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Sharps carbine

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Get some Tleilaxu eyes......... That way you don't have to wander the desert blind until the sandworms get ya.........
Joking aside a lot of vendors sell modern sights for most all Pendersoli products. I just did a quick search and unfortunately everyone appears to be on backorder or completely out of stock.

modern sights for pendersoli sharps carbine - Bing
 
In my carbine I had a machine shop cut dovetails front and rear and installed a Marble Bullseye rear sight and a big ivory bead Lyman front fight.
Easy to see and very accurate but not "period correct" if any one cares.
Bunk
 
I just bought a Pedersoli Sharps Carbine from DGW but have not got it yet. A better sight is also on my radar and I am looking for other advice.
I also ordered the .544 caliber ringtail bullets they sell and plan to make paper cartridges as I do with a Remingtion NMA . There doesnt seem to be a paper cartridge former kit for sale that is the right fit and I have not been able to find the Hahn tubes everyone mentions. I will just get a 1/2 dowel and add some tape to get the right size. I dont use wads on top of the powder with my .44 revolver but rather dip the finished bullet in heated lube and it seems to work ok. i plan on trying this with the sharps.
I hear a lot about the quick fouling problem of the gun and it put me off for a while. I heard Hahn or Flees repair jobs work well but have not been able to contact them. I am expecting i will need this type of service.
i would appreciate any constructive advice.
 
The ring tail bullet mold from Moose Molds make what appears to be "period correct" as does the Eras Gone Civil War Sharps bullet and both are first class products.
Originally I could get about eight to ten shots before the breech block needed a spritz of Ballistol water mix.
The Hahn Machine Works modification gives me now twenty or more shots before a spritz is needed.
Mine is the Confederate Robinson copy and originally had useless sights. I had a machine shot cut dovetails for front and rear sights.
There are some videos on making paper cartridges "Musket Matters" is one. Eras Gone bullet molds and Company D USSS also have videos on making proper "period correct" paper cartridges.
Using either Hahn or hand made tubes gives more flexibility for amount of powder charges.
I am on a learning curve on this Sharps percussion journey.
Good luck and hold center
Bunk
 
I have the same carbine and love it. The sights are terrible and I'm waiting for replacements by a gunsmith that specializes in these things. In the mean time I have made several paper cartridges and have finally perfected what I think is the best. It is not period correct but fires consistantly. Start looking for RWS caps NOW.
 
I have found that CCI C(r)aps will work fairly well by priming the nipple with a nipple primer and FFFFg powder. Perhaps FFFg will work in the nipple primer but VERY small portions of FFFg are easily crushed using non sparking tools.
With this method CCI C(r)aps work almost every time, however RWS1075 work better.
Hahn tubes come in several lengths so measure from the bullet base (seated in the chamber) to the breech face and that is the tube length. They can be trimmed shorter or an extension glued on to make one longer.
More of the learning curve
Bunk
 
thanks for all the feedback.

As I said, I assume I will have to get the Hahn or Flees mod to make the gun more reliable . I will try this phone number and check into the mod as well as the Hahn tubes.
I’m not really concerned with period authenticity . My goal is just to target shoot reliably and accurately at my range 50 and 100 yard targets .
At this point I would only be buying bullets not casting.
Also getting black powder seems to be difficult here in SW Florida so I’ve been using pyrodex RS & P for my current guns . I hope it will work with the Sharps Carbine .
I got RWS & Schuetzen musket caps.


Ron
 
I had a machine shop reduce the thickness of the removable breach face plate and used a rubber O-ring behind it. Action worked smooth as butter with minimal amount of gas leak. Kept several spare O-rings in the patch box. Seldom needed. Mine was the infantry model. Same situation.
 
thanks for all the feedback.

As I said, I assume I will have to get the Hahn or Flees mod to make the gun more reliable . I will try this phone number and check into the mod as well as the Hahn tubes.
.........
Also getting black powder seems to be difficult here in SW Florida so I’ve been using pyrodex RS & P for my current guns . I hope it will work with the Sharps Carbine .
I got RWS & Schuetzen musket caps.


Ron
Try Back Creek Gunshop in Winchester VA for powder and caps. Pyrodex is a very bad idea. Fouling is much harder than black and far more corrosive and abrasive.

I shoot a Sharps in N-SSA competition. Mine has the Flees mod along with target sights and I use Charlie’s tubes. Sharps has a steep learning curve, but if you’re not hung up on authenticity, it can quite accurate and fun to shoot.
 
Try Back Creek Gunshop in Winchester VA for powder and caps. Pyrodex is a very bad idea. Fouling is much harder than black and far more corrosive and abrasive.

I shoot a Sharps in N-SSA competition. Mine has the Flees mod along with target sights and I use Charlie’s tubes. Sharps has a steep learning curve, but if you’re not hung up on authenticity, it can quite accurate and fun to shoot.

thanks ....I debated the Sharps for quite a while due to the issues surrounding it but in the end was unable to resist getting one. lI love the history of these weapons but as i said just want to shoot it reliably and accurately at 50 and 100 yards. I dont have a problem with the paper cartridges and i understand the cleaning issues from experience with other black powder guns. I'll take your advice and secure some real black powder despite the hazmat fee ive been trying to avoid.
I got Hahns text on his tube cartridges but have not seen a website to buy the tubes yet.
 
that
I had a machine shop reduce the thickness of the removable breach face plate and used a rubber O-ring behind it. Action worked smooth as butter with minimal amount of gas leak. Kept several spare O-rings in the patch box. Seldom needed. Mine was the infantry model. Same situation.
your mod is probably beyond my skill level at the moment so i would probably need the Hahn or Flees mod done by someone with experience in such things.
 
I have found that CCI C(r)aps will work fairly well by priming the nipple with a nipple primer and FFFFg powder. Perhaps FFFg will work in the nipple primer but VERY small portions of FFFg are easily crushed using non sparking tools.
With this method CCI C(r)aps work almost every time, however RWS1075 work better.
Hahn tubes come in several lengths so measure from the bullet base (seated in the chamber) to the breech face and that is the tube length. They can be trimmed shorter or an extension glued on to make one longer.
More of the learning curve
Bunk
I got a nipple primer intended for 4F and was thinking of crushing a small amount of 3F in a porcelain mortar and pestle if needed. I saw some who say this is a bad idea but I'm not sure i understand why since there is no metal or spark involved. I mention it in case someone knows better. As of now Ill have a pretty good supply of RWS and Scheutzen musket caps so i feel ok about that anyway.
Again I bought the carbine but I assume decent sights can be put on it once I figure out more what I am doing.
 
Charlie Hahn is good folks, call him or use the contact form on his site. He can be very helpful and can advise you on which length tubes you need.

Call Jackie for the caps and powder, another good folks. He ships several times a week and knows all the laws.
540-888-3349 Back Creek Gun Shop, Winchester Va - Black Powder & Musket Caps - Goex, Swiss, & Schuetzen black powder, musket & pistol caps, lube, patches. N-SSA

Stay away from black powder subs, use RWS caps and throw away the nipple primer.

As long as your Sharps is tight you can probably get along without the breech mod but it's something you will eventually want.
 
I tried Black MZ in my carbine with the Hahn tubes and RWS musket caps with not great success. By using a nipple primer (a great tool BTW) I finally got fairly constant ignition, but what a PITA. I just went back to real Gunpowder and leave the BMZ to my percussion guns or when the conversion cylinder is installed in the unmentionable loading system powder containers..
Your mileage may, of course, vary so try it.
Hold center
Bunk
 
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