• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Stock Inletting Question

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

James Stella

40 Cal.
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Messages
368
Reaction score
51
Last edited by a moderator:
Very fine jewelers' tools, and fine gouges. If you're going to glue it in, then glue. Pins would be better, so you'll need a pin vice and itsy bitsy drill bits. A polishing stone or wheel to polish up the ivory. Lastly, and most importantly, you'll need good light, and an ability to see the fine detail. And a decent vice or ability to hold your work. Comfortable place to sit and work. Patience is a must too, so cut out a piece of paper in your design and place it on your stock to get a good idea of what the finished piece will look like before you start gouging out wood. Odds are you will change your mind more than once.
 
You can find a lot of this stuff at places like Woodcraft and Rockler. (vices, stones, and woodworking stuff)

Hobby shops that specialize in model railroading have a lot of the fine tools, such as a pin vice and small drill bits.

For the engraving stuff, I have yet to find anyplace that's all over the place, so I resort to the web, and places like e-bay.

Then, lastly, there are the Marine stores, like West Marine for certain finishes.

There are specialty hardware stores out there that have EVERY type of bolt and screw you can imagine, but they're national, and web based. So you might very well wind up paying $4.00+ $6.00 S&H for a box of 100 #3 flathead brass screws, when you only need 2.
 
You could inlet that with a Exacto knife & a small halfround gouge & a drill.
However, with the shape & depth of that tooth, I don't see a neat way of inletting it to where it will embellish the stock, as you will most likely end up with filler around it & that will hinder the looks rather than embellish it. I think if it were me, I would put it off another 7 years & reevaluate the idea, your photo says Jan 2005. :idunno:

Those GPR's are great rifles for the $ At one time I owned 3 of them.

Keith Lisle
 
It you are really set on doing it, and as shown with the cusp facing out/up, then I suggest you get a dentist friend to cut the tooth off just below it's widest point. I've never tried to cut tooth. Maybe you could do it yourself. Google it up.

The reason I say this is I don't think you want it sticking out very far anyway and it is normal when inletting any part to have a slight draft on it. With it cut off just where the tooth starts to taper in, you won't have as much wood to remove and can inlet it so the wides portion is flush with the wood so no filler will be required around it, if done carefully. This will leave the cusp just proud of the wood.

You could even cut off a little more if you want it more flush and file a draft on it where necessary.

'Twere mine, I might just drill a hole in it and attach a rawhide lanyard or braid and hang it off my trigger guard.

I think inletting it could be easily done once cut off. Enjoy, J.D.
 
Jay, Were it mine, I would do as JD suggested, drill it and hang it. If someone asked me to do as you wish it to be done, then this is what I would do.
Brass 1/16" thick, drill and file a bevel to the contour of the tooth to a degree that lets as much of the dome of the tooth protrude as you feel looks good. Shape the perimeter of the escutcheon to whatever decorative style suits you, cut the tooth off a bit, glue it to the bezel and inlay. It is pretty cool looking tooth as viewed from the top. Good
DSCN1395.jpg

luck!!!
Robby
 
Nice Robby. Good idea using the inlay as a surround for the tooth. That would give a clean look and set it off nicely.

Achieving a file to fit it in brass is likely going to be easier than getting a nice tight fit in the wood.

Enjoy, J.D.
 
I'm confused here. No offence, but why would one want to stick a tooth in a gun stock?
Is there some kinda significance to that or was it common practice back in the day? :hmm:

just curious
 
panflash said:
No offence, but why would one want to stick a tooth in a gun stock?

YOu haven't built many things before have you? these things continue to be frustrating. During the process, they continue to seem to be saying; "bite me".

It's his way of taking out "builder's revenge" on the darn thing.
 
Consider putting that ivory on a necklace and wearing it when you shoot and hunt. I have three daughters running around with elk tooth necklaces, it brings them good luck. All my girls are pretty and in their 20's and I have no grandkids yet, so it must be working :thumbsup: . Bill
 
Back
Top