Replacement Frizzen

[kje54]

Some of you may remember I broke the frizzen on my H&A Minuteman a while back. I had put it to the side while I focused on other projects building "unmentionables".

I finally sent pictures and measurements to Track and they recommended using the Late Ketland frizzen. It arrived the other day and yes it will work but I'm having to do some mod work on it. The swivel is about a 16th of an inch too wide and the whole frizzen body it at least an 8th of an inch too wide. It's in the white and no hole drilled for mounting and I will have to harden it once I get it fitted.
Have the swivel point fitted, ground the casting gate off the face and did some grinding and filing on the sides of the cover. Here it is so far.\

 

[kje54]

This is a temp fix as I'm considering getting a Transitional Kentucky and Davis Jager lock setup from Pecatonica and mount the rest of the H&A hardware on it some time in the future. Funds allowing of course.

We've also figured out a classic or late ketland lock can be mounted on a Pedersoli Pennsylvania and Kentucky longrifles with relatively minor inletting.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Good job, you know the trick about shimming the frizzen before drilling the hole?

 

[kje54]

Good job, you know the trick about shimming the frizzen before drilling the hole?

No I didn't. What's that entail?

 

[Phil Coffins]

I read about this and the way I understand it it because the way the frizzen spring press against the frizzen that if the frizzen is clamped down and the hole is drilled then the clamp is removed and the spring acts on the foot of the frizzen the frizzen is lifted at the front and you get a poor fit. The cure is to place a thin shim at the fence side of the pan then clamp the frizzen down and drill the hole. This allows the frizzen to close more completely after assembly. Having assembled a few kit locks I know getting the fit right hasn’t worked completely by making very good flat surfaces and clamping the frizzen down for drilling. I haven’t had the opportunity to do this myself and feel it’s a reasonable way of doing it. I “think” I read this on ALR forum and there’s some very talented builders there.

 

[FlinterNick]

I would have had a copy of the old frizzen made.

 

[kje54]

I would have had a copy of the old frizzen made.

If it can be done quite cheaply then yes but if not it's really not worth it, these long arms don't fetch high prices.

 

[FlinterNick]

If it can be done quite cheaply then yes but if not it's really not worth it, these long arms don't fetch high prices.

25-40 dollars, cast in 6150 or 1095.

 

[kje54]

25-40 dollars, cast in 6150 or 1095.

If I'd known that before and knew where to have it done...... Oh well, this one will work until I get around to replacing the stock and lock. If it ever happens again I'll know to ask. Thanks.

 

[Flint Striker]

That’s great that you found a way to get that lock back to functional. The way things are right now, being able to reuse or repair anything is worthwhile.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

I sent my broken Pedo frizzen to DGW and they made one for me.

 

[Jason holgate]

That looks great nice job

 

[kje54]

This project has been on hold for a while now basically because I need to harden the frizzen. Having never done anything like that in the past I just put it to the side. Yes I did watch some videos and noted everyone talked about using hardening compound. Did a search and all I could find is compounds in somewhat to very large quantities and all I need is a very small amount for this job.