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My father was a brilliant self taught mechanic , a competitive shooter , NRA Lifetime master small bore shooter , professional machinist , and a dedicated hunter. We used our own home stocked guns , loaded all our own competition shotgun trap and rifle ammo. In 1971 , I built my first m/l gun. All modern gun competitive shooting stopped for me , as a new exciting competition began. A NMLRA sanctioned m/l club started up locally. I still get excited , thinking about shooting and creating m/l guns. My father passed at 92 yrs.. My son and I split up his tools. My son passed at 48 yrs. , and I got his share of dad's tools back. Currently , i'm passing my m/l building skills on to others , and with those skills , so go my dad's tools. Makes me feel good others will continue using this heritage...............oldwood
 
I bought some Prussian blue today. It is for fitting metal to metal, a hooked breech. The modern stuff has much less pigment than the old stuff.
 
I've built several hundred guns using old motor oil. I have a small hole drilled in my bench to hold a small spice bottle full of the oil. Dip in a brush, and coat the parts.
Using inletting black, I usually had more on my face and hands than the parts I was inletting.
 
Recieved my little jar of Jarrows inletting black. I doubt that I'll ever go back to using a Sharpie! This stuff is wonderful! If there is a high spot, it will show it. It only takes a very little bit of it!
 
Personally use Prussian Blue on a toothbrush. When I was married, stealing one of those was no problem. OK, not much of a problem. Could be why I am no longer married???
At any rate, I use it very sparingly. For a good view of how Jarrow's, or other colorants, are used, watch one of Bill Raby's videos on gun building. I swear that man buys a new jar for each new build!
When using it, however, you will often see a bit of the blue, black, red, gold color at the top edge of an inlet - DO NOT scrape that edge away if the barrel or other part goes on deeper into the cut inlet - you will wind up with huge gaps along the wood/metal interface. Just think that, if you are already setting the part in lower, the colored edge just shows a nice, tight fit. And you do not necessarily need a thick coating of the colorant - just the faintest trace will show, especially with maple, which is a very light colored wood.
 

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