Stock Shrinkage Question

[Versanaut]

Good evening all,

A continuation of the refurbishment project I have going on with an old CVA Kentucky. Today's question has to do with stock shrinkage. I know wood will expand and contract with humidity over time. The stock of this rifle has done such over time and I am curious as to your thoughts on how to address this. The symptom is that brass spacer between the forearm and the lock-stock (Two separate parts of this rifle kit) rattles around when all assembled.
My gap is a bit more than 1/16th of an inch. I have conjured up a couple options.

1) Get some really thick brass sheet and make a new spacer (Not a real big fan of a bigger piece of brass showing)
2) Make a wood spacer (Won't match)
3)Could try to form up a new forearm... Not interested in this route.. lol Plus it probably won't match.
4) Slot the nose cap screw holes, and redo the barrel tennons to slide the forearm stock back against the spacer.

Now for the Jedi Woodworking masters out there. I have read folks have success with heating a damp/wet cloth on the wood to 'rehydrate' it. Mind trick or the real force here?

My gap is a bit more than 1/16th of an inch

Any other opinions are sought and appreciated!

B

Now for the jed

 

[brazosland]

Never owned one...but is there a way, or a reason you couldn’t, just screw the whole thing together into a solid stock?

My solutions normally start at rejecting the premise of the underlying problem...

If you had to use thicker brass you could always use a blackener on the brass to make it less visible.

 

[SDSmlf]

Without looking closely at one (too deep in the safe) I would slot the barrel under lugs to allow the wood to go where it wants to. I can’t remember if the nose cap is attached to the barrel, but believe it is. May want to let the stock float there, or possibly attach the nose cap to the stock only.

 

[Phil Coffins]

End grain of wood won’t expand any appreciable amount with any treatment. A thicker spacer is the easyest route. A 1/16” is huge gape in a gun stock. Slotting the screw slots will allow the stock to move back forward under recoil if you get it moved back. If the rifle shots well I’d just use it as is till you’re ready to get a more refined gun.
Steaming the wood works on the side grain if it’s a dent with out a sharp break.

 

[EC121]

Many years ago I assembled one of those and intentionally left the brass out. I didn't like the look of that slab of brass in the middle of the wood. I just epoxied it together with the pins in and let the barrel stick out of the nosecap a little more. Seems like I epoxied the nosecap to the wood. Then I filed all the sguare edges off the barrel channel and nosecap. Also took more wood off the ramrod channel. Might have had to slot the lugs some. Looked fine. Not much you can do to hurt one of those. A friend bought it for his son to try out. Bought it for $25 and sold it for $25.

 

[bang]

Replace the metal spacer with wood.

 

[Zonie]

Rifles having two piece stocks with a metal spacer between them are nothing new.
Here's a picture of "Old Sally", the rifle owned by Joe Meek, a real mountain man.

 

[Versanaut]

Upon really close examination, It appears the original builder slotted the wood at the nosecap to get the screws to go through. (Correct SD.. Nosecap screws threads into the barrel.) Plus the nosecap sat ever so slightly ahead of the barrel. I thought this was because the original builder just didn't finish any of the furniture (all cast marks are still on it), but now I think the gap is because the tenons were misdrilled and it was just easier to slot the forearm than the Tenons.

On a very related topic, but different firearm. I inherited a CVA Kentucky caplock pistol kit from my grandfather. It has a similar problem, but at the nosecap itself. The nosecap relief in the stock seems to start to early leaving a HUGE gap between the back of the nosecap (When fastened to the barrel) and where it is supposed to meet up with the stock. The nosecap comes predrilled. It's almost as if the cap was miss aligned when they drilled it. SO, I ordered another cap thinking it would be OK (Or not drilled at all) . Well, I'm out a couple of cheesburgers cause it has the same problem. Will send a picture later. Anyone ever braze closed holes in Brass to redrill? I happen to have a spare nosecap now to practice on. Thoughts and opinions appreciated!.

 

[SDSmlf]

If it were mine, I would ignore the nose cap until I had barrel and stock right. That means with slots in the barrel under lugs that allow at least .060” movement fore and aft. Leave or remove the spacer, your choice, you just have to get everything fitting. Then I would figure out how to attach the nose cap to just the stock. If you attach the nose cap to the barrel and pinch the stock between the barrel and the cap you are potentially asking for trouble as the stock swells and shrinks (go back to OP). No offense intended, but these guns are not worth a lot of money, maybe $125 to $225 depending on condition, and not something you will likely hurt, but they can and do shoot very well if set up correctly. More than one match has been won with the very model you have. This is a great gun to learn with as many here have.

 

[Art Caputo]

That was one of my first muzzleloaders several decades ago. A brass spacer is the easiest, approach. Brass aging solution can be toned similar close to the wood color to make the spacer less inconspicuous.

 

[Versanaut]

No offense intended,

Haha.. None taken! This rifle wasn't even a shooter when I received her. AND... you are 100% right! It's a tackdriver. The original builder just slapped it together out of the box. They did not shape the wood or finish the brass, or barrel. Only a half hearted attempt to line up the buttplate and trigger guard. Very clunky and rough. I just cleaned her up enough to get her shooting again. And now that I have some down time, I figured I could practice for a future gun build. I removed all the furniture and plugged the holes to re-drill for proper placement/fit, shaped/rounded the forestock, removed and cleaned up the barrel to be refinished, and filed and cleaned up the brass furniture. It's not going to be professional grade or anything, but it will look the part and feel better to hold. Best part is I get some low risk practice!!!

I ordered barrel tennons. Will see if I can't get the stock to kiss the brass spacer a bit better, then as you mentioned, deal with the nosecap.

Many thanks!!!!