Revolver timing

[Columbus]

Was having issues with an ASM 1851 Navy ( full cock notch) and although some judicious file work now has it staying cocked and seemingly shootable the trigger pull is just too light. I ordered a new hammer from DGW and it works fine, fits well as long as the cylinder is not in place. The hammer cam on the new hammer is smaller than the old one and does not make contact with the arms on the bolt before the hand starts to move the cylinder. I looked a pictures of new bolts and the all pretty much look the same as the one that's in the gun so I'd probably have the same issue. What's the fix for this?

 

[Eutycus]

I too have an ASM 1851 Navy and will be watching this post. What exactly do you mean when you say "the trigger is just too light"?

 

[Columbus]

I too have an ASM 1851 Navy and will be watching this post. What exactly do you mean when you say "the trigger is just too light"?

It's not a hair trigger but it's close.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

For trigger work, I use a 10X eye loupe and assess the engagement surfaces and angles. Sounds like the sear nose could be buggered; where it will hold, but lets off too easily, at least by my diagnosis via cyberspsce, and based upon what you’re telling us.

Someone could have ‘rounded’ what should have been a squared edge or angle on the tip of the sear. Look closer with even a good magnifying glass.

At best, engagement surfaces should have an ever so slight positive engagement, where pulling the trigger ‘almost’ wants to rock back the hammer before it falls. WORST is negative engagement, where the hammer is sliding forward as the sear moves; this is a highly DANGEROUS condition. Look up such pictures on-line, for guidance.

 

[Columbus]

For trigger work, I use a 10X eye loupe and assess the engagement surfaces and angles. Sounds like the sear nose could be buggered; where it will hold, but lets off too easily, at least by my diagnosis via cyberspsce, and based upon what you’re telling us.

Someone could have ‘rounded’ what should have been a squared edge or angle on the tip of the sear. Look closer with even a good magnifying glass.

At best, engagement surfaces should have an ever so slight positive engagement, where pulling the trigger ‘almost’ wants to rock back the hammer before it falls. WORST is negative engagement, where the hammer is sliding forward as the sear moves; this is a highly DANGEROUS condition. Look up such pictures on-line, for guidance.

I understand that but what I want to do is fit the new hammer - since the cam is different on the new one, how do you adjust the timing?

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

You’d probbly have to replace the bolt or lengthen it. That is how bolts and hands on modern recolvers are fixed to correct timing issues. The ‘short’ or worn part is annealed, then lengthened (hammered), then fitted (cleaned up too) and re-hardened.