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Rollin' My Own.......

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To wit, about this subject; Everything I read, Every video I watch tells me to use nitrated coffee filters. But NOBODY mentions how the heck do you turn your coffee filters into nitrated ones? OK, I'm pleading dumb as a doorknob, but could someone please help me out here?
 
Commercial stump remover is commonly used.

I shoot revolvers and use cig papers (American Spirit flax) or hemp and so don't need to nitrate.
 
I agree with the cig papers. Fast n easy to roll and mine work very well indeed.

I use zigzag gummed papers and a rolling mandrel. My 36's get 21/22 grains OE 3F powder and the ball end dunked in melted bee wax/vasoline or bee wax/lard.

Fast n easy otherwise I just load lose powder n ball followed by over the ball lube.

Both ways allow me to shoot as long as I care to shoot.
 
I tried nitrating my rolling papers, but it was messy and tedious. I never had issues with the little remnants of paper anyway so I quit caring.
 
I have been using plain hair curling papers(without nitrating them) for a few years without any problem. But I just HAD to try nitrating the papers and just finished up a batch this afternoon. I hope to test them out this week to see if the added effort was worth it. As stated the process was somewhat messy but I can improve on my initial method if I like the results. I also made a few from coffee filter paper but they seemed a little thicker. We'll see.
 
I too use the curling end wrap papers. I cut my papers in half, that gives me 2 cartridges per sheet. With 25 grns Goex and a .454 ball makes a nice tight cartridge. See pic.
 

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I also use the Truewave Jumbo End Papers -- what a bargain :)
 
I'm dumb to this. How does your powder get ignited? Do you open the end before you put it in or will the cap send enough fire to burn through?
 
My two cents 'bout this...

On this video is a wrong way to nitrate the paper: the paper must absolutely dry in flat position over something like plastic sheet or so. i do this on a enough great flat glass. If you don't do like that and like in the video the nitrate (KNO³) will go with the water and fall down: benefit = lost of produce : for the paper, the flax or cord for matchlock always let it dry in flat position and never suspended over anything.
For the rest all is very simple: make a saturated solution (till the KNO³ will not solve anymore in the water) and around 120 °F and put the paper inside and after that take the paper and let it dry (on the flat plastic or glass). When it's perfectly dry and looks like glass fiber (like for polyester) your paper is right good to use...
If you don't do like that you have no reason to have a imitation of treated paper: it doesn't will burns good and an ordinary paper will burns also right.
For the rest the paper for filters is a good paper, I don't use it anymore (flax for Sharps rifle cartridges) but it is a good stuff.
For sure it is better to pierce the cartridge before to put it down the barrel, the cap can do is job or not...

Erwan.
 
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I'm dumb to this. How does your powder get ignited? Do you open the end before you put it in or will the cap send enough fire to burn through?
Normally the cap flash has no problem igniting the charge through the paper. I have heard of an occasional issue when there is multiple layers of paper (due to the way the end was folded over or when a twisted tail was used instead) but it is uncommon. Never had an issue with any of the cartridges I have made in the past.
 
desi23 said:
Normally the cap flash has no problem igniting the charge through the paper. I have heard of an occasional issue when there is multiple layers of paper (due to the way the end was folded over or when a twisted tail was used instead) but it is uncommon. Never had an issue with any of the cartridges I have made in the past.
Normally yep, but not always and the reason that also with the biggest caps RWS1081 it its not a non sens to pierce them. All my current cartridges I do for my Sharps rifle have thin and nitrated cigarette paper at the bottom and one time or an other the cap can't do his job (defect or bad lot/box), with a Sharps and paper or flax cartridges this is absolutely not a problem but wit a ML it can be a real big one: long fire or misfire...
I always take care of that problem with paper cartridges, a little hole at the bottom is more secure.
IKupECeEKMM_Amorces-RWS1081.jpg
 
Erwan
This does concern me and i will make carts with a double roll of perm paper but the bottom end will only be one layer of perm paper. I also plan on piercing the bottom as i load in hopes of the single layer tearing when rammed down. If i have too many problems i will just tear it, pour powder, then ram home, cap and fire.
DL
 
I role my 36 and 44s on a mandrel with cigarette papers non nitrated . single layer on the bottom and i poke the bottom with a vent pick to make sure of ignition i have nitrated coffee filters and they work but time consuming .
 
Normally that will be open when charging with the ramrod, that's right and you are right in the theorical good option but for the first tests it could be precautious to help the bottom to open...
For the rest here is no danger only the risk to need a bullet puller with you for the first shoots...
I found your idea pretty nice, have fun with that.. ;)

Erwan.
 
For BP shooting I use revolvers, mostly. About half the time I’ll be using pre-rolled carts. On the theory that it’s better to have it and not need it ... etc. I always carry some form of flash channel pick. I have it but very rarely need it.
 
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