Stock crack in .32

[user 48702]

There is a crazy glue for wood you can get at certain hobby shops which seeps into the crack and then clamping the stock. I've repaired one using that stuff a couple of years ago and cannot remember the name got the idea from a wood working friend who repairs stocks. The hobby shop I got it from closed so I'll try to figure out what it's called.
The other stock was my bother in laws 6.5x55 Swede. It was in two pieces so I used an external wood glue and clamped it. He's been using it ever since with no problems. Maybe if the crack is big enough getting some glue in that crack with a feather or something like that.

The super glue (CA glue) needs to be the thin viscosity type. Titebond makes one as well as Loctite, both of which have a viscosity cps between 5 and 8. There are thinner CA glues as low as a 3 cps, but are more expensive. On hairline or thin cracks, the thin CA glues have a wicking property, almost as thin as water, and will migrate throughout the entire length, width, and depth of the crack. What I like about the thin CA glues is the fact that you can get into deep areas if needed with a hypodermic syringe.

Tightbond III is a thick glue, about as thick as Elmer's with a cps of 4,200 cps, and you will have to pry the crack open so you can get the glue in as deep as you can, then clamp.

 

[Pierre009]

The super glue (CA glue) needs to be the thin viscosity type. Titebond makes one as well as Loctite, both of which have a viscosity cps between 5 and 8. There are thinner CA glues as low as a 3 cps, but are more expensive. On hairline or thin cracks, the thin CA glues have a wicking property, almost as thin as water, and will migrate throughout the entire length, width, and depth of the crack. What I like about the thin CA glues is the fact that you can get into deep areas if needed with a hypodermic syringe.

Tightbond III is a thick glue, about as thick as Elmer's with a cps of 4,200 cps, and you will have to pry the crack open so you can get the glue in as deep as you can, then clamp.

Hey Guns,
Thanks for the reply. Do you have a name & a place that sells it??? I know Lowes & Home Depot no joy.
Semper Fi

 

[user 48702]

Hey Guns,
Thanks for the reply. Do you have a name & a place that sells it??? I know Lowes & Home Depot no joy.
Semper Fi

I use Loctite Ultra Liquid Control. Make sure it is the "thin" variety because they also make a "gel" type, which is thick like regular super glue. Lowe's, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware has it in our area. I like the fact that the bottles have a sealing twist off cap, and buttons on each side of the bottle so you can control the flow. I deal with Loctite Industrial and the glue is the same as their industrial grade. I put a link to Lowe's item number which has a good photo of the bottle. I found out about it several years ago while picking up some Parkerizing solution (Loctite also owns Henkel). The Loctite sales rep gave me several sample bottles.

Loctite Ultra Liquid Control

 

[Eric Krewson]

Zap a Gap makes a super glue that is thinner than water; I have used it on a variety of cracks in stocks. I have also filled cracks in bows with it and went on to shoot the bows that flexed through the crack for 10s of thousands of shots with no future problems. Superglue is great stuff for wood.

I always leave a small gap behind my tangs for movement to keep from cracking the wood, it is surprising how these small gaps open and close in response to the relative humidity of where you store the gun.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

This crack is common as wood dries, especially in winter when your house heater really removes the humidity from your home. This is an easy fix I deal with often. I use Star Bond ca. Glue. Be sure the tang is in place. I use a syringe to inject the glue deep into the crack, then clamp it overnight. If you don't put the tang in place, you will have to file it to fit due to the shrinkage of the wood. If when you clamp it, with the tang installed, there is still a gap that's OK. The star bond will fill the gap with the brown glue. It may take a few applications to fill the gap as it soaks into the wood and fills the gap. Once level with the top of the wood just 0000 steel wool it smooth. Then use a good furniture polish to buff it up. I use a dark brown Bri Wax which fill any scratches and low spots. It also adds moisture back into the wood. I've used this method many times. The repair is only visible if you know it's there. Semper Fi.

 

[Scota@4570]

I would add to stick tape to both side of the crack on the top of the stock. The super glue will run out when the crack is filled. I'd fill it from inside the tang inlet. Have some paper towel handy.

Hobby shops suppliers and wood working suppliers have various viscosities of CA glue and instant activator. Both are very handy to have in the shop. I use mostly medium viscosity.

When done I would glass bed it. Does the crack extend under the tang? IF so I would cut a groove side to side. Put a piece of all thread, like a machine screw shank in the groove. Put some electrical tap on the most rearward round part of the tang. Trim it neatly. That will give a tiny gap and prevent battering in the future. Glass bed the recoil surface of the tang.

 

[Pierre009]

Talking about stocks...when floating a synthetic stock after removing some of the stock does it have to be sealed??? If yes what do you seal a synthetic stock with???

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

I have a T/C Hawken that had a crack right through the area where the lock was situated. Eventually it broke in half. I glued it together with JB Weld for steel. Five years of fairly heavy use and it has shown no signs of further breakage. Got a couple of others that have cracks, but not as severe. I am going with the brass rod idea this time, but also JB Weld.

 

[Pierre009]

I've used an unthreaded brass rod with epoxy but like the idea of using a threaded brass rod, should give additional strength...this site provides a lot of good information. Never thought of using JB Weld for wood.

 

[tgfrench]

Only issue with JB WELD is it comes in clear or gray.

 

[Pierre009]

Never saw clear JB Weld...

 

[Scota@4570]

This kind of thing can be over analyzed. Any reasonable slow set epoxy is fine. I mix in some walnut sawdust for color and consistency. Devcon from the hardware store has never failed me. That said if I am going completely OCD I use this if I have some from other projects.

https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SYSTEM-...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583451676681908&psc=1
I never lacked for tiny brass or steel screw stock. IF I did a lot of this Brownells sell threaded brass screw stock for stock repair.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...repair-pins/stock-repair-pin-kit-prod617.aspxI have seen this kind of brass rod used on British military rifle repairs.

 

[lbothell]

I appreciate all the reply’s! And when I get back home from working out of town I’ll give it a try. I personally don’t think it’s bad only bc of the light loads being shot out of it and the fact it could have been from cleaning it but we don’t know for sure. If the glue doesn’t work then I’ll try the screws and possibly another method

 

[Rifleman1776]

Zap a Gap makes a super glue that is thinner than water; I have used it on a variety of cracks in stocks. I have also filled cracks in bows with it and went on to shoot the bows that flexed through the crack for 10s of thousands of shots with no future problems. Superglue is great stuff for wood.

I always leave a small gap behind my tangs for movement to keep from cracking the wood, it is surprising how these small gaps open and close in response to the relative humidity of where you store the gun.

Eric, I realize you have tons more ml experience building and repairing guns than I have. However, I have long been a tinkerer and woodworker. Super glue has it's place. But it dries brittle. I consider it very unsuitable for wood working, especially on something subject to stress, like a rifle. Gotta disagree, Bro.