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Sparks
- Thread starter WRussell
- Start date
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I have a Sony digital camera with what they call "burst mode" which takes 16 photos and sticks them together in a mosiac which I then have to cut apart in Photoshop, wherein I can save them as a gif movie. The camera allows taking gif movies, but I tried it and wasn't happy - don't remember why. The "burst mode" feature allows a choice of frame rates and I use the fastest, 1/30 sec. between frames. It would be nice to have a faster rate. Usually out of the 16 only 4 or 5 have any motion on them. Photoshop lets you select how long each frame ("layer") is displayed, so you can speed it up or slow it down.
I would think other digital cameras would have a similar feature and would love to hear of one with a faster rate.
I prop the gun so it won't move much, camera on a tripod of course, then trip the shutter and pull the trigger at the same time. I almost always get the full spark action in the 16 frames someplace.
Kinda wonky but lots of fun.
And instructive - I hadn't noticed before that the Queen Anne wasn't putting the sparks directly into the center of the pan.
Oh, and because I get the camera pretty close, I use a filter over the lense to protect it from flying flint flakes.
I would think other digital cameras would have a similar feature and would love to hear of one with a faster rate.
I prop the gun so it won't move much, camera on a tripod of course, then trip the shutter and pull the trigger at the same time. I almost always get the full spark action in the 16 frames someplace.
Kinda wonky but lots of fun.
And instructive - I hadn't noticed before that the Queen Anne wasn't putting the sparks directly into the center of the pan.
Oh, and because I get the camera pretty close, I use a filter over the lense to protect it from flying flint flakes.
k.jacobfrost
40 Cal.
Varry nice. Question, were did you get the snaphaunce? Do you know of anybody who makes them for a reasonable price?
Thanks
Thanks
Got the snaphaunce from a dealer in England. There were two up for auction in my backyard, and this one for sale at the middle of the estimate for the lower estimated auction gun (funny how things come in threes). I figured 'a bird in hand...' and bought the one for sale. The auction guns sold for twice what I paid for this one. It was an education (it has a very early type of sear, 25 faces carved or engraved in it...), and a bit of work to get going.
And no, I don't know of anyone who makes them, reasonable price or not.
Pasquenel -
What sparks??
The photos are gif movies and come thru fine on my setup and apparently others can see them, so if you only see the first frame, there's something amiss somewhere. (Computers - gotta love 'em) Do you see the animated avatars (they're gifs, too)?
And no, I don't know of anyone who makes them, reasonable price or not.
Pasquenel -
What sparks??
The photos are gif movies and come thru fine on my setup and apparently others can see them, so if you only see the first frame, there's something amiss somewhere. (Computers - gotta love 'em) Do you see the animated avatars (they're gifs, too)?
k.jacobfrost
40 Cal.
WRussell said:
Grumble
Any idea on any books or locations I could get a real good look at the inner workings of one?Frost
Well, I'd be happy to send you photos of the guts on mine. Here's one:
A good book to have (for lots of other reasons) is Claude Blair's "Pistols of the World" which is one of the amazing bargains in the gun book world, available for as little as $6 (just looked). It has drawings of the works of many different mechanisms, including 4 different snaphaunce types (but not the one I have). Blackmore's "Guns and Rifles of the World" also has drawings, but not as many and not as well done.
A good book to have (for lots of other reasons) is Claude Blair's "Pistols of the World" which is one of the amazing bargains in the gun book world, available for as little as $6 (just looked). It has drawings of the works of many different mechanisms, including 4 different snaphaunce types (but not the one I have). Blackmore's "Guns and Rifles of the World" also has drawings, but not as many and not as well done.
k.jacobfrost
40 Cal.
Nice looking lock. I just have one question. It looks like in the photo you point out two sears. Why would a lock have two of them?
Frost
P.S. Sent you a pm.
Frost
P.S. Sent you a pm.
Is there anyone else out there who gives a hoot, or shall Frost & I carry on off list?
The reason for two sears is that it evolved from the wheellock mechanism, and that's how it was done.
What I call "Sear 1" has a rounded nose so it will not stay engaged with the tumbler. The main spring will just pop it right out (this is analagous to the sear on the wheellock that goes through the plate and engages a rounded hole in the back of the wheel).
It can't pop out, however, because to do so the nose must move down, and it is pivoted on that screw in the box-looking thing behind it, which means that the other end of it must move up.
The arrow for "Sear 2" points to where a little raised hook on the back of Sear 1 engages Sear 2, which is hinged right down flush with the lock plate and sticks straight out toward the viewer in the photo. Sear 2 has to move back, allowing that little hook to move up.
The trigger is pivoted way up high in the lock, so when you pull the trigger it pushes horizontally back on Sear 2. This too is analogous to the wheellock, the only difference being that on the wheellock Sear 1 moves horizontally while this one moves vetically.
Another odd feature is that the tumbler stops by impacting the nose of the sear!. Clearly the cock should hit the top edge of the lockplate at the same time. On this lock it doesn't quite. I guess that's why they built that really sturdy box "bridle" to support the sear screw.
This sear mechanism came into use in the early 1600s, then the Italians brought it back in the 1700s to make these heavily carved fancy locks.
The reason for two sears is that it evolved from the wheellock mechanism, and that's how it was done.
What I call "Sear 1" has a rounded nose so it will not stay engaged with the tumbler. The main spring will just pop it right out (this is analagous to the sear on the wheellock that goes through the plate and engages a rounded hole in the back of the wheel).
It can't pop out, however, because to do so the nose must move down, and it is pivoted on that screw in the box-looking thing behind it, which means that the other end of it must move up.
The arrow for "Sear 2" points to where a little raised hook on the back of Sear 1 engages Sear 2, which is hinged right down flush with the lock plate and sticks straight out toward the viewer in the photo. Sear 2 has to move back, allowing that little hook to move up.
The trigger is pivoted way up high in the lock, so when you pull the trigger it pushes horizontally back on Sear 2. This too is analogous to the wheellock, the only difference being that on the wheellock Sear 1 moves horizontally while this one moves vetically.
Another odd feature is that the tumbler stops by impacting the nose of the sear!. Clearly the cock should hit the top edge of the lockplate at the same time. On this lock it doesn't quite. I guess that's why they built that really sturdy box "bridle" to support the sear screw.
This sear mechanism came into use in the early 1600s, then the Italians brought it back in the 1700s to make these heavily carved fancy locks.
Guest
Would be nice to see this post in the Pre-flint section.
CP
CP
That's what I was thinking. It started off just a bunch of miscellaneous sparkers, but now we've gone off to snaphaunces. It would be nice to get some more input on snaphaunces, particularly (for me anyway) the English variety. So I'll give it a try in the pre-flintlock section.
