reproducing a lock.

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andy52

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OK. Given the circumstances (like the lock shape and touch hole location) i still would go for either building a lock to fit or modifying the flint plate to a percussion. You may have to add some metal to the plate to surround the drum properly but may be less than the effort of building a new lock. Would add the drum first then modify lock to fit. Might even give it more of a Custom look in producing what would have happened back when flints went to percussion. Would love to see results.
I am leaning toward the cap lock idea it would indeed be easier to fit than the flint.
I will show photos of the gun as I finish it.
 

rickystl

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Stophel is dead on. Original unaltered ones (think Numrich or H&A Minuteman Model) have historically had very little demand and either sat on rack or sold for very little. Case in point It wasn't till the current insanity struck than several i knew of actually sold and for less than 2-3 bills each. If you have a quality barrel it deserves the rest to go with. The only drawback is this is prolly the worst time ever for projects (of any kind) due to cost and availability. I would respectfully request considering parting out what you have and acquiring a complete item that you like. From guns to autos to houses the days of saving $ via fixers is sadly over.
A bit off the subject, but your mention of the H&A Minuteman brought back a memory. Back about 1967/8 a shooter acquaintance bought a new, completed Minuteman rifle from a then local gun shop for $125.00 as I recall. The flintlock lock had a terrible reputation for not functioning reliably. Even hardening the frizzen didn't help for long. It was later determined that the flintlock's geometry was off. (I believe the Navy Arms Harpers Ferry pistol had a similar problem, but not as bad). And I recall that sometime in the early 1970's Dixie recognized the problem a came out with a drop-in replacement lock based on their own lock at the time. This made for a BIG improvement. But the Minuteman's reputation had already proceeded it. And even today when one comes up for sale, they never fetch more than 2-3 hundred dollars. But that was just one of the frustrations during the early years of factory muzzle loading replicas.

Rick
 

vintovka

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Too true. When they would fire they shot fairly well. Flint was very problematic and even hard facing the frizzen wasn't enough to guarantee good sparks if flint wasn't perfect. Also known for hammers breaking on flint and percussion which may support the geometry issue. I swear a minuteman flint sat on the rack for as long as i can remember in our LGS. Was a shock when it wasn't there very recently. When i asked owner he said "everything sells eventually" standing in front of his absolutely empty ammo shelves. heck he even sold his "antique" ammo displays and wood box that used to be full of bags of loose rounds.

If you were closer I would bolt that lock down and mill off the pan for OP in a heart beat. Get a proper drum and nipple first.
 

andy52

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If you were closer I would bolt that lock down and mill off the pan for OP in a heart beat. Get a proper drum and nipple first.


Thank you for that. I have a small milling machine so milling the pan off won't be a big deal but I'll still need to get all the parts to make it work. Before I worry too much about converting to cap I'll need to fit the barrel.
 

Scota@4570

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If you were closer I would bolt that lock down and mill off the pan for OP in a heart beat. Get a proper drum and nipple first.


Thank you for that. I have a small milling machine so milling the pan off won't be a big deal but I'll still need to get all the parts to make it work. Before I worry too much about converting to cap I'll need to fit the barrel.
Actually you need to have the lock on hand to fit the barrel. The barrel needs to be positioned properly for and aft for the drum to be supported.
 

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