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siler l&r lock

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bowkill

45 Cal.
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Does l&r make a lock with the same dimensions to fit in a pre carve siler mortis?
 
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just ordered one! sorry chambers it better be junk or you may never get that extra 40 dollars off me again...
 
The main difference I have personally seen between a Chambers and L&R or Davis lock is the "finish".

The Chambers just seems a little nicer polished, and I'm talking about the "guts", not the plate itself.

I build with more L&R locks than anything else - mostly because they have locks that match the styles I tend to build in and I have zero complaints.

But I see a Chambers lock kinda like a Rice barrel. Both are better than I will ever be capable of taking advantage of, and yes, both sell at a premium to the competition.

But if they have the product in stock that I "need when I need it", although my wallet takes a little more of a hit, they certainly do make a product that is finished that little bit nicer than the others - and I do appreciate working with something that takes less finishing/tweaking time on my part.
 
A L&R lock is not even a close comparison to the quality of a Chambers lock. :shake: I have bought close to a hundred Chambers locks & this is not a guess or a maybe, it is fact.
Every, not some, but every L&R lock I have bought had issues that took time & $ to correct. I wouldn't use one now if you gave it to me. When you build & sell rifles, the last thing you want is the customer having lock problems. They don't blame the lock Mfg., they blame the builder.chambers will do you right & take care of you later if there ever is an issue. The other companies let be down & didn't back their products.

Keith Lisle
 
I know chamber's is the best but l&r I heard are really making some fine locks now. Bumped up their game so to speak. Well see I guess. If their prices go to chamber's prices than I will use chamber's locks. I usually always take the locks apart and polish them no matter who makes them.
 
After many attempts, I will NEVER use a L &R lock again. Sloppy assembly, poor mainsprings. I even had to send back percussion locks because the mainspring wouldn't bust a cap. Went through 3 mainsprings before they sent me a forged one that would actually work, Seems like that extra $40 is pretty cheap now.
Just can't do that with a customers gun.

NEVER had a problem with a Chambers lock.
 
Birddog6 said:
A L&R lock is not even a close comparison to the quality of a Chambers lock. :shake: I have bought close to a hundred Chambers locks & this is not a guess or a maybe, it is fact.
Every, not some, but every L&R lock I have bought had issues that took time & $ to correct. I wouldn't use one now if you gave it to me. When you build & sell rifles, the last thing you want is the customer having lock problems. They don't blame the lock Mfg., they blame the builder.chambers will do you right & take care of you later if there ever is an issue. The other companies let be down & didn't back their products.

Keith Lisle

My experience as well.
 
I have used several L&R locks recently and have had no problems with them at all. I have never used a chambers lock so I can't really debate the 2 but after all the reviews I've heard people give on them they sound like the Ferrari of locks. I might have to use one on my upcoming .54 Lancaster build.

Unless someone wanted to give me one I'd use it on my current .32 hawken build.... :rotf:

sorry couldn't resist throwing that out there.
 
Unfortunately, I don't believe Chambers makes one compatible with a Hawken.

Could be wrong, but I can't think of one.
 
Dane said:
Unfortunately, I don't believe Chambers makes one compatible with a Hawken.

Could be wrong, but I can't think of one.

A Chambers Late Ketland Flintlock would be ok on a Hawken. Might have to round the rear of the lock plate a little.
 
Dane said:
Unfortunately, I don't believe Chambers makes one compatible with a Hawken.

Could be wrong, but I can't think of one.

The Siler Mountain Percussion, if you cut it for a snail breech, would be close enough to fool all but the most eagle eyed critic on most Hawken styled rifles.

Would look wrong if you were going for a Bridger, as an example, but for a (regular) Hawken, it would work.
 
I haven't built many rifles, but I used L&R caplocks for my rifles, and then when I got a bug in my bonnet, I replaced them with flintlocks.
Never a problem at all, the flints spark well, and I have instant ignition. L&R makes a lock that is interchangeable, so when I bought my caplocks, I made sure to use the ones that were.
 
Well the lock came today...looks very nice. Pretty slick not a chambers but nice. Will get her polished up.

 
The 40 bucks you save wont be worth much if there is ever a problem with the lock. Buy from the Chambers family and then you know with absolute certainty that you will always have a lock that works like it should.

A Chambers assembled lock purchased from Chambers at current market price is at least a 100 dollars undervalued.

You did not save 40 you tossed away 60 :doh:

All that said the price that L&R charges for their locks is remarkably low. Cannot think of any other commercial product where we see so many machine operations/heat treat schedules etc for such cheap money.
 
Well I am a little late with my opinion, but it's free so that's about what its worth. I just finished a rifle with a L&R lock and I have the next rifle on the bench with a Chambers lock going on it. I can compare side by side. The L&R works fine, sparks well, but needed (for me anyway) some refining. First the spring that sets the trigger Pawl was strong and made the trigger pull harder than it should be. I ground the side of the spring down to thin it and it works much better. The Chambers trigger pawl is already just as light as the modified L&R. I did not like the frizzen travel on the L&R lock. In the picture above you can see how far it flips forward. I think this tends to throw a shot off and it also makes a big twang sound. The Chambers lock frizzen only travels about 2/3rds of that amount with no twang. I heated the curly stop on the front of the frizzen and straightened it down to reduce the travel to hit the top of the spring. I also slightly ground the side of the spring to lighten the flip up. Now the L&R is very close to what the Chambers already is. These are easy changes to make and the L&R works fine, but the Chambers already comes that way. 40 bucks on top of what a rifle costs = no brainer.
 
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