Satin final coat

[Texas Gil]

I’m finished with my true oil stock but after curing for 4 weeks it is too shiny and very ease to scratch. I want to put a final coat of satin finish polyurethane on it. Will that work or mess up the true oil? Suggestions please ?

 

[Ames]

Just dumb down the shine left by the tru oil. A scrap of denim or 0000 steel wool worked S L O W L Y to take only the shine off the finish.

 

[64Springer]

If it scratches easily, it's not fully cured. Don't attempt rubbing it back while the finish is soft. There's a very good chance the finish will gum up on you.

Why use Tru-Oil if you're going to apply poly?

The Tru-Oil is the top coat. No need for poly. And the finishes may not be compatible.

Place your stock in a warm and dry area for as long as it takes to cure. Not dry to the touch. But to cure. Then all will be well.

 

[rafterob]

Poly is like talking about Dremel tools around here

 

[Texas Gil]

It has 5 coats each dried for 2 weeks before the next coat. the final has been drying/curing for at least a month. Feels very hard to the touch but the gun got knocked over to the floor and it has a few dings the I think shouldn't be there. Maybe it just needs more time like some have suggested.

 

[Robby]

If you can smell it, it's still curing. Satin finishes contain silicates that give it that look and also hide some of the wood grain. I have made my own varnishes and they all dry to a hard shine, Time, Patience, and usage like normal care and cleaning rendered them to a nice soft glow after some good quality wax.
Robby

 

[Texas Gil]

My stock had very ugly wood so I stained it a dark red Mahogany and the grain is not visible. So if I can't smell the true oil its cured and I can apply a good wax. Is that correct?

 

[[email protected]]

It should be hard and dry cured hard by now. Sounds like you floated a bunch of hardware store stain on top of the wood? If so you built the finish on a bad foundation. At any rate I take it off with solvent. Clean the stock thoroughly with solvent then stain with dye stain from Track or Cambers. Let the solvents from the stain completely gas off before applying finish. See my other posts for how I finish a ML stock.

 

[chorizo]

After your oil has dried use rotten stone to take the sheen off. Steel wool with not leave you with what you want. After rotten stone you can use wax to protect the finish and give it some depth

https://smile.amazon.com/Lb-Rottenstone-Polish-Finish/dp/B008H4L5FU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1356VIIBPXHDD&keywords=rotten+stone+finish&qid=1675102496&sprefix=rotten+stone%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-1

 

[Texas Gil]

Fiebings leather dye on the wood works perfectly. Im just going to let it cure longer.

 

[pwbsmokey]

I’m finished with my true oil stock but after curing for 4 weeks it is too shiny and very ease to scratch. I want to put a final coat of satin finish polyurethane on it. Will that work or mess up the true oil? Suggestions please ?

Birchwood Casey make a product called Stock Conditioner. It is basically rubbing compound. It works great for knocking back the gloss

 

[Texas Gil]

Birchwood Casey make a product called Stock Conditioner. It is basically rubbing compound. It works great for knocking back the gloss

Thanks I forgot about that. Good idea

 

[Tyler L]

It has 5 coats each dried for 2 weeks before the next coat. the final has been drying/curing for at least a month. Feels very hard to the touch but the gun got knocked over to the floor and it has a few dings the I think shouldn't be there. Maybe it just needs more time like some have suggested.

2 weeks between coats? It's as dry as it's ever going to get. I think you're expecting too much; no oil finish is going to protect from a drop on the floor.

 

[TDM]

The wood will get dinged no matter what the finish just through normal use. No matter how careful you are, after a few shooting and cleaning sessions your going to get dings.

 

[Jedidiah]

It has 5 coats each dried for 2 weeks before the next coat. the final has been drying/curing for at least a month. Feels very hard to the touch but the gun got knocked over to the floor and it has a few dings the I think shouldn't be there. Maybe it just needs more time like some have suggested.

I am not sure any "oil" finish will prevent dings etc?

 

[Texas Gil]

Thanks for all the helpful comments.

 

[Century to late]

What's temps are you working at? Cure for most coatings @ 70° is 7-10 days humidity is another factor in the mix. Correct on the poly its not friends with other coatings and doesn't go well on muzzleloaders. How thick are your coats? Many nice thin coats will please the eye. My last final coat is applied with burlap and buffed or burnished then wipe off excess finish. Let sit a week if possible.

 

[TDM]

This time of year I keep a small infrared heat going close by to where the stock is hanging for most of each day. Only way for it to dry.

 

[Texas Gil]

What's temps are you working at? Cure for most coatings @ 70° is 7-10 days humidity is another factor in the mix. Correct on the poly its not friends with other coatings and doesn't go well on muzzleloaders. How thick are your coats? Many nice thin coats will please the eye. My last final coat is applied with burlap and buffed or burnished then wipe off excess finish. Let sit a week if possible.

70 degrees, 5 thin coats true oil dried week between coats, your process is very close to what I did. I got a great gloss finish and knocked it down some with coarse cloth. It's now still a little glossy for my taste. I'm going try the Birchwood casey stock sheen to dull it down some next. Then a good wax.

 

[Century to late]

Sounds great! Send pictures when you're done with it. That's great thing about this craft so many ways to get the same outcome.