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ruger old army subs

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For cleaning revolvers I clean the bore and cylinder and just hose down the internals with Ballistol or WD-40. Detail strip them maybe every few years, and never have any rust problems. As long as the fouling is wet with oil it can't pick up any water to cause rust.
 
Just got this 5.5” Roa…. will probably get a 45 colt cylinder for it also.
I have FFFg Goex and 777. I cast so I have a round ball mold- and maybe I’ll get a conical.

Anyone have a suggestion on a Conical Mold, custom or Elsewhere?
19A44487-F6DB-4C99-A202-72A0A072FABE.jpeg
D5920377-C6EF-49EF-AEB7-017375C5BF46.jpeg
 
Just got this 5.5” Roa…. will probably get a 45 colt cylinder for it also.
I have FFFg Goex and 777. I cast so I have a round ball mold- and maybe I’ll get a conical.

Anyone have a suggestion on a Conical Mold, custom or Elsewhere?View attachment 108464View attachment 108465
I’ve tinkered with several different conicals in my OA. None were anywhere as near as accurate as roundballs. I sold the molds because I found them a gimmick that was a waste of my time and lead.
 
I’ve tinkered with several different conicals in my OA. None were anywhere as near as accurate as roundballs. I sold the molds because I found them a gimmick that was a waste of my time and lead.
Interesting- I figured with a proper sizing die, would be able to get a conical to shoot
 
I am missing something here regarding T7 and it's corrosive condemnation ..I shot nothing but BP and Pyrodex for 40 years in my rifles ..yes cleaning was so critical you just did it before you did anything else for yourself or anybody else once in from the field ..enter Triple 7 (all I could get in 3F) and my new cap and ball adventure ..purely with T7 as the only energy source my 3 Colt cap and ball revolvers have ever digested ..I use Hoppe#9 and Casey's Bore lead Remover and finish up with 3 in one oil ..no rust no pitting and sometimes I even clean the next day or day after ....
I wonder ..could the guys who had bad cleaning/corrosive problems be running into whatever the chemical make up of Triple 7's residue be interacting with black powder residue unknowingly left from prior black powder use ???
The Triple 7 is simply not acting any different than a range session with an unmentionable ..and is cleaning up about like one too ..in fact ..the easy maintenance of T7 has me "working in" cap n ball shooting where I normally can't/won't do unless I can dedicate (if black powder or Pyrodex) a half day to the effort to load up, drive to range, shoot,drive home, then clean guns which if BP/P takes about 1/3 or more of the amount of time I actually spent at the range! ...
Bear
 
Kaido Ojama Makes molds for hunting slugs that are semi wadcutter looking bullets.
Duelist 1954 on Youtube did a series of videos using different loads for the ROA a six
part series. The Kaido slugs kicked butt. With the Kaido slugs, T-7 in the ROA you have
a whopper stopper! PS the Rugers used by Duelist were on loan from Rowdy Yates.
So I would expect they were tuned up for competition- by a pro pistol guy.
 
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I am missing something here regarding T7 and it's corrosive condemnation ..I shot nothing but BP and Pyrodex for 40 years in my rifles ..yes cleaning was so critical you just did it before you did anything else for yourself or anybody else once in from the field ..enter Triple 7 (all I could get in 3F) and my new cap and ball adventure ..purely with T7 as the only energy source my 3 Colt cap and ball revolvers have ever digested ..I use Hoppe#9 and Casey's Bore lead Remover and finish up with 3 in one oil ..no rust no pitting and sometimes I even clean the next day or day after ....
I wonder ..could the guys who had bad cleaning/corrosive problems be running into whatever the chemical make up of Triple 7's residue be interacting with black powder residue unknowingly left from prior black powder use ???
The Triple 7 is simply not acting any different than a range session with an unmentionable ..and is cleaning up about like one too ..in fact ..the easy maintenance of T7 has me "working in" cap n ball shooting where I normally can't/won't do unless I can dedicate (if black powder or Pyrodex) a half day to the effort to load up, drive to range, shoot,drive home, then clean guns which if BP/P takes about 1/3 or more of the amount of time I actually spent at the range! ...
Bear
How long have you been using triple 7 in your cap and ball revolvers with good results? (no corrosion, good ignition and easier cleanup) Thank you
 
8 months on the oldest and 6 months the newest ..range sessions on average every 10 days ..oldest C&B 4/500 rds ..last two 200 and 300
Understand I'm not saying you don't have to clean .. just saying so far unmentionables cleaning products and processes appear to be adequate
Took the oldest one apart to get a cap frag out and the innards were a bit dirtier than a central fire but not really a crash site ..certainly from what was seen internally would not have prompted me to fill it with grease
I may very well be condemning these 3 Colts to hell but so far they and I are OK with how things are going

Bear
 
Forgot to answer the ignition question ..one misfire from a crooked cap ..otherwise perfect ..including my home made caps whose priming compound is 3 toy cap gun dots (dots are corrosive and require immediate after field cleaning) ..the "dots" ignition is slower than a hot factory cap which fires the T7 just like unmentionables

Bear
 
Just got this 5.5” Roa…. will probably get a 45 colt cylinder for it also.
I have FFFg Goex and 777. I cast so I have a round ball mold- and maybe I’ll get a conical.

Anyone have a suggestion on a Conical Mold, custom or Elsewhere?
I mostly use two bullets in the .45’s. Accurate Molds 45-195C, 45-245C. The Colts have .456” chambers so bullets for them are cast .458”. The Rugers have chambers measuring .454” and these have been cleaned up with a .454” reamer the .458” bullets do just fine with that size bullet also. I’m experimenting with 1-40 alloy currently and it’s promising so far. Accuracy is on a par with round ball.

C3E8E122-E03F-4AAC-A369-7FDD62FCE713.jpeg
B89859CD-4D72-4831-97C1-59B4565B5E1A.jpeg
 
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Has anyone here had success with a bp sub(777) in the ruger old army? I would like to avoid breaking it down everytime or packing the internals with grease. I do not mind cleaning my single shot muzzleloaders because they contain less small parts. My father's Italian cap and ball revolver eventually locked up internally and I had to clean it out and buy new parts. He is older so I am not sure what his cleaning regime was. Thanks! The Ruger has never been fired with BP. It has clean internals because I disassembled it after I bought it. It is a 1973 blued model. I have fired 45LC with a kirst coverter.

Pretty much me to to all of the above! I did have a trigger job done and that also made a huge improvement!
I actually did not clean it for 11 months 1 time after shooting it with either Pyro or 777. No rust till the 9th month and some light right discoloration starting in the end of the bore.
I attribute the lack of rust to using bore butter. Love that stuff. I know Bore Butter is not looked on with favor in the forum but I have had excellent results using it.
I spoil her now, she gets nothing but the Holy Black.
Me bad! I don't do that any more! ( lol )
 
Bore butter is the same as Chapstick in case you ever run out . . . lol.

Mike
 
Dan Pawlak, the inventor of Pyrodex, sent me some to test before it went on the market. In my ROA I could not get ignition, no way, no how. Dan was a wonderful person but I am a genuine bp guy all the way.
 
^^^ Another reason to not buy a Ruger!

I don't know about Pyrodex, but 777 works reliably in all of my non-Ruger guns.
I’ve had no failure to fire with T7 or Pyrodex in Rugers, Colts, Uberti, Remington or even Pietta’s! They’re just like black in that respect…
 
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