Restore or Perserve Ohio Style Percussion

[RMSLS1]

I have an old percussion rifle some folks at Muzzleloading have identified as an Ohio Style Rifle. There is a marking on the underside of the barrel and it is marked "H Worly". Overall it is in fair shape for it's age. It is missing a hammer and cap box cover. I intend to replace these. It has a Goulcher lock and TOTW has a replica.

The finish is what I would like to get input on. It has some type of varnish applied. In the worn areas, it appears to be curly maple. On the left side, the varnish is generally dark with no underlying wood showing. On the lower right side, the stock's varnish is flaking off.

Should I remove the varnish on the whole rifle? If so, how how I do this and not affect the underlying wood and stripes?

I do not think the rifle is of particular value, but I do not want to diminish the value either.

I

 

[bang]

Depends on what you plan for it.
If it's an original antique restoring it could devalue it. Don't see putting a hammer and box cover on it being more than completing it. Still those parts won't be original and what that can do to the value is the question.
I found a Henry H. Worley that was a barrel maker in Wyoming, 1857-1878.

 

[andy52]

I see a lot of potential in that rifle. I personally wouldn't go a full restoration, I'd do a barrel refresh by Bobby Hoyt, a good cleaning and replace only the parts that have to be.

 

[Tumbledown]

If you had a classic car with bad paint and rust, would you repaint it or leave it rusty?

Personally I find that finish so worn it should be redone. Do the wood and the gunsmith justice by returning it to its glory.

 

[sheriff john]

What's the lock's innards look like ? If they're salvageable, replacing the hammer and hammer screw makes sense to me if done properly - either with a hammer from the period or one "aged" to appear original. Refinishing wood/polishing metal will decrease, not increase it's value significantly. Patchbox I'd leave alone. Once patina's gone, it's gone. Neat old gun.

 

[andy52]

The capbox cover would be easy to replicate after it's made take the piece of German silver suspend it in a container add a little vinegar and the vapor will turn it just about the same as what have now in about half a day.

 

[SDSmlf]

Some folks put a lot of time and effort into trying to make a gun look like the one you have and rarely come close. Preserve what you have. Replace the missing parts. If everything is sound mechanically and the bore is good, shoot it if you want to.

 

[dave951]

I cringe when I hear of someone "restoring" an old gun. Often the patina will be scrubbed off, the stock over sanded and the original browned finish blued. They'll then put "Truoil" on the wood and I can't think of a worse choice for an old gun. If just clean gently, reline the barrel if needed, replace broken parts and shoot it. It comes by it's look honestly.

 

[user 49399]

I second what dave951 said. If that were mine, I’d do just enough to make it shootable, then shoot it a lot. I’d ten to one rather have one that looks like yours than a brand new one.

 

[RMSLS1]

What's the lock's innards look like ? If they're salvageable, replacing the hammer and hammer screw makes sense to me if done properly - either with a hammer from the period or one "aged" to appear original. Refinishing wood/polishing metal will decrease, not increase it's value significantly. Patchbox I'd leave alone. Once patina's gone, it's gone. Neat old gun.

sheriff john thanks for the input.
I have attached a picture of the innards of the lock. I do not know much about locks/innards. There are three number "7's" stamped inside? Everything seems there. It does not cock well but does catch sometimes. All the parts seem to rotate and function. The sear has been filed on and bent. The tumbler appears to be worn on the bottom at the two notches and which may cause the cock positions not to catch well.
Getting a period hammer seems difficult. I have ordered a replicate one, but would like to "age" it. I am going to try to make a cover, but not touch the box itself. The patch box appears to be pewter and is cast but not on the stock.

 

[RMSLS1]

The capbox cover would be easy to replicate after it's made take the piece of German silver suspend it in a container add a little vinegar and the vapor will turn it just about the same as what have now in about half a day.

Andy 52
I believe the cap box is made if pewter. Old pewter can contain lead. I have done a lead test and the metal does contain lead. I am planning on casting a new cap box cover and age it. Still working out the pattern for the attachment part.

 

[RMSLS1]

Some folks put a lot of time and effort into trying to make a gun look like the one you have and rarely come close. Preserve what you have. Replace the missing parts. If everything is sound mechanically and the bore is good, shoot it if you want to.

The lock mechanism needs work, but all seems there. I cannot get a good picture of the bore, so I cannot tell the condition. The end is pretty well pitted, but down bore is better. I am leaning toward making it complete/functional and leaving any finish alone. Once the patina is gone, it's gone forever.

 

[RMSLS1]

I cringe when I hear of someone "restoring" an old gun. Often the patina will be scrubbed off, the stock over sanded and the original browned finish blued. They'll then put "Truoil" on the wood and I can't think of a worse choice for an old gun. If just clean gently, reline the barrel if needed, replace broken parts and shoot it. It comes by it's look honestly.

I am leaning very much your way. This patina can never be replaced! Any idea on a value as is.

 

[dave951]

I am leaning very much your way. This patina can never be replaced! Any idea on a value as is.

Sorry, no idea on value but I do know if you have the bore relined, it really doesn't hurt it much. I'd get Bobby Hoyt's opinion on this one before doing anything irreversible.

A new hammer might be a fairly easy replacement. Check with Muzzleloaders Builder's Supply and see if they can help with the hammer.

https://muzzleloaderbuilderssupply.com/index.html

 

[andy52]

Andy 52
I believe the cap box is made if pewter. Old pewter can contain lead. I have done a lead test and the metal does contain lead. I am planning on casting a new cap box cover and age it. Still working out the pattern for the attachment part.

My mistake and I actually read that in the upper posts, I was just thinking how to age an added piece to match what is there.

 

[SDSmlf]

The lock mechanism needs work, but all seems there. I cannot get a good picture of the bore, so I cannot tell the condition. The end is pretty well pitted, but down bore is better. I am leaning toward making it complete/functional and leaving any finish alone. Once the patina is gone, it's gone forever. View attachment 113545

Might be time to invest in a borescope. Pretty good ones are out there for well under $100. I have a Teslong WiFi model that will show you more than you want to see.

 

[gemmer]

This one came to me as a .36 cal full stock. The bore was badly pitted and the fore end had a number of splits. The triggers needed work. I turned it into a half stock using the original nose cap and had it fresher out to .45 by Bobby Hoyt.

 

[RMSLS1]

Might be time to invest in a borescope. Pretty good ones are out there for well under $100. I have a Teslong WiFi model that will show you more than you want to see.

Thanks for the lead. I did not know they were this reasonable. You can get a basic one for ~$46.
--> NTG100 Borescope

 

[RMSLS1]

This one came to me as a .36 cal full stock. The bore was badly pitted and the fore end had a number of splits. The triggers needed work. I turned it into a half stock using the original nose cap and had it fresher out to .45 by Bobby Hoyt.View attachment 113631

Great looking rifle! Who did the trigger work for you? Also what is the patch box metal? Very similar to mine. Any idea of it pedigree?

 

[gemmer]

Great looking rifle! Who did the trigger work for you? Also what is the patch box metal? Very similar to mine. Any idea of it pedigree?

I did the trigger work. The patch boy is iron. Western PA or Ohio. The barrel is signed but I can't make it out.