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Stuck bullet

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Off subject some but a friend takes his mower blades off by jacking the mower up. He called and said they were too tight so I went over. He had a bar with a 10 foot pipe on it. I said show me. He was tightening and we had to pull the deck. Took all my weight to loosen them. They were like TC plugs.
 
Bullet is fully seated! Prior to killing the charge, I added 10-grs powder in nipple-hole, didn't phase it! I soaked barrel in Kroil for 3 days, then in WD-40 for 2 days. Bullet was casted, with lube-grooves. When loading it, I lubed the bullet well, and it went down relatively easy, considering it was my third shot, without cleaning.

I can easily weld my own range-rod (3/8") with T-handle. If I can locate a 10-32 female coupling/nut, I will weld it to the end, then can screw on my bullet-puller (with brass guide).
That is the best way to do it at this point.
 
Since the bullet is out, and we have established that a .45 is sufficient for deer...only a few questions remain. 3F or 4F for the main charge? And what's the best brew to clean your rifle when we're done?
 
God, I never dreamed I would see that deer again😃😄😅😂
kind of like this on on my cam
DBC97545-0838-4147-87F7-18A805DA2874.jpeg
 
WOW!!! Excellent comments! THANK you all!

Mine's a .58 cal. I am welding a 3/8' rod with T-handle, welding on a female-adapter (10-32) coupling to end, then using commercial "bullet puller". The bullet/lead feels soft, hoping not to have to drill it.
DO NOT drill the minie --- the bullet is LEAD and it is soft and will not expand to get stuck in the grooves of the bore it will flow as it does when you are ramming it down the bore to conform to the rifling and SLIDE easily in and out if the fowling is not restricting it which seems to be the case. A ball screw puller with a brass collar to protect the bore should do the trick just use a large enough screw so that it can get a GOOD hold on that minie. Pour a LITTLE soapy water in the bore before you use the ball puller.
 
Well thanks everyone, I do appreciate all the different ideas. Before I came to this thread I was figuring in my head I was just going to use a torch on the side of the barrel making sure it does not surpass the 650deg F melting point of the lead and potentially take away from the temper of the steel. Although I was reading and it sounds like temper starts to be affected at 600 F.. hopefully won't take enough away to alter harness too much. Once up to temp hopefully compressed air will do the trick.
 
Well thanks everyone, I do appreciate all the different ideas. Before I came to this thread I was figuring in my head I was just going to use a torch on the side of the barrel making sure it does not surpass the 650deg F melting point of the lead and potentially take away from the temper of the steel. Although I was reading and it sounds like temper starts to be affected at 600 F.. hopefully won't take enough away to alter harness too much. Once up to temp hopefully compressed air will do the trick.
A little more reading done and I definitely am using a grease gun
 
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