Stuck ball

[Auldgoat]

Am in need of some help here. (Many will agree)
.490 pure lead ball, .020 pillow ticking (compressed thickness). A sparse Olive oil lube. Was trying for better accuracy and a cleaner bore. Yes, a tight fit. Dry-balled the second shot. Ball is stuck about 4" in. Realized my error as I hit the short starter but too late. I've tried an air compressor but all I got was a hissing sound from the muzzle. Sprayed the bore with a shot of PBR Blaster then tried a ball puller, but the rb won't budge. I quit that idea on the third attempt for fear of burrowing through. Tried a trickle of 4f through the touch hole (± 15 gn) and all I gots was smoke and a hiss at both ends. No movement. I'm starting to suspect I got ahold of a .495 ball from long ago but.... :surrender:
Thanks for any help you might could offer.
Will

 

[nebraska steve]

I am in the shoot it out crowd. Remove nipple or liner, trickle in about 5-10 grains in the breech, replace nipple or liner, seat the ball on the powder, cap/prime, shoot. reload this time with powder first. I do this all the time. Learned it on this forum.

 

[nebraska steve]

I guess if i read your entire post I would not have explained the procedure. Did you remember to seat the ball on the powder? 10 grains is a good charge, should launch anything you could seat.

 

[Auldgoat]

tried ramming it home but it would not go any further down than 6". Am thinking about a 3/8" steel rod and hammer from the forge. Not yet though.

 

[AK in PA]

A CO2 discharger is worth its weight in gold in cases like this.

 

[gdick]

Hi
I sympathise with your predicament having dry balled as well as a ramrod tip snapping off as I had used too dry a cleaning patch! I echo the need that you need to ensure that the ball is against the powder charge so there isn't an air space, this could cause a burst. I would use a brass rod to tap the stuck ball down to the breech, less chance of damaging your rifling.
Good luck! :thumbsup:
Reiver XXV

 

[Mickc01]

I strongly suggest a C02 discharger. They work really well. I never go to the range without mine and have had to use it a time or two. :redface:
http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/sea...rger&x=0&y=0&WTz_l=Header;Search-All+Products

 

[mooman76]

You need to get the ball in all the way. I don't think any powder charge or co2 will work otherwise. You can wrap tape every few inches or so around a steel rod so it won't damage the rifling.

 

[Auldgoat]

hmmm... the tape sounds like a good idea. will try that. (and my 2# hammer) thx
If that fails, will try soaking it overnight w/ more PB Blaster.
Will

 

[Auldgoat]

Thank you, Mooman. It worked! Without messing up the bore!
A bit of the back story- The rifle had been kept loaded (unprimed) for deer season for the past week. Had used Crisco for the lube. Fired the shot and WOW was the bore fouled! Didn't think too much about it until I dry-balled an oversized round. That ain't gonna happen again! Well, the Crisco ennyways. Again, Thanks y'all.
Will

 

[mooman76]

Good deal. :thumbsup:

 

[bpd303]

:hatsoff:
I haven't used Crisco in over 30 years, don't miss it a bit.

 

[mooman76]

:hatsoff:
I haven't used Crisco in over 30 years, don't miss it a bit.

Far from the best but it did it's job in the day.

 

[Grumpa]

I have done as birdshot recommends, but ONLY if the ball can be shoved down close upon the touch hole (you don't want to ring the barrel).

How about soaking it thoroughly (as in drenching) with a good penetrating oil, and let it soak overnight. I would think you would be able to ram the ball down the bore then. (Go easy, or you might shove the ramrod through the breech plug :grin: )

Good luck.

OOPS! Should have read further...the problem was solved.

 

[buzz]

I use crisco but how i do it is heat some up and drip my patchs
That wayit reduces the fowling

 

[slumlord44]

You might try oil through the touch hole to get lube in from the other end.

 

[don hepler]

I use a 3/8 steel rod, drilled and tapped for a brass jag. I treaded the other end for a large plastic round knob. I use a brass muzzle guide, to protect the muzzle. I guarantee, it will seat anything that can go 4" down the barrel.

 

[Dane]

Crisco is for cooking :slap:

 

[Billnpatti]

To avoid such problems in the future, I highly recommend wiping your bore after each shot. Just a damp patch wiith your favorite bore cleaning solution (water is good) will keep your bore from becoming fouled to the point that you have a repeat of this problem. Simply run the damp patch all the way into the breach and then out is all you need. Do not pump it, just in and out. You will be amazed by how easily your patched ball will seat if you will do this. :hatsoff:

 

[Stumpkiller]

Crisco was what a LOT of us started with in the 70's and few to none of us still use. When all we had to go by was two pages in the Lyman Reloading Guide, the Appendix of the Dixie Gun Works Catalog and the occasional Sam Fadala article in Outdoor Life.

Anything damp works, but some work better than others.

If you do use Crisco you should also do as Bill says and spit-wipe after every shot.