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Rifle Stock Stain

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Has anyone ever heard of, or tried rubbing powdered charcoal into the pores of an unfinished stock, and then sanding lightly, staining and finishing? I am wondering how this would work to help seal the stock, and also how it might look.
 
Has anyone ever heard of, or tried rubbing powdered charcoal into the pores of an unfinished stock, and then sanding lightly, staining and finishing? I am wondering how this would work to help seal the stock, and also how it might look.
Why?
What would you hope to accomplish?
 
Why?
What would you hope to accomplish?
I was thinking that it might help seal the pores of the wood, and I was also wondering how it would look when it was finished. The idea though came to me from the technique if rubbing linseed oil onto the stock, and then sanding the stock while the oil is wet, to fill the pores, and blend them into the rest of the stock. I also like the way that wood looks when it is slightly charred, and then sanded back down leaving darkened patterns in the grain. Also I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of (or better yet have a cited source for) old timers ever doing something like this? You hear stories of old timers staining wood with things like tobacco juice, so using a mixture of charcoal dust and linseed oil or something like that, to help finish the wood and give some color at the same time, does not seem so unlikely.
 
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I was thinking that it might help seal the pores of the wood, and I was also wondering how it would look when it was finished. The idea though came to me from the technique if rubbing linseed oil onto the stock, and then sanding the stock while the oil is wet, to fill the pores, and blend them into the rest of the stock. I also like the way that wood looks when it is slightly charred, and then sanded back down leaving darkened patterns in the grain. Also I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of (or better yet have a cited source for) old timers ever doing something like this? You hear stories of old timers staining wood with things like tobacco juice, so using a mixture of charcoal dust and linseed oil or something like that, to help finish the wood and give some color at the same time, does not seem so unlikely.
Maple doesn't really need grain-filling. I have heard of linseed oil/sanding for Walnut to fill the pores. Fine carbon just sounds messy and could muddy the grain on maple. Sand, whisker, Aquafortis, blush with heat and finish with an oil varnish.
 
Maple doesn't really need grain-filling. I have heard of linseed oil/sanding for Walnut to fill the pores. Fine carbon just sounds messy and could muddy the grain on maple. Sand, whisker, Aquafortis, blush with heat and finish with an oil varnish.
I should have mentioned that I was thinking of Walnut wood, but it could also apply to other large pored wood like Ash. Also I was wondering if this or something like this was ever done as a sort of "make do" instead of using varnish?
 
I should have mentioned that I was thinking of Walnut wood, but it could also apply to other large pored wood like Ash. Also I was wondering if this or something like this was ever done as a sort of "make do" instead of using varnish?
Linseed oil alone makes a poor finish...
 
You have to slop linseed oil on then let it rest for about a month. Buff a then start a dab a day for a week then once a week for a couple of months, then once a month for at least s year. After about six months it starts looking real good.
However in misty conditions it gets sticky, in hot weather even the sweat on your hands will get sticky.
It needs be refreshed with each cleaning,only a dribble on your finger tips. To much results in fly paper. About a year old it’s as water resistant as most oil finish. Tough as nails and smells good, but it never gets past the damp stickies. You need a linseed with a drying agent.
 
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Tried BLO once and never again....it doesn't completely dry and there are so many much better finishes on the market.

I use 2 different products of 2 coats each and the total application time is 36 hrs and the stock looks like there's no finish on it and it also has very low sheen. This finish is as good as any on the market in resisting moisture.....Fred
 
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Has anyone ever heard of, or tried rubbing powdered charcoal into the pores of an unfinished stock, and then sanding lightly, staining and finishing? I am wondering how this would work to help seal the stock, and also how it might look.

You could just try it on a scrap piece - but my guess is "pretty horrible" I would think fine charcoal would work its was into the grain as well as the pores and leave you with a black mess.... :(

You should not need to fill any pores in maple. Walnut ~ depends on the piece of walnut.... some will have big pores others very tight pores.

I do not like linseed oil at all. I use either pure tung or a polymerized tung (From lee valley) when pores do need filling I use a water based filler - I saw aquafortis mentioned, I'm pretty sure that is the one I use (from Lee Valley again)

For staining - I FAR prefer dyes. they preserve the figure rather than hiding it, you can tweak a color to your liking very easily and can build a finish using multiple coats and colors :)
 
Has anyone ever heard of, or tried rubbing powdered charcoal into the pores of an unfinished stock, and then sanding lightly, staining and finishing? I am wondering how this would work to help seal the stock, and also how it might look.

Sounds like a bad idea to me. When woodworking I sometimes have to do serious sanding to remove a pencil line. That graphite really gets into the grain.
 
I've tried several stains with varying success but every stock has been finished with several handrubbed coats of linseed oil. I've never had any of them get sticky or soft no matter the weather. I have been using linseed oil for over 50 years and I personally like the results I get.
 
I've tried several stains with varying success but every stock has been finished with several handrubbed coats of linseed oil. I've never had any of them get sticky or soft no matter the weather. I have been using linseed oil for over 50 years and I personally like the results I get.
Can you please tell me exactly how you apply the linseed oil?

Thanks!
 
Each coat of Linseed Oil is handrubbed in until the friction of the rubbing causes it to get tacky. First coat is a soaking coat, keep looking for dry areas that takes it up faster. Let it dry in a warm corner or in the sunlight coming through a window. When it is no longer tacky put a small amount on the palm of your hand and rub into the stock again. Depending upon humidity and sunlight first coat will be able to recoat in 3 to 12 hours. Each coat will take less as you are slowly building up the depth of coating. In succeeding coats as they are getting thinner you may find you can do more than one in a day. The goal is to build up over a few weeks to a month or more hand rubbing each coat in until it gets tacky. If down the road it gets scratched just hand rub some more on. It will never get super hard like a varnish but it is very durable. Even a single coating will repel water and I use on outdoor chairs, shovels, hammers or what ever in my shop needs some protection.
 
Kibler has a video using bone black, which I was told is basically a milled bone charcoal. I like the affect.


It is used for antiquing a finish in much the same way that flat-black spray paint has been used. It is not used to color the wood itself. The problem is that in inexperienced hands, it doesn't look anything like antiquing but more of a mess...

What works even better is actually using the gun in the field.
 
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