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replacing lock on Pedersoli Kentucky

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I love my Pedersoli Kentucky lock. It fires just about every time. If it doesn't it is because I am firing numerous consecutive shots without paying attention to the flint until it FTF.

What powder are you using? Does the powder ignite in the pan? What flints are you using? What happens to the flints after a few shots? Are they wearing really quickly? I believe there is an answer to your Pedersoli lock and it will probably be simple.

Tap into the knowledge on here and don't get distracted by negative criticism or the real experts will shy away from your post. They are a sweet rifle, problems not withstanding.
Wow, Kapow, the man is only trying to find help with a problem and is using this forum as a tool. If the "real experts shy away" because of perceived negative comments then to what purpose is this forum?
 
Good grief, man! You have the patience of Job! I would have driven to wherever this Shaver fella lives and talked to him by hand by this time! He may be a nice guy, but he is obviously not going to fix your lock. My guess is he has lost it somewhere in his shop and hopes to run across it one day by accident. Good luck and keep us posted on your "progress" with this thing.
 
Four and a half years, that's how long Lee Shaver has had my lock. Every time I call him, he says he will get to it. Mondays are when he takes calls, so I think I will call one more time and see if anything has changed. Time to ask him to send it back to me, so I can get another expert to give it a try.

I believe I would ask him to return the lock and find someone else to work on it.
 
Does anyone know of a reliable lock that works as a replacement on the Pedersoli Kentucky long rifle?

I found a lightly used .45 and have enjoyed shooting it a lot. Only problem is the lock does not ignite the primer reliably. I lightened the frizzen spring, to no effect. Took a fine file to the face of the frizzen, also to no effect. It might fire three times in a row if I use a brand new TC synthetic flint, carefully mounted... but not always. Rarely does it fire twice in a row, no matter what I have done. At this moment, it will not fire at all, after cleaning and carefully installing a new flint.

Dry firing it in the dark reveals that few sparks make it to the pan. They go out to the side, as though the frizzen is deflecting them. I have a Lyman that fires reliably... in the dark, you can see that it's sparks go right into the pan.

I called Jim Chambers, and spoke with Mrs. C. She said they have heard that the Pedersoli locks are unreliable. They do not have a replacement lock for that model.

Anyone know of a good lock that would work in this rifle?
Hi. I have a lynmn
- MacEntyre
Hi.
Does anyone know of a reliable lock that works as a replacement on the Pedersoli Kentucky long rifle?

I found a lightly used .45 and have enjoyed shooting it a lot. Only problem is the lock does not ignite the primer reliably. I lightened the frizzen spring, to no effect. Took a fine file to the face of the frizzen, also to no effect. It might fire three times in a row if I use a brand new TC synthetic flint, carefully mounted... but not always. Rarely does it fire twice in a row, no matter what I have done. At this moment, it will not fire at all, after cleaning and carefully installing a new flint.

Dry firing it in the dark reveals that few sparks make it to the pan. They go out to the side, as though the frizzen is deflecting them. I have a Lyman that fires reliably... in the dark, you can see that it's sparks go right into the pan.

I called Jim Chambers, and spoke with Mrs. C. She said they have heard that the Pedersoli locks are unreliable. They do not have a replacement lock for that model.

Anyone know of a good lock that would work in this rifle?
Hi. I have a flintlock that did kind of the same thing, and I discovered that it worked better after I lightened the frizz and spring by reducing the thickness of it so that it wasn't under so much power. Actually the gun worked fairly good boutique in the spring come off and just closing the lid but when I did that I had to be careful for it would dump the powder. By making the spring about half thick it lengthened the life of my friends and still gave adequate sparks. I would suggest taking the palm off and tried it without a spring or maybe experiment with a rubber band for a spring. Good luck
- MacEntyre
Does anyone know of a reliable lock that works as a replacement on the Pedersoli Kentucky long rifle?

I found a lightly used .45 and have enjoyed shooting it a lot. Only problem is the lock does not ignite the primer reliably. I lightened the frizzen spring, to no effect. Took a fine file to the face of the frizzen, also to no effect. It might fire three times in a row if I use a brand new TC synthetic flint, carefully mounted... but not always. Rarely does it fire twice in a row, no matter what I have done. At this moment, it will not fire at all, after cleaning and carefully installing a new flint.

Dry firing it in the dark reveals that few sparks make it to the pan. They go out to the side, as though the frizzen is deflecting them. I have a Lyman that fires reliably... in the dark, you can see that it's sparks go right into the pan.

I called Jim Chambers, and spoke with Mrs. C. She said they have heard that the Pedersoli locks are unreliable. They do not have a replacement lock for that model.

Anyone know of a good lock that would work in this rifle?

- MacEntyre
 
I would demand that he return the lock NOW.
Chances are, he's lost it but if he hasn't, it's obvious he isn't going to fix it.
 
Does anyone know of a reliable lock that works as a replacement on the Pedersoli Kentucky long rifle?

I found a lightly used .45 and have enjoyed shooting it a lot. Only problem is the lock does not ignite the primer reliably. I lightened the frizzen spring, to no effect. Took a fine file to the face of the frizzen, also to no effect. It might fire three times in a row if I use a brand new TC synthetic flint, carefully mounted... but not always. Rarely does it fire twice in a row, no matter what I have done. At this moment, it will not fire at all, after cleaning and carefully installing a new flint.

Dry firing it in the dark reveals that few sparks make it to the pan. They go out to the side, as though the frizzen is deflecting them. I have a Lyman that fires reliably... in the dark, you can see that it's sparks go right into the pan.

I called Jim Chambers, and spoke with Mrs. C. She said they have heard that the Pedersoli locks are unreliable. They do not have a replacement lock for that model.

Anyone know of a good lock that would work in this rifle?

- MacEntyre
I would take pictures of the frizzen closed and cock at full, half, & fired positions and send them to Track of the Wolf and ask their help and replacement lock availability.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/185/1/FLINTS
Has a good picture directions on lock setup.
I did contact Pedersoli & C about a comedic issue and was please at the offer to exchange my lock.

[email protected] ([email protected])

DAVIDE PEDERSOLI & C.
Via Artigiani, 57
I-25063 GARDONE VALTROMPIA
(Brescia) Italy
ph. +39 030 8915000
fax +39 030 8911019
http://www.davide-pedersoli.com/guns-for-sale-pedersoli.asp?l=en
 
For Heavens Sake, get a Chambers gunsmith lock with the square plate and saw/file the plate to fit the gun with the pan ending in the right location. You may have to deepen some area of your lock mortise slightly, but this is not rocket science. And get a new trigger with an oversized trigger plate in case you have to adjust the trigger location slightly.
Hardly anyone who does lock repairs does it as a full time job and if they would, they would have to charge more than a quality replacement lock would cost.
All you need is a bench grinder, a file and a main spring vise to disassemble the lock without damage and a cheap set of carving knives. Some inletting black is helpful.
Time: 1 afternoon.
The problem with lock repair: if the original geometry of the lock was already screwed up, there are very few parameters that could be adjusted to fix it using the original parts. You can lighten and adjust spring tensions, and you may bend the cock, but that may improve the geometry only in one aspect and may make it worse in another.
Friend of mine bought a used Pedersoli without me knowing. He presented it to me and I told him right away that it is a flint eater. After tinkering with it for a while he agreed and got lucky and sold it to someone loosing only about $50. He got lucky, as for me these rifles are not worth the price of their barrels.
 
Does anyone know of a reliable lock that works as a replacement on the Pedersoli Kentucky long rifle?

I found a lightly used .45 and have enjoyed shooting it a lot. Only problem is the lock does not ignite the primer reliably. I lightened the frizzen spring, to no effect. Took a fine file to the face of the frizzen, also to no effect. It might fire three times in a row if I use a brand new TC synthetic flint, carefully mounted... but not always. Rarely does it fire twice in a row, no matter what I have done. At this moment, it will not fire at all, after cleaning and carefully installing a new flint.

Dry firing it in the dark reveals that few sparks make it to the pan. They go out to the side, as though the frizzen is deflecting them. I have a Lyman that fires reliably... in the dark, you can see that it's sparks go right into the pan.

I called Jim Chambers, and spoke with Mrs. C. She said they have heard that the Pedersoli locks are unreliable. They do not have a replacement lock for that model.

Anyone know of a good lock that would work in this rifle?

- MacEntyre

I would replace the frizzen and the mainspring .... you’ll need to fit them but it’s generally not worth buying a new lock for a factory gun.
 
I had a problem with poor sparking and e-mailed Pedersoli & they sent me a new frizzen. Problem cured!
 
Great ! And easy ! If that still doesn’t work ... your next step would be to tighten the mainspring or replace. Only other thing I can think is that sometimes factory gun flint hammers don’t drive far enough into the frizzen; you’d simply file down the hammer stop slightly to inrease the drive. I had to do that to a Zoli 1803.
 
Some replica flintlocks don't spark well because of bad lock geometry. I had a Harper's Ferry flint pistol that had the same problem .... actually, several of us bought those pistols at the same time and they all had the problem. Fortunately one of our guys was a good `smith. He changed the geometry of the hammers on each of them so that the flint struck the frizzen at a shallower angle. That particular hammer style is a double-throat, and what Dave did was very carefully saw cut the front throat -- having removed the hammer from the lock first, o'course -- and remove a sliver of metal, then heat it, carefully bend it to bring the cut surfaces together, and weld them that way. Fixed it right up! Any competent ML gunsmith can do that job for you. Of course if you can find a direct replacement lock and don't mind spending the money and it works, you're golden that way too. Good luck.
BTW: Please use 4Fg in the pan. It'll work better too.
Tanglefoot
 
Some replica flintlocks don't spark well because of bad lock geometry. I had a Harper's Ferry flint pistol that had the same problem .... actually, several of us bought those pistols at the same time and they all had the problem. Fortunately one of our guys was a good `smith. He changed the geometry of the hammers on each of them so that the flint struck the frizzen at a shallower angle. That particular hammer style is a double-throat, and what Dave did was very carefully saw cut the front throat -- having removed the hammer from the lock first, o'course -- and remove a sliver of metal, then heat it, carefully bend it to bring the cut surfaces together, and weld them that way. Fixed it right up! Any competent ML gunsmith can do that job for you. Of course if you can find a direct replacement lock and don't mind spending the money and it works, you're golden that way too. Good luck.
BTW: Please use 4Fg in the pan. It'll work better too.
Tanglefoot

YES AGREE 100%

I've had two bad flint locks from Euroarms an 1803 Rifle and another one from an Indian Gun Maker.

The 1803 didn't line up well between the throw of the Cock and striking the Frizzen, I had to file down the hammer stop and chaffer the tumbler so it wouldn't fall on half cock. Horribly designed Flintlock.

The Indian made musket I purchased was simply too soft in the internal parts, I was cleaning off iron dust from the timber and the the Sear Spring was not tempered right and snapped and the Frizzen had a carbon issue....
 
Thanks folks. No replacement locks or parts are available from Pedersoli. It's a 1977 rifle. They discontinued that lock. Also, no replacement locks are available. I could ask Lee Shaver to return it, so that I can try all the things ya'll have mentioned. However, every time I speak to him, he says he's going to get it done. I have other flinters, so it's kinda interesting now to see what eventually happens.
 
Thanks folks. No replacement locks or parts are available from Pedersoli. It's a 1977 rifle. They discontinued that lock. Also, no replacement locks are available. I could ask Lee Shaver to return it, so that I can try all the things ya'll have mentioned. However, every time I speak to him, he says he's going to get it done. I have other flinters, so it's kinda interesting now to see what eventually happens.

Lack Of already finishedreplacement parts Always complicates fixing a lock. You’re basically need to find cast parts and try to them not easy to do and end up being very costly. Paul Ackerman of Ackerman arms fixed my older miruko Bess tumbler. He does great work.

Nick
 
This is just a test
Does anyone know of a reliable lock that works as a replacement on the Pedersoli Kentucky long rifle?

I found a lightly used .45 and have enjoyed shooting it a lot. Only problem is the lock does not ignite the primer reliably. I lightened the frizzen spring, to no effect. Took a fine file to the face of the frizzen, also to no effect. It might fire three times in a row if I use a brand new TC synthetic flint, carefully mounted... but not always. Rarely does it fire twice in a row, no matter what I have done. At this moment, it will not fire at all, after cleaning and carefully installing a new flint.

Dry firing it in the dark reveals that few sparks make it to the pan. They go out to the side, as though the frizzen is deflecting them. I have a Lyman that fires reliably... in the dark, you can see that it's sparks go right into the pan.

I called Jim Chambers, and spoke with Mrs. C. She said they have heard that the Pedersoli locks are unreliable. They do not have a replacement lock for that model.

Anyone know of a good lock that would work in this rifle?

- MacEntyre
 
I am new to Muzzleloaders but am anxious to at least assist here if possible. I was watching that new Discovery show "Master at arms" and the Gun Smith had the same problem. What he did was weld a new piece of metal to the frizzen and id solved the problem. Is it possible to do that in this case without damaging the original Lock? It would be better than looking for non-existent parts.
 
The last third world production gun I bought (over 25 years ago) Was a Pedersoli piece. I bought it new from the good folks at Dixie Gun works.
I got 8 shots from the frizzen, and it went flying.
Pedersoli does NOT make replacement parts. So the good folks at Dixie custom made me a frizzen. Before I installed it I measured the frizzen spring tension, in stead of 12-15lb it was over 300lbs.

That was the last production gun I ever bought. In fact My EX asked for it in the divorce, and I gave it to her, after dumping 100s of dollars into it.

Go get a Chambers kit, and built it, and hang that one on the wall, or give it to someone you do not like.

IF you continue to work on it, it will turn you away from this firearms.

2005 I bought parts from Muzzle loader Supplies and along with a Chamber's Late Ketlend lock, the fastest lock made at the timer. Any part of this rifle is superior to any production gun period.
 
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