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Rust stopping oil

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Why use a rope?

"Salt Silica packets dropped down the bore can prevent moisture build up." That has to be a lot of fun when they get stuck in the bore to get out.

I’m not one to preach common sense but unfortunately I have to.

Well obviously you’d make sure you don’t get it stuck down the barrel, that’s pretty pretty obvious. Now there’s a few ways to accomplish that, one is to unbreech the barrel and push it out or two is to use a much smaller packet than the bore which falls right out.

The rope or bore snake if you want to call it absorbs the moisture.

Anything else you need literally spelled out ?

Be well.
 
I’m not one to preach common sense but unfortunately I have to.

Well obviously you’d make sure you don’t get it stuck down the barrel, that’s pretty pretty obvious. Now there’s a few ways to accomplish that, one is to unbreech the barrel and push it out or two is to use a much smaller packet than the bore which falls right out.

The rope or bore snake if you want to call it absorbs the moisture.

Anything else you need literally spelled out ?

Be well.

Terrible advice for the general public, in my opinion. Fraught with pitfalls.
I'd be happy to spell out the pitfalls if anyone likes.
 
"Well obviously you’d make sure you don’t get it stuck down the barrel, that’s pretty pretty obvious. Now there’s a few ways to accomplish that, one is to unbreech the barrel and push it out or two is to use a much smaller packet than the bore which falls right out."

Okay, you drop the silica packet down the barrel and it gets stuck. Next you attempt to get it out and manage to break open the packet, now you have a stuck packet and loose granules of silica in the barrel. Some how this does not make much since to me.

Much easier ways to dry moisture out of a barrel.
 
"Well obviously you’d make sure you don’t get it stuck down the barrel, that’s pretty pretty obvious. Now there’s a few ways to accomplish that, one is to unbreech the barrel and push it out or two is to use a much smaller packet than the bore which falls right out."

Okay, you drop the silica packet down the barrel and it gets stuck. Next you attempt to get it out and manage to break open the packet, now you have a stuck packet and loose granules of silica in the barrel. Some how this does not make much since to me.

Much easier ways to dry moisture out of a barrel.

I use those small packets in my guns, they come in pill containers and sometimes in a small drum. My father would keep them in his tool box too. They work well in preventing rust in small spaces. I’ve never broken one.
 
Much easier ways to dry moisture out of a barrel.

Yep!, Alcohol.
479f5ec3dc9832d2758b6feb9822b982.png
 
If this was my rifle I would take measures to kill the rust. 1st I would thoroughly scrub, clean and dry the barrel. Then I would tape the outside of the barrel so that no moisture could touch it.

I would seal the nipple channel with a nipple that I had sacrificed, by crushing it's cap end tight, to prevent any moisture from leaking through it.
Then I would stand the barrel up and fill it with Evaporust. I'd wait an 30 minutes, dump the Evaporust, scrub it with a dry brush and fill it again for 30 minutes.

Then I would dump it, clean it with water, dry it and use my favorite oil, grease, what have you, (I just use my patch lube) to coat the inside of the barrel. The Evaporust will remove the browning or bluing from the gun hence the reason for taping the barrel and plugging the channel.
 
"Well obviously you’d make sure you don’t get it stuck down the barrel, that’s pretty pretty obvious. Now there’s a few ways to accomplish that, one is to unbreech the barrel and push it out or two is to use a much smaller packet than the bore which falls right out."

Okay, you drop the silica packet down the barrel and it gets stuck. Next you attempt to get it out and manage to break open the packet, now you have a stuck packet and loose granules of silica in the barrel. Some how this does not make much since to me.

Much easier ways to dry moisture out of a barrel.

Everyone has their method of choice; we’re here to share not to call out each other stupid silly on a forum.

If said I use a curling iron to dry out my barrels it wouldn’t make a difference if worked or not.
 
SUCCESS :ghostly:

This is the patch after 5 days using the cleaning method from thread post 135 but using Barricade instead of Rig Grease.

https://ibb.co/Zzyd6Sm

So this is what worked for me personally :-

Warm water & soap patch.
Change water.
Warm water & soap patch.
Change water.
Scrub in warm water with bronze brush.
Change water.
Warm water & soap patch,
Flush with hose.
Dry with absorbent paper towel on rod.
Flush with IPA.
Dry patch.
Barricade soaked wool mop.


I know some will say my method is over the top, but it's really only a wash, a scrub and an oil. I've been having a hell of a job trying to stop the rusting in my barrel and it was just a case of working out a method and finding an oil that works for me.

So a
HUGE Thank You :thumb: to everybody that has contributed to this thread and opened my eyes to all the products I'd never heard of. As I said before, I've only been shooting BP for 6 months and your help has been very much appreciated.

Rob.
 
SUCCESS :ghostly:

This is the patch after 5 days using the cleaning method from thread post 135 but using Barricade instead of Rig Grease.

https://ibb.co/Zzyd6Sm

So this is what worked for me personally :-

Warm water & soap patch.
Change water.
Warm water & soap patch.
Change water.
Scrub in warm water with bronze brush.
Change water.
Warm water & soap patch,
Flush with hose.
Dry with absorbent paper towel on rod.
Flush with IPA.
Dry patch.
Barricade soaked wool mop.


I know some will say my method is over the top, but it's really only a wash, a scrub and an oil. I've been having a hell of a job trying to stop the rusting in my barrel and it was just a case of working out a method and finding an oil that works for me.

So a
HUGE Thank You :thumb: to everybody that has contributed to this thread and opened my eyes to all the products I'd never heard of. As I said before, I've only been shooting BP for 6 months and your help has been very much appreciated.

Rob.
Don't tell me you wasted good IPA on a barrel!
 
Silica beads whether loose or in packet form should not be touching any gun metal!

Put the salvaged silica beads in an open container set inside your firearm storage cabinet, there they will absorb moisture.

Frequently heat the can of silica in your oven to drive out the moisture then return the container to a corner of your gun cabinet.

Rope absorb moisture? Not a rope made of plastic thread like nylon, polyester, Kevlar etc. Now a cotton rope will absorb moisture. Would you want a damp cotton rope in your bore?
When it’s removed the white cotton would be rust spotted.

A light coat of a quality synthetic gun oil will keep your guns rust free for a long long time. A re-wipe every 6 months to 1 year is all that’s needed.

Long term many year storages use cosmoline, Rig grease, EEZOX Barricade in descending order of protection duration, it’s your choice.

EEZOX is great for day to day protection.
 
I agree, do not stuff things in the bore. A bore snake for instance will dry out, and promote rust. IT has been done over the years because it seems intuitive and the results can be horrible. The bore snake rusts in place, and the bore is ruined.

As far a excluding oxygen I have something to try. I have never done it, just speculation. Seal the nipple or vent. Fill the bore with argon. Put a piece of tape over the muzzle. Argon can be found in the can linked here. http://www.bloxygen.com
 
I agree, do not stuff things in the bore. A bore snake for instance will dry out, and promote rust. IT has been done over the years because it seems intuitive and the results can be horrible. The bore snake rusts in place, and the bore is ruined.

As far a excluding oxygen I have something to try. I have never done it, just speculation. Seal the nipple or vent. Fill the bore with argon. Put a piece of tape over the muzzle. Argon can be found in the can linked here. http://www.bloxygen.com

Bore snakes shouldn't be left in the bore for a long period of time, and neither should the silica. A bore snake or cotton fiber rope simply absorbs some of the moisture, after 20-30 minutes you TAKE IT OUT. The Silica helps to rid of moisture residue left over after drying with warm water. Leaving a silica packet down the bore for months or years at a time, I'm not sure what that would do or possibly cause, but I've never done that so I can't tell.

In referring to my previous post, I do this after I clean my guns, I snake the bore and put a silica packet down the bore, now I do this for an hour or less until the gun is completely dry and then I oil and grease.

These are also very large bored guns I have, my smallest is .54, which I simply use a bore mop.

If there's anything I do excessively is grease the bore, I do it more often then I should.

I've been doing this for years, I've never had a rusty pitted bore on any of my guns that are not originals.
 
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After 50 years of aircraft maintenance and corrosion prevention was always a big item to us. We would seal spare engines in airtight containers and they would have bags of Desiccant inside the container to absorb moister. There are windows with humidity test strips to show % humidity inside.
The Desiccant absorbs water/moisture. You do not want it in contact with anything you are trying to protect. It is sold in jars to rid areas of moisture, like gun safes. When it has absorbed moisture, it turns from blue to pink. Now to reuse it, I place the silica gel on a paper plate in the microwave. After about a minute on high, I open the door and let the steam out. Then do it again. Continue until it returns to blue. Now pour back into its container.
Do not pour into the barrel. (1)Oil will coat the silica and stop it from working and (2) is like a wet rag on bare metal.
For anti seize I only use Nickel base anti-seize lubricant.
For the purest you can use Milk of magnesia, it works great.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/tempest-silica-blue.php
silica-gel.php
 
We used Milk of Magnesia (MOM) for a lubricant in areas of the turbine section of the jet engines the company I worked for makes.
Where other lubricants are burned away, MOM doesn't.

That said, do not use the liquid MOM in your muzzleloader to lubricate the lock or other parts of it.
MOM consists of magnesium hydroxide and water and maybe a little flavoring. It has nothing in it to prevent rust and the water that is in it will rust up any regular steel part it is applied to.
This isn't a problem with jet engines because there basically are no regular steel parts in the turbine section. The parts are corrosion resistant alloys that maintain their strength at high temperatures so the water won't bother them.
 

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