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mto7464

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Solved a lot of problems since the last time. FIrst off my RB's were too hard. I added too much tin and didn't think it a big problem until I tested the hardness. They came up being as hard as WW using the pencil hardness test. Casted a fresh batch with pure and just a little time added and tested it and it came out to be around 40-1 in hardness. Using the .015 patch was easier to get the ball seated. Also switched to BP instead of T7. First group of 5 rounds were about all touching at 50 yards for a group of around 2+ inches, big change. Also my patches looked good and not all chewed up. I also switched to olive oil as a lube.
Thanks for all the help, now I need to file the front sight down a bit.
 
Great! Yes the RB must be soft for the patch to grip it and allow it to rotate with the rifling. I used WW once too. I have learned to change the mixture so that they are soft enough.
 
I wish I could get out an do some shootin' but its been 92 degrees with a heat index of 114! for the last week :surrender:. I'll think I'll try to get out at 8:00am tomorrow an shoot some but even then it gets hot quick once the sun comes up. :shake: Nice shooting there, shots touching at 50 yards is a good thing! :thumbsup: .
 
How do you do the pencil hardness test on lead? I have used a pencil hardness method for paint and other wood finishes,,, But you must be talking about something different.
 
Not sure why you need to add tin to your roundball lead. Soft lead is the material of choice, and makes all that other hoopla of hardness testing unnecessary.
 
I was about to ask the same thing. Everything that I've read says that pure lead is the first, best choice for round balls. If you've got pure lead I'm puzzled why you would want to add tin.
 
Great shooting, it makes you feel good when you get one figured out, and start shooting some nice groups. I assume the Tin was help with fill out when casting.
 
Yes I added the tin to aid in fillout. I have been casting bullets for years and a little tin really helps with fill out, plus makes them purty. I just added to much since I only had it in large ingots. Might go out again this AM.
 
I've been casting pure lead RB's and Minies for around 45 years with pure lead. Never had any problem with molds not properly filling out.

If you need tin to get results, you may want to re-evaluate your casting routine.

When a mold doesn't properly fill out to yield sharply defined bullet details, either mold or casting pot isn't hot enough.
 
A little -such as you're aiming for- won't hurt a thing, and as you say, should aid in fillout if that's an issue. Only thing I can add is that fillout usually isn't an issue with RBs once you get the mold and lead heated up right. It can seem like an issue with bigger balls (over .610 in my experience), but usually turns out to be a case of still not having the lead and mold blocks hot enough.
 
it has just been my experience to use tin in my rifle bullets that it improves the fill out in the lube grooves and I have less rejects and very sharp bullets.
A little tin does wonders, I also use Linotype to push my velocities higher. Never got into the water dropping them since I never get to the range before they would age soften. I won't waste anymore making lead balls since there really is nothing to "fill out" with them.
 
As you know we use the tin to aid in fill out of the bases and the grease grooves of our boolits. Since the round balls have no grooves they fill out nicely with the pure lead as long as it is hot.

Bob
 

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