Rib under barr ,? On tapping

[Crow#21957]

I think I'm going to build a Ohio Vincen half stock. My only real concern is drilling and tapping the holes to screw the rib under the barrel. I have tapped for 5/40and 4/40 screws but never a blind hole. And do I need a special bit,, everytime I punch the spot and drill a hole it moves,, just enough that my rib would look silly being slight off from running straight with the barrel. Any help? Thankyou

 

[Phil Coffins]

Use a center drill to spot the hole then drill to tap size.
2351AB9E-BC95-48D1-AF61-ED9F669B56DB by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[64Springer]

Punch it.

Center drill it.

Then peck at the hole with the drill bit until the bit runs true.

I assume you're using a drill press.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I think I'm going to build a Ohio Vincen half stock. My only real concern is drilling and tapping the holes to screw the rib under the barrel. I have tapped for 5/40and 4/40 screws but never a blind hole. And do I need a special bit,, everytime I punch the spot and drill a hole it moves,, just enough that my rib would look silly being slight off from running straight with the barrel. Any help? Thankyou

Don't know your circumstances, but I solder mine. Way easier at least for me.
Larry

 

[Crow#21957]

sounds good. I soldered one. Was a little of a pain. What solder did you use and I would think you used Flux and maybe anti flux

 

[billraby]

With a straight or tapered barrel I use rivets. Swamped barrel is not going to be thick enough for rivets towards the middle so I would solder it. I prefer rivets when possible because it does leave a seam that won't take a finish. I would not use screws to attach a rib. Rivets are easier anyway.

 

[Norman Brooks]

Soldering is cheaper than buying center drills, plug taps. Also the ramrod pipes have to be soldered on to be history correct.

 

[andy52]

First off is your under rib pre-drilled and counter sunk? If so clamp it to the barrel and use it as a drilling jig. I suppose you could do this by hand but I use a drill press for those kinds of things, only thing to watch for is runout on your bit.

 

[sdilts]

I use Solder-It paste to solder on the ribs. It has the flux mixed in with the solder. You can heat it with a propane torch. Available at Home Depot or online. I've done bunches of ribs with this stuff. Super easy to use.

 

[1BadDart]

I use Solder-It paste to solder on the ribs. It has the flux mixed in with the solder. You can heat it with a propane torch. Available at Home Depot or online. I've done bunches of ribs with this stuff. Super easy to use.

Can you please describe your method?

Thanks, Justin

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

Honestly, I would hire a competent gunsmith, even though I know the procedure and have the equipment I'd need. My eyes are not so good anymore and it would be too easy to screw something up.

 

[Pete G]

Many old rifles used rivits.

 

[ord sgt]

If you decide to drill the blind holes, you will need to get a plug tap, sometimes called a bottoming tap. A standard tap will not cut the threads to the bottom of a blind hole.

 

[tallPercshooter]

Not understanding "rivets." Thought rivets required a hole clear thru the material, then peened or upset to bind parts together. How does this work with a barrel??

 

[Robby]

Solder it!
Robby

 

[Crow#21957]

Yes drill press 64springer

 

[billraby]

If you decide to drill the blind holes, you will need to get a plug tap, sometimes called a bottoming tap. A standard tap will not cut the threads to the bottom of a blind hole.

Plug tap and bottoming tap are two different things. Plug tap is for through holes and bottoming tap is for blind holes.

 

[Scota@4570]

Things can go wrong with screws and rivets. If I were ever to use screws or rivets I would super glue the rib in place for drilling. I feel that a securely soldered rib will not rust between the barrel and rib. I also think it is more secure. Finally, if you botch it, no harm or foul.

I solder ribs. Real lead solder. Tin the barrel. Tin the rib. Tin the pipes and rib. I tin the parts with as tiny ball of steel wool wetted with flux and with solder. I use needle nose pliers to hold the grape size ball of steel wool. Wash off the acid flux and use rosin flux from here on. Insert a steel rod in the pipes to hold them in place. Wire and clamp everything. I start at the muzzle with a MAPP gas torch and work my way back dabbing lead tin solder in the joints. There is no need to melt it all at once. Some like to silver solder the pipes on the rib separately. IT can make attaching the rib easier if you don't have to herd the pipes at the same time.

 

[Tyler L]

I'm going to really nitpick here, so ignore this if it's bothersome:
Center drills work OK to start from a punch mark, a lot of machinists do it, but they're intended for drilling centers for lathe work, and as a result they have rather delicate tips. It's not fun to snap one off.
What works best is a "spotting drill". A spotting drill with a 120 degree point is ideal for starting a 118 degree conventional drill bit. (If you have 135 degree drills, use a 140 degree spotting drill.)

 

[sdilts]

Can you please describe your method?

Thanks, Justin

Clean the barrel and the underside of the rib with sandpaper. Squirt the solder from the syringe onto the barrel flat and spread it around. Clamp the rib to the barrel with several C-clamps. Clamp the middle first and work to the ends. Apply heat to the whole assembly to kind of warm things up, then start heating from one end. As the solder melts keep moving towards the other end. Let it cool completely and remove the C-clamps. Forgot to mention, coat the sides of the barrel with pencil lead to keep solder from sticking where you don't want it. Makes clean-up a lot easier.