Revolver chain fires

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Woodnbow

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I would say replacing the sketchy pot metal Italian nipples with Treso or those Slik Shot ones will improve cap fit
Depending on the vintage and brand, the Italian nipples can be pretty soft. I’ve never experienced chain fire but I’ve only owned Uberti, Centaure and Ruger cap guns. Quality as I’ve seen it has been spotty, poor to great with Centaure, consistently good to excellent with Uberti, and consistently great with Ruger. I’ve replaced nipples a few times over the years but honestly I can’t say I’ve ever worn out a set of nipples to the point that caps didn’t fit properly. I do see erosion of the orifice, especially with full loads and heavy bullets.
None of my guns hammers contact the cones and all of the cones are tapered to fit Remington #10 caps if the don’t come that way from the factory. I’ve bought a few sets of Treso nipples and Slixshots too because everyone says they are the hot stuff. They’re fine, but I’ll spend my money elsewhere in the future, unless they’re the only nipples available.
The .44 Centaure that has given me repeated multiple chainfires on two different cylinders has minimal cylinder gap. I have never had a chainfire on any of my other percussion revolvers, so in my case, I doubt that it is due to loading procedure.
Do you still have the Centaure? Could you post pictures and dimensions of the revolver? Is it registered with the Centaure page? Honestly I don’t know if that page or group is up and running...
 

Woodnbow

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The .44 Centaure that has given me repeated multiple chainfires on two different cylinders has minimal cylinder gap. I have never had a chainfire on any of my other percussion revolvers, so in my case, I doubt that it is due to loading procedure.
Mr. Cunn, here’s a link to the 1960 NMA page. https://www.1960nma.com/first-model/
E
ven if you don’t own one of the Belgian guns, it’s an interesting story.
 

JimCunn

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Thanks, I still have it and won't be getting rid of it.
I am familiar with the Centaure website (it is still up) and have talked at length with John. I'm going to try a 3rd Model Dragoon wedge and barrel lug next (I'm having trouble finding replacements that are large enough for me to cut them down to fit the Centaure) . Everything so far has been too small.

Once I get those two issues sorted out, then I need to address the slop between the barrel and cylinder pin, and the slop between the cylinder pin and the frame. At the moment, the barrel can be rotated relative to the frame and shaken both side to side and up and down relative to the frame. The center pin has the same problem with both the frame and the barrel.
 
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Woodnbow

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They have gone up and down in value and the next one I buy won’t be leaving my possession either. They’re just such an interesting chapter in the history of the open top revolvers. Of any provenance, I love ‘me all.
 

JimCunn

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I know what you mean. I bought mine in 1963. It is a 1st Variation, 2nd Subvariation.
 

Gun Tramp

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None of my guns hammers contact the cones
Thanks for bringing this up, Woodnbow. Until recently, all I had to go by was Turner Kirkland's, "A percussion revolver hammer should never touch the nipple!" Wanted to learn more so I checked out Cumpston and Bates "Percussion Revolvers" and Morgan's "Modern Percussion Revolvers." Not a peep in either text regarding hammer/nipple clearance. Once again, I turned to this forum and not surprisingly our man Zonie had explained it in 2017 here:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/how-to-dry-fire-a-revolver.106890/#post-1430620
Oft-overlooked I suspect, and I wonder how this clearance affects cap shell fragmenting. Could the correct clearance leave a more intact shell and reduce or change the nature of gas escaping from the nipple?
 

Woodnbow

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You might be on to something. I pay close attention to this clearance and I have few issues with caps landing in the works. I don’t cock the pistol upside down or flip it sideways or anything else and when I have fired a cylinder full I have to manually remove the caps with a flick of my finger as I rotate the cylinder.
 

nkbj

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The Dance revolvers have the rear shield removed on each side of the frame.
Taking care to prevent a flash over on the front or rear end is a fine idea.
 

Stantheman86

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Would less recoil shield do more to prevent chain fires by having less for "flash" to be contained by?
 

Coot

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On the other hand, if there is a chain fire with a Dance revolver, there is no recoil shield between the shooter & the chambers on either side of the frame. Always best to wear protective eyewear but more so in this case as caps and/or hot gasses & powder coming back from the nipples are aimed directly at the shooter.
 

Woodnbow

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On the other hand, if there is a chain fire with a Dance revolver, there is no recoil shield between the shooter & the chambers on either side of the frame. Always best to wear protective eyewear but more so in this case as caps and/or hot gasses & powder coming back from the nipples are aimed directly at the shooter.
As well the capped nipples could be exposed to impact from careless handling.
 

Stantheman86

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What was the motivation of this by the original Dance & Brother?

To save Iron?
 

nkbj

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The story I read... the original revolvers were made from plate out of a boiler as opposed to casting the parts so the thickness of the plate determined the design.
 

Stantheman86

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That's fascinating, a real Wartime Expedient.

Treso nipples claim "less escaping gas" with their product , I just like them because thus far , most of my long arms have them and they just work.
 

JimCunn

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I found someone who can microweld my oversize lug dovetail closed and cut a new dovetail to fit a Uberti lug.
 

FatBack

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I found someone who can microweld my oversize lug dovetail closed and cut a new dovetail to fit a Uberti lug.
A TIG welder, no doubt. A skilled operator can weld a beer can (or steel can) right back together.
 

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