side plate

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old ugly

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ordering something to fit was more dificult than making one.
-1/8" flat plate.
-paint pen the area, red is what i had, to use as sort of glue. (because it sticks good and dries quick).
-stick the template to it. (a resized image from mr google)
-hacksaw and file it out.
-drill it
-countersink it
-start finishing it.
a couple of hours work and your done.
ou
tom

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eggwelder

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LooKs good. Have not decided on a style for my little.22 yet. Being that almost all the bits, pieces and wood are coming from Newfoundland or have a connection, i`m looking for an idea in that vein.
 

Red Owl

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I see you have a pinned trigger. Did you make the trigger? Any idea on the pull weight of the triger? I am a big fan on pinned triggers because there is not much to go wrong.
 

old ugly

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I see you have a pinned trigger. Did you make the trigger? Any idea on the pull weight of the triger? I am a big fan on pinned triggers because there is not much to go wrong.
i bought the trigger blank, no plate, and made the plate and yes i pinned it through the stock.
i don't know geometry very well and just go with what has worked for me in the past. i check the location of the sear arm with a small test hole then work from there to cut the trigger channel. once i get the trigger to fit the channel and sear arm location i pick a pivot point location for the pin, i use about 3/16" it seams to give me a nice weight pull but i could not tell you how much that is, somewhere a lot less than a bess and more than a set trigger. works and feels good to me.
the hight as well as the distance of the pin changes the leverage and affects the pull but someone more knowledgeable than I will have to help you with that.
ou
 

Vaino

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Don't know your procedure for making and installing a sideplate....here's mine which has made the sideplates "look' like they belong in the allotted space. W/ the lock bolt holes drilled in, a piece of 1/8" thick brass is clamped to the sideplate side ensuring that the plate covers the bolt holes, The shankend of the drill used for the holes has an angle ground on and is put in each hole and tapped w/ a mallet to produce a "prick point".

The plate is removed and a compass scribes a circle at each prickpoint. The outline of the tail end of the sideplate is drawn so it centers on the tail of the molding. Once this outline is done, the forward portion of the outline is completed. The bottom curve of the sideplate should run parallel w/ the bottom of the stock sideplate area.

The sideplate is finished, bolted to the stock and I outline it w/ an Xacto knife and inlet. Using a purchased sideplate often makes the sideplaate look like it "doesn't" belong there. OP...you did a fine job of installing the sideplate seeing it looks like it belongs.....Fred
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old ugly

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nice!

i am inletting mine now. then a final tidy up.

the pattern was stuck on so i could file the approximate shape, then i drilled and did the counter sunk flat holes, then the final shaping so the holes would be in the correct location. you are correct i could have started with bolting the unshaped flat bar on, drill the holes and counter sink them first and work that direction.

these little projects are not that hard, the hardest part is getting started. \
ou
 
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