Space between the barrel and the stock.

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Gooddaytoya!

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I've been reading about bedding barrels of high-powered rifles. From what I've read, it seems you want contact between the barrel and the stock, especially near the beech. So of course I got to thinking, took my barrel off and sighted down the stock where the bottom of the barrel nests. Sure enough the locking plate where the breach hook locks in holds the barrel a 16th or 3/32 off the bottom of the stocks' trough at the breech, and tapers to nothing at the front of the half stock. So I wonder, would bedding this barrel do anything worthwhile as far as performance goes? That is, in a muzzleloader, does the barrel jump or wiggle or go through some kind of harmonic motion upon firing that would require it to fit the stock tightly and perfectly? I kind of doubt it, but I just had to ask. You don't have to warn me about the dangers of using thickened epoxy between the stock and the barrel: it would be easy to glue them together or allow epoxy to run into the lock or the pin - ways, effectively ruining the gun. I know enough about using epoxy to avoid causing a disaster.
 

Stykbow

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I’m positive that I’ve seen multiple members touting the benefits of bedding ML’s. Of course I’ve seen others say it’s not necessary. Personally, I can’t see how it couldn’t help, but I’ve never done it.
 
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hawkeye2

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Bedding will improve accuracy, sometimes drastically. You can use children's modeling clay as a dam to stop the epoxy from flowing anywhere you don't want it and be sure to use a good release agent.
 

Gooddaytoya!

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Never mind guys, I found a boatload of discussions from the past on this forum discussing this very issue. We don't need to rehash all that again. I have to admit that I'm drawn to exotic projects.
 

Britsmoothy

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Eveey muzxloader I did it to shot better and with a wider range of loads.
Also make sure the nipple drum or bolster is not bearing down on the lock plate . If it is, files the lock plate to create a slight gap.
Oh and I didn't use epoxy.
I use canvass or wood veneers. No mess!
 

dave951

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All my muskets are "glass" bedded. JB weld does the job quite nicely. A light sheen of oil makes for a great release agent.
 

Gooddaytoya!

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Release agent is PVA with polished carnauba wax over it. It's worked for me in the past with big FRP layups over molds. When finished, warm water removes the PVA and ammonia removes the wax.
 
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