Smootbore round ball loads

[appalichian hunter]

I gather your a right hand shooter, are you maintaining stock to cheek weld through out and after the shot, if not it could be that dismounting or to much finger on the trigger is effecting the shot. And with no mention of charge measure it could be that your shooting to light or heavy of a charge, I shoot 80 gr. 3-F, fiber wad with olive oil, .610 ball and a ten thousands patch with a card wad over the ball, 4-f prime.

 

[Timber Wolf]

Using a .600 ball and a 0.020 patch I find tight enough in mine, what's loading yours like?

I can honestly say mine is the most reliable flintlock ignition I own out of my 3 flinters.

Thumb start and goes down smooth. My “.62” bore does measure at .630 though.

 

[Brokennock]

How do you secure the rear sight?

Correctly?
Or how did I do it?

I degreased sight and the spot on the barrel I determined I wanted it.
Then I degreased both again just to be sure. Then I used a loctite product,,, I think it's number 380 could be wrong,,, pretty sure it used to be known as Black Max.
Luckily I had marked pencil lines across the barrel flat against the sight edges exactly where I wanted the sight, the adhesive gave me no working time, once the surfaces touched,,, they were bonded.

 

[Brokennock]

I really miss Britsmoothy…

Me too

 

[Mwal]

My Coleraine barrel miced out at .618. Been shooting 80ff shot card then greased tow the .610 ball then greased tow. I am using TOTW mink oil on tow. So far this is beating all patched ball rounds although .595 with .18 pillow ticking was close. If I use just tow I increase powder to 110 grains. I do have a rear sight but poor eyes.
Mwal

 

[Mike in FL]

I'm sure this has been covered, but hey content is what keeps forums alive.

I've been working on loads with my pedersoli northwest trade gun for round ball and am getting ok accuracy but not great. Now I have been changing powder volume, it's more loading technique or method I'm not set on.

At 40 yards I'm getting about 5". Shots consistently to the right. Not really wanting to bend the barrel either.

I've tried powder, prb and bare ball then a scrunched up oversized patch over the top.

I was thinking of using a bare ball on powder and then a olive oil lubed felt wad perhaps?

 

[Mike in FL]

You will be amazed how much your groups will shrink with theaddition of a rear sight. We may believe we are holding the gun the same every shot by just using just that front blade, but see how wrong you are by installing that rear sight. Not authentic though.

 

[Bushfire]

You will be amazed how much your groups will shrink with theaddition of a rear sight. We may believe we are holding the gun the same every shot by just using just that front blade, but see how wrong you are by installing that rear sight. Not authentic though.

I drive a car and use a computer so I'm not too phased about being period correct.

Take a look at post 5 in this thread at the gun I'm thinking of buying. Has a v-notch for centering the front sight that may help with windage but not elevation.

 

[Grenadier1758]

You will be amazed how much your groups will shrink with theaddition of a rear sight. We may believe we are holding the gun the same every shot by just using just that front blade, but see how wrong you are by installing that rear sight. Not authentic though.

What the rear sight does is ensure that the cheek weld and position on the stock is consistent. So, yes, the rear sight does improve on target accuracy. Judging from all the rear sights added to many smooth bored guns in the historical period, rear sights are authentic.

NMLRA competition for smoothbores prohibits rear sights to keep competition regulation consistent.

 

[Sidney Smith]

5" at 50 yards, and I'd be out hunting and I wouldn't worry too much about it. If that's a concern, just don't take shots past about 35 or 40 yards.

Sometimes I think that too many people get worked up trying to clover leaf their groups on paper, when what they should concern themselves with, is hitting the vital zone. On a deer that's about a ten inch square. If your within 5 inches at 50 yards, you are well within the vitals.

Yes, I get the "aim small miss small" mindset, but as long as you're careful about your shots, and don't shoot at running or even walking deer, a 5 inch group at 50 yards with a smoothbore will get the job done.

 

[Mike in FL]

I'm thinking my next gun will be from TVM. A late Lancaster with a barrel longer than 42". SMOOTH BORE. I know Jack will make a smooth rifle, but I'm not sure they existed.

 

[springfield art]

I'm sure this has been covered, but hey content is what keeps forums alive.

I've been working on loads with my pedersoli northwest trade gun for round ball and am getting ok accuracy but not great. Now I have been changing powder volume, it's more loading technique or method I'm not set on.

At 40 yards I'm getting about 5". Shots consistently to the right. Not really wanting to bend the barrel either.

I've tried powder, prb and bare ball then a scrunched up oversized patch over the top.

I was thinking of using a bare ball on powder and then a olive oil lubed felt wad perhaps?

I've been intrigued with the NW Trade guns; how authentic is the Pedersoli? I know right away I'd strip and mellow out the modern finishes, and I've eyed the one from Military History; not really that interested in spending what it would take to buy a custom, unless I saw one used reasonably. Thanks.

 

[springfield art]

I'm thinking my next gun will be from TVM. A late Lancaster with a barrel longer than 42". SMOOTH BORE. I know Jack will make a smooth rifle, but I'm not sure they existed.

Wait; smooth rifles existed back in the historical days, right? I always assumed so. What say the peanut gallery?

 

[Bushfire]

I've been intrigued with the NW Trade guns; how authentic is the Pedersoli? I know right away I'd strip and mellow out the modern finishes, and I've eyed the one from Military History; not really that interested in spending what it would take to buy a custom, unless I saw one used reasonably. Thanks.

I'm not the person to ask about PC, but I can say in terms of function mine is flawless.

I have a custom .54 long rifle and the ignition on this is just as fast.

 

[Mike in FL]

Maybe Pedersoli ought not be considered "production" guns. Some few makers put out a lot of black powder firearms we all would love to own. Just because the specs of a particular model is set, changes not available, does that mean it is a production gun? ALL the Pederdolis I've seen and handled in person show perfect finish, and perfect wood to metal fit. Lock geometry seemed excellent. That said, I haven't actually fired that many. There are others who no more. A lot more. The previous gun I bought via Candles wss a double barrel 12 guage. I cannot imagine a custom builder making a more perfect gun. I shot it and shot it and shot it some more. Never did it show anything but precision.

 

[Mike in FL]

Maybe Pedersoli ought not be considered "production" guns. Some few makers put out a lot of black powder firearms we all would love to own. Just because the specs of a particular model is set, changes not available, does that mean it is a production gun? ALL the Pederdolis I've seen and handled in person show perfect finish, and perfect wood to metal fit. Lock geometry seemed excellent. That said, I haven't actually fired that many. There are others who no more. A lot more. The previous gun I bought via Candles wss a double barrel 12 guage. I cannot imagine a custom builder making a more perfect gun. I shot it and shot it and shot it some more. Never did it show anything but precision.

I mean Cabelas. Stupid auto correct.

 

[tenngun]

I mean Cabelas. Stupid auto correct.

Inventor of autocorrect passed away on Tuesday
Flowers on French fry dry

 

[Bushfire]

I've been intrigued with the NW Trade guns; how authentic is the Pedersoli? I know right away I'd strip and mellow out the modern finishes, and I've eyed the one from Military History; not really that interested in spending what it would take to buy a custom, unless I saw one used reasonably. Thanks.

I would add, I'm only looking to buy a new gun as I want a custom gun for myself. If any of my boys want to get into BP I'll give them the Trade gun. But I won't be selling her and in truth I'll still use it.

 

[flntlokr]

Wait; smooth rifles existed back in the historical days, right? I always assumed so. What say the peanut gallery?

Lots of smooth-bore arms going back centuries. They are NOT rifles. Smooth bore guns were often fitted with rear sights. Information from archaeologists' (The Missouri Archaeologist?) publication mentioned that a significant number of the trade guns found have rear sights. The Old Boys wern't dumb, and rear sights helped fill the stew pots. The usual definition of a 'trade gun' for competion forbids rear sights. If you have a rear sight, you get to shoot with the rifles; up to about 75 yard, it doesn't make much difference, but get that ball going as fast as you can! My guess is that only after the ball starts to slow down, the cushion of compressed air it is pushing breaks down, and small irregularities on the ball will catch the air, and cause the ball to stray. Much like a pitched baseball will go straight, then suddenly veer part way to the plate.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Not wrong,

If I buy this english fowler I'm looking at it has a vnotch near the breach for centreing the front sight. Can only imagine it would help.
View attachment 149277

That notch would be a rear sight. And, unfortunately, disqualify your gun from most organized smoothie competitions.
You asked about loads. My Brown Bess (of course) was a smoothie. I am a proponent of moderate loads if they work. I used 50 to 70 gr in it. With my 20 ga. fowler I used same loads.
On another forum, a feller wrote that he brings down buffler with his 20 ga., round ball and 90 gr. real bp. Do wat works for you.