinegar method would
give a molecular change to the surface via oxidation and
would last.
Some "speed bluing" is actually a metal dye akin to a
paint or coating. Fast blue coatings should work. But will
also rub off pretty easy. I think the vinegar method would
give a molecular change to the surface via oxidation and
would last.
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I wasn’t happy with BC Brass Black but I didn’t submerge tha parts in a baggie like this:
This works well.
Next I wanna try the vinegar/salt treatment, that sounds more like the look and durability I’m after.
This works well.
Next I wanna try the vinegar/salt treatment, that sounds more like the look and durability I’m after.
I use the vinegar treatment on brass and other metals that I want to age and it works well, and fast too.
A wad of paper soaked in some vinegar in an ait-tight bucket with your parts suspended away from the liquid. For iron or steel you need to monitor carefully as it can work surprisingly fast.
Soaking your parts in vinegar won't work nearly as well. The concration of acid in the fumes is much, much higher than in the solution!
A wad of paper soaked in some vinegar in an ait-tight bucket with your parts suspended away from the liquid. For iron or steel you need to monitor carefully as it can work surprisingly fast.
Soaking your parts in vinegar won't work nearly as well. The concration of acid in the fumes is much, much higher than in the solution!
Frome a Proffessional who Bronzed Thousands of yards of brass chain,Try this if you have a quantity to tarnish.
10% Hyrdochloric acid in one crock pot. 10% Hydoclophide of Ammonia in another and plenty of clear washing water. Clean your parts with lime or CTC. Dip parts in HoA and wash in Hc acid . Keep doing this until you have the desired colour . Wash off well with clean water and "lightly polish".This finish will wear for years. Look at old Powder flasks..OLD DOG..
10% Hyrdochloric acid in one crock pot. 10% Hydoclophide of Ammonia in another and plenty of clear washing water. Clean your parts with lime or CTC. Dip parts in HoA and wash in Hc acid . Keep doing this until you have the desired colour . Wash off well with clean water and "lightly polish".This finish will wear for years. Look at old Powder flasks..OLD DOG..
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Do not use ammonia on brass. It weakens the grain boundaries and causes it to crack.
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I fully stand by my post. Believe what you wish. Do what you wish. Annealing brass produces large grain size, not smaller, and weakens the brass causing it to be soft, which is good and desired in most cases. Ammonia attacks the grain boundaries, large grain or small, especially in worked brass which is small grained, and can cause it to crack. Reloaders of modern ammo beware. You may get away with cleaning brass cases with ammonia, but it is not a good idea. Ammonia based cleaners may not be as bad as straight ammonia, but were it me, I would use something else if possible.
Snapshot in Norway
40 Cal
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See how and what I did to a well worn 1851 Pietta Navy. I am happy with the result.!
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BC aluminum black works with some patience.
hanshi
Cannon
I just checked back and I did use BC cold blue to blacken the brass on two rifles. Recently I took the blackening down on one rifle so the brass would show, and it wasn't easy to take off. I worked it with sandpaper and steel wool and it's still not completely off.
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Applying the bluing with the scotchbrite pad is the best advice you got. That's what I do and it works great. A Q tip or rag leaves it splotchy. I think the fine scratches from the scotchbrite gives the bluing something to adhere to. Liberally apply WD-40 or an oil right after then polish back to your desired color.
