rifle retrofit

[dick rankin]

I have a McCoy rifle that has the barrel attached with screws coming up thru the bottom of the thimbles. I am going to install new thimbles and pin the barrel so it will look a bit more traditionally built. I see there are at least a couple different ways of attaching a barrel lug. Simply dovetailing and adding a solid lug or, using an underlug staple. I'm a bit nervous about the staple as I'm nervous about drilling into the barrel even if very carefully done with a drill press. I have built a few guns from kits and have dovetailed underlugs in the past. Any thoughts on which might be considered best/easiest? The barrel is 42", will attaching at 3 spots be ok or should there be 4? Are there special or particular places where the barrel should be attached? Will cutting into the stock to inlet the bases of the thimbles and the lug or staples weaken the stock and/or make it more prone to split up the ramrod channel? What is best to use for pins and what is the best dia of these? Do I use one pin or two to hold the thimbles? Would it help at all to epoxy the thimbles too? Would the epoxy help strengthen the stock after inletting for the thimbles and lugs? Any tips on drilling into an already finished stock for installing the pins without messing up the stock? Sorry for all the questions and really appreciate any help, thoughts, and/or comments.

 

[LRB]

Many questions. I would dovetail the tennons, or solder them if the barrel is very slim. I don't like the staples. Too easy to drill too far. Three would be enough, four won't hurt. One pin for thimbles. Some use two for the base thimble because of the tail. For pins, I like the spring tempered music wire in 1/16", or 5/64", but simple nails can be used. It helps to have a jig for the drilling, or as I do it with a drill press using a deck center. For this you drill a 1/4" hole in the deck, using the drill press, then insert a piece of threaded steel rod that you have center pointed on the upper end. Tie it down with a nut and washer on each side. With a small drill bit in the chuck, line the two points up center to center. Mark where the hole is to be on both sides of the stock. Make a starter hole with something pointed. Set one starter hole on the point of the deck center, and drill the upper starter hole just short of coming through. It helps to have a way of holding the stock relatively rigid. Flip the stock over, and finish the hole. The first pin mount should be somewhere about center between the lock and base thimble. The front pin three, to four inches back from the muzzle, the center, kinda in between. If using four pins, just kinda spread them out sorta evenly, depending on how that works with the thimble positions.

 

[Vaino]

I prefer lugs that are only dovetailed to a depth of .035-.040. For a 42" bbl, start one lug 8-1/2" from the breech, another 3-1/2" from the muzzle and the other 2 equi distance in between. Check to see if there's interference w/ the RR pipes.4 lugs are suitable for a 42" or longer bbl. I use 1/16" dia. music wire for all pins, including RR pipes and use 1 pin per pipe, although some use 2 on the entry pipe.Also some have trouble drilling 1/16" holes and use larger pins. I make my RR pipes and shorten the attaching tab to 7/16" so the slot in the forend isn't so long. No need for epoxy but then again some use it. The pinholes in the lugs should be elongated 1/32" on both sides of the holes for wood expansion. After drilling, take a small swab w/ a similar colored stain, do the inside of the holes and then put a brown shoe polish in the holes....nearly invisible...Good luck....Fred

 

[Birddog6]

I suggest ya buy "The Gunsmiths of Grenville County" before ya do anything, & read it over well..... It will answer about 75% of your questions & have photos, diagrams, etc. to back the ideas.
:thumbsup:

 

[Birddog6]

I haven't owned a McCoy rifle in years, so I can't remember it well on the muzzle end.

You might want to look at the distance between the barrel at the muzzle & the RR & see if you have enough room for a dovetail & pin in that web between them. For some reason it seems to me those lil studs you screw the RR pipe into were kinda short. If so, you may have a issue here in depth & no room for a misdrill or you have a major problem. :hmm:

 

[Vaino]

If Birddog6 is correct that the web between the bottom of the bbl channel and RR groove is very small, then I use a piece of 1/8" thick brass mounted on end, filed to fit the .040 deep dovetail and soldered in. This should give you enough room for the pin. The Bucks County rifles I build are very slender and have only 3/32" web at the breech end and that's how I pin the lug....Fred

 

[mikemeteor]

Any chance of seeing a picture of one of those soldered brass lugs, Fred ? thanks. :hatsoff:

 

[Vaino]

Don't have any pics. Start w/ a 1/8" thick piece of brass by 3/8" long and high enough to be below the bottom of the RR groove and on the {2} 1/8" ends, file a 30 degree angle to match the 3/8" long dovetail. Push the lug sideways into the dovetail and solder. Hope this explains it....Fred

 

[dick rankin]

Really appreciate everybody's help and suggestions. I guess I don't understand why you'd solder the tenons rather than simply cut and file them out and shallowly dovetail them? My barrel is a 13/16" .45 cal, green river I believe. Also, where do I get piano wire and why is it better than say a finish nail? Thanks again.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Some hardware stores carry it. As do music repair shops. But you can also find it in Hobby stores.

"
A good source for "Piano/Music Wire" is a local or
on-line hobby shop. The "wire" is made in many-many thicknesses from about .005 inch thick to about .125 or more (1/8' thick). It is very stiff, and it is used for control rods and landing gear for model airplanes(for example). It can be bent (the thinnest sizes)
without heating, but can easily fracture if bent too far. It is basically "spring steel (i.e "springy"). It will rust. In the hobby industry (model airplanes). It comes in lengths of three feet. Some of it is also available at: www.aircraftspruce.com. "

I found that information on the internet, under Sources for Piano wire. I hope it helps.

 

[Vaino]

I don't solder lugs except on round bbls and as explained previously, on a baseless lug that enables me to pin where the web is 3/32" or less. Music wire is hardened and then drawn to spring temper and is very stiff and uniform in dia. and is the equal of larger nails. But....how much really is req'd to hold a flimsy forend to the bbl or to anchor RR pipes? I use it mainly because it saves time. Music wire can be purchased at Ace Hardware and is quite cheap...Fred

 

[AwRuuska]

It's listed in the True Value hardware store catalog also. They usually get in a truck once a week, so no shipping charge to you. I believe I saw from approx. .030? to 1/4" dia. x 36"