I have "half rounded" pistol barrels with out a lathe and frankly considering set up etc, It really did not take much more time than using a lathe. I removed the sights and mounted the barrel in a padded vise. I mounted only the rear third of the barrel. Then I draw filed the barrel corners starting at the part where the barrel stuck out of the vise. I pressed down extra hard as I got further toward the muzzle. I turned the barrel after about every thirty strokes to work on the next corner. When the flats from removing the corner at the muzzle was about half the width of a flat before fling, I turned to the next corer. Eventually, at the muzzle, the barrel looked like it had 16 sides. I started to draw file those 16 corners beginning at the one third from the breech point toward the front. Turning the barrel every ten or twenty strokes. Eventually, I had a barrel that was octagon at the breech for one third of the barrel, then the middle one third transitioned from octagon to about 32 sides and the forward third was totally round. Very little metal is removed and it takes an hour tops with a good new mill file. I have done 3 or 4 this way and even one smooth rifle barrel (on the smooth rifle, I started a 5th of the way from the breech and changed to full round by the 2/5 point.
Check out this stuff, the second tutorial in specific.How do you get that reddish color stock like on the top pistol? I like walnut but that is really appealing. I will be working with beech wood I would assume. Advise is most appreciated here.
Try here for more.Ok now,the stock I assume is beech, being a CVA. I want a reddish tent to the stock like the first picture. I got walnut stain but this one I want a little different. Need some suggestions on staining types and prcedures. Thanks guys. I am gonna make this happen. 6" it is , round grip, full stock.
It doesn't make any difference which color you put on first but I usually go with a thinned coat of my primary color (usually walnut) first and then add the "toning" color.Does the mahogany go on after the walnut or as the first coat?
Thanks in advance.
Also would reducing it 4 to 1 be good?
Is the walnut stain an oil base? If so the batter base won't go over it well, if at all.I found some Red Mahogany water based stain at Sherwin Williams locally. It is mixed at the store. I will try this. So lay down a layer of walnut then start tinting with the mahogany stain n I believe that is what you meant.
You can antique it as a well cared for original. And it is the best of both worlds.I don't know yet. I like nice finishes and blue black steel, but I also like patina and worn, handled wood. May just strip barrel, lock, let age with use. Beat the stock up a little and wear the finish down. My daddy used to say "What do you mean PATINA , boy that's RUST". Right you are pop.
Semper Fi pop.