Sharpie

[pooch156]

I've used a black magic marker as a substitute for inletting black on three builds and . . . it worked. The problem with that is that it builds up on the part being inletted & hardens and must be cleaned off periodically otherwise you won't get good/accurate transfer. Finally broke down and ordered a jar of Jarrow's inletting black from TOTW this AM.

 

[SDSmlf]

Another easy option is Prussian Blue, available at your local auto parts store, maybe $5 - $6. A tube will last a long time.

 

[user 48679]

I use light coats of $1 tubes of women's red lipstick from a Dollar Store...……...

 

[Cruzatte]

I've used some sort of indelible ink (Sharpie, magic marker) as a substitute for Dykem once or twice.

 

[rchas]

soot from a candle or oil lamp.

 

[Jim Wag]

I use light coats of $1 tubes of women's red lipstick from a Dollar Store...……...

Wife
Wants me to try her
Frosted Majenta

Jim in La Luz

 

[Scota@4570]

After doing this for 40 years m opinion is that Sharpie is better than wet substances for almost all inletting. It is pressure sensitive thus avoiding false marks and a big mess. To remove it from the metal use solvent. Acetone, nail polish remover, alcohol, and lacquer thinner all work.

For a few jobs, where you can not get sufficient pressure to transfer the sharpie mark, I do use wet substances. But plates are one such job.

 

[Spikebuck]

Instead of a "sharpie" that requires some kind of solvent to remove, try a Dry Erase black marker for white boards. Transfers the same way, but you can just wipe it off the metal part with a dry cloth.

 

[1950DAVE]

Candle soot, wipes off with a tissue.
Dave

 

[Zonie]

Instead of a "sharpie" that requires some kind of solvent to remove, try a Dry Erase black marker for white boards. Transfers the same way, but you can just wipe it off the metal part with a dry cloth.

Excellent suggestion.

I see that Target has them @ $4.50 for 4 of the pens.

One of the most important things about in-letting black or whatever is used is that it stays soft so it can be transferred to anything that touches it.
Because Sharpie pens are made to almost dry immediately I doubt that they would meet this requirement.

While I'm talking about in-letting parts using black to show areas that need to be removed, don't forget to closely check the metal part with the black on it.
Look for little areas where the black was rubbed off.
I've found that sometimes the area where this happened was so small, the black didn't really appear on the wood. This is especially true with the rough cast surfaces that are on the inside of a butt plate. Although the area of interference was small, it was enough to keep the butt plate from seating down against the wood and removing the wood where this happens can often save the day.

 

[BadDaditood]

That little jar of Jarrows lasts a very long time because you don’t need much. Someone suggested a toothbrush which is good at spreading it real thin.
But it is just as messy as NevrSeize thread compound... that stuff will wind up inside your damn boots if you’re not careful !!

 

[Zonie]

I've always used a paint brush to apply the Jerrows Inletting black. The kind sold at hobby shops and hardware stores for painting model cars and airplanes.

It only takes a "touch" of black on the tip of the brush to get enough of it and the brush easily spreads it out into a very even, thin coating.

 

[ord sgt]

I have both Prussian blue and a tube of wife's old lipstick (I asked). Both are on my bench right now.

 

[oldwood]

Since the early 1970's , used Jerrow's. I'm on my 4th jar. Have used wooden shaft Q-tips sense the beginning. And yup , a bar of Lava soap , and surgery hand cleaning brush makes hand cleaning easy. I don't put the lid back on after use , but just dump a drop of oil in the jar to rejuvenate the consistency.

 

[Spikebuck]

One of the most important things about in-letting black or whatever is used is that it stays soft so it can be transferred to anything that touches it.
Because Sharpie pens are made to almost dry immediately I doubt that they would meet this requirement.

This is an issue. While I like the dry erase markers, I find they work best on flat smooth surfaces I can apply the marker to "heavily wet" and instantly press it in place to mark. If it dries it can still mark as the dried marker will "flake" off the part and stick to the wood, but it's not quite as reliable.

Net, I use the dry erase for some inletting and jarrows for others.

 

[oldwood]

Reassessing my earlier comment about using Jerrow's Inletting black..........I apply with wooden Q-tip , sparingly. Use it for all except gun barrels. Around the breech end , ok , but for the length of the barrel , seems too messy. So , there I favor the very fat crayons on the under side of the barrel , using light colors for dark woods , like walnut , and dark crayons for light woods , like maple. Most any solvent removes the wax from the metal with little effort. .......oldwood

 

[Robin Henderson]

I use Prussian blue as well... applying it sparingly with an old tooth brush.

 

[barracudadave67]

Bright red lipstick works for me. You just have to do a little explaning, when at the check out counter withit, HaHa .

Dave

 

[Eterry]

I use light coats of $1 tubes of women's red lipstick from a Dollar Store...……...

In 1979 my shop teacher told us to ask mom for some red lipstick, for inletting . I now ask the wife for what she isnt using anymore...also use dykem blue on metal parts, candle soot. it depends.

 

[TFoley]

Another easy option is Prussian Blue, available at your local auto parts store, maybe $5 - $6. A tube will last a long time. View attachment 78952

My dad died in 1971. Among his little stash of hand tools, most of them home-made, was a half-used tube just like that.

I'm still using it.